ford no spark
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ford no spark
Hey all. Ihave a problem w/my 87 Ford truck with a straight 6 in it. No spark I have replaced everything related, and still nothing. Also there is no power to the fuel pump at the same time of not having any spark. Can anyone help me figure this out.
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Info on pulling diagnostic codes:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=112293
I would also suggest doing a search of this site for "no spark" or "no start"...lots of stuff should pull up.
Are you sure that the fuel pumps aren't running...they should only run for two seconds or so after turning on the key.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=112293
I would also suggest doing a search of this site for "no spark" or "no start"...lots of stuff should pull up.
Are you sure that the fuel pumps aren't running...they should only run for two seconds or so after turning on the key.
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You might be right about the pump but I checked w/key on and did not register any power. That still does not explain no spark.
I thought there might be a relay or something that connects the two, to create a circuit. Which I am told it should have been the moduale. I do not have a code tester. But I haven't tried the key turn 3 times to see if something came up that way. You are about the only helping in a way. thanks I can use more info. if you have anymore
I thought there might be a relay or something that connects the two, to create a circuit. Which I am told it should have been the moduale. I do not have a code tester. But I haven't tried the key turn 3 times to see if something came up that way. You are about the only helping in a way. thanks I can use more info. if you have anymore
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First , you need to be more patient...its only been a few hours since you first posted this problem, and it really wasn't necessary to create 2 seperate threads.
Second, if you read thru some of the old posts you'll find that a no-start condition is a rather common ailment here...should get some good ideas on what to look for .......
Turning the key 3 times won't do a thing, and you don't need a code reader to pull codes....follow the link I provided...it details how to pull codes...
Second, if you read thru some of the old posts you'll find that a no-start condition is a rather common ailment here...should get some good ideas on what to look for .......
Turning the key 3 times won't do a thing, and you don't need a code reader to pull codes....follow the link I provided...it details how to pull codes...
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From: Louisiana
Under the dash, drivers side, just to left on the firewall there should be a little black box with a red button on top, see if it's tripped and reset it. This is the fuel pump inertia switch. I think it cuts the ignition also.
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Heres What I Found Guys. #1 It Took 3 Modules Before I Got A Good One. Dont Buy Any Electrical Parts From Autozone. One Lesson Learned The Hard Way.
#2 Before I Got A Good Module I Found I Had A Bad Map Censor, Which I Found Through Computer And Electical Diagrams Where It Was Linked To The Computer.
#3 Pulled Computer And Found A Small Burn Or Short In The Circuit Board.
#2 Before I Got A Good Module I Found I Had A Bad Map Censor, Which I Found Through Computer And Electical Diagrams Where It Was Linked To The Computer.
#3 Pulled Computer And Found A Small Burn Or Short In The Circuit Board.
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So, It Still Didn't Work W/new Computer And Map Censor. That When I Put My Old Module In And I Got Spark And Power Everywhere But The Timing Was Still Off Because The Module Was Still Malfuctioning, Thats With The Old One. Put New One In, Badddd. No Spark. Thrid One Was A Charm... Let Me Know If Y'all Need Details
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From: Wanatah In,
Originally Posted by JSPULLER
So, It Still Didn't Work W/new Computer And Map Censor. That When I Put My Old Module In And I Got Spark And Power Everywhere But The Timing Was Still Off Because The Module Was Still Malfuctioning, Thats With The Old One. Put New One In, Badddd. No Spark. Thrid One Was A Charm... Let Me Know If Y'all Need Details
Did you happen to have the parts store test your module? Did they say it was good, even though it was bad. how about the new ones that were bad?, did their machine say they were bad? Ive had some experiance in the past with hei modules that their machine said were good that were actually bad. Id rather not relive that again
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Cold tests on modules and coils are worthless - I took a look at the guide while the guy testing a module for me was looking for a lead and it had accuracy ratings for individual modules listed. They ranged from 37% to 54%. Electrical components expand when they heat up and connections can be broken during the expansion. That's why you get the old scenario where a car starts fine when it's cold and then dies when it warms up. As far as all of that stuff burned up on your truck - did anyone ever weld on it w/o ramoving the comp. or remove a cable while the engine was running? A burn inside an ECM is pretty unusual. Glad it's running now though.
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