hey, every once in a while my 94 f150 will just have a couple hardshifts in a row..somtime it'll keep doin it and somtimes it will just stop..i don't hink it needs a new transmission but it needs somthin done to it
any ideas???
FUELINJECTOR06

 

Dump the computer codes. Please do not just start changing expensive parts chasing this kind of problem.

Jim

 

mine shifts hard too. the whole truck jerks when it shift from 1st to 2nd and when it downshifts from 2nd to 1st. i don't know it could be. do you have to have a check engine light on to dump codes or does it matter? the guys at Autozone said that i had to have a check engine light on before they would pull codes

 

My truck has the same symptom on ocassion. I also have the torque converter shudder problem regularly now. I'm thinking that the two problems might be related but I am not certain. I purchased the truck 2 years ago with 84,000 miles on it. When the odometer turned 100,000 both of these problems seem to appear. Sometimes it will act up for several days but then everything will be okay for a week or two. I had the transmission serviced at the Ford dealership because they told me that sometimes will fix the torque converter shudder problem. However this didn't seem to help any. I am planning on replacing the torque converter in the next few weeks.

 

Guys, Let me help you both out:
(1) You both need to replace your old 1-2 accumulator piston with the newer style piston available from Ford, and also when you take it apart you will most likely find the lower spring in many pieces, you'll need to replace this spring too, most Ford dealers stock these parts because they know about the older ones failures.
My '94 did exactly the same thing is why I'm telling you about this, this is the same info (correct, I might add) that was supplies to me when I asked the same questions you guys asked.
Plus while you're in there change your fluid and filter including draining the converter, and spend the little extra money on a quality name brand Mercon V fluid at the same time, and I'm sure your hard shifts will be a thing of the past.

 

how much about trannys do you have to know to do this and where is the accumulator piston at

 

Is this a job that requires removal of the Transmission or is it accessable upon removal of the pan?

 

How much we talking for parts supercab? i'm with 95 blackF150 is there any good guides or anything that show how to do this. i have the chilton does it show how to do this?

 

Guys, You don't have to remove the transmission or the valve body to change the piston and spring.
I would suggest that you go to your local Ford dealer and ask for a new 1-2 accumulator piston (they don't sell the older style any more) and the LOWER spring.
Then go to your favorite parts store and buy 14 quarts of a name brand Mercon V fluid and a filter kit.
Then make sure you've got a GOOD set of snap ring pliers.
This all should cost around $75.00
Start by removing the pan, and filter, making sure the old "O" ring from the filter comes out with the filter, or make sure you dig it out.
Next drain the converter completely-they take a while.
Next you'll find the 1-2 piston and spring looking up at the bottom of the trans on the drivers side front, its a round kind of indented area where the piston is.
Carefully remove the snap ring-I SUGGEST WEARING SAFETY GLASSES JUST IN CASE IT SLIPS, slide ther piston out, you'll then see the broken spring in pieces, just remove the pieces, install your new spring, and piston-dip piston in fresh fluid, and using your original pan gasket (your pan is marked that gasket is re-useable) and torque to specs then fill trans-put in quarts then briefly start engine-run 15 seconds then shut down and add the balance of 14 quarts.
anything else I can help with please just ask,

 

If I drain the fluid from the torque conv. then how does the pump work?

 

Have you checked the codes like someone previously suggested? A malfunctioning MLPS will cause hard shifts too. There is a code for the MLPS - 634 if I remember correctly. Anyway had the same symtoms on my '94 and replaced the MLPS with the improved '95 model. Hard shifts vanished. Good luck.....Van

 

could it be my transmission fluid and screen need changed

 

Guys, I'm now seeing that one of you has an '88 and the other has a '94, this procedure that I have told you about is for the 4R70W automatic overdrive transmission, I'm sure thats what is in the '94 as mine is a '94, but not that sure about the type of auto od trans in the '88.
In any case its always worth a shot to change the fluid and filter when problems arise in these transmissions before letting someone talk you into a new or major rebuilt trans.
Also a couple of things to add from my post this morning:
Yes, its a good idea to pull your codes to see if anything shows up before you dig into trying these repairs.
And to remove/install the 1-2 accumulator piston you can/should use a small hydraulic "bottle" type jack....you should be able to gently push up the piston just enough to get the snap ring off, and upon re-assembly you'll definatly need the jack to help push the piston with the new spring up into its bore.
Also: word of warning: DO NOT ever add any type of transmission additive to these automatic overdrive transmissions, they will, if anything make whatever is going on worse, I have used a product called "Trans-X" for years with great results in lots of older 3 speed Ford automatics, but when I put in my 4R70W it really started acting weird and even slipped a little, so I got the idea that it was the Trans-X and drained the whole thing again and put in fresh fluid and everything has been perfect for over 6k miles now.

 

351ballsofford

there Full of bad pickles.

They are just being lazy Bas&^*@#$ds.
YOu can get codes no matter what. Some sensors dont tell you there getting a bad signal.

 

Can someone tell me the logic behind draining a torque converter. The pump in the tranny is powered by the engine so if the torque converter is empty then the coupling between the engine and pump is broken. So, if you drain the torque converter how does the pump refill it since it has no coupling? I hear many people draining the torque converter with the drain plug. Do I need to pump some back into it afterwards?