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i just got finished putting a 6 in superlift on my 82 f150 4x4 it has the i beam in the front and my caster is way off they want 250 to fix it at the shop and i just wanted to no where i could buy these part needed to fix it or anything i can do myself i don't have this kind of money to spend anyone help would be greatly appreciated
If you used drop brackets for the stock radius arms, it may not be possible to get the correct caster, at least without major $. The extended, tubular arms help correct this problem.
When I lifted my '95 F150 I had a problem with my camber. Just shelled out the ~$150 at Les Schwab and was through with it. But then again it was only 2" springs for the saggy front end. But the front end did look like \-o-/. Could be thinking about the wrong problem but oh well.
Good luck,
Mike
That is camber. looking at the tires from the front, where the tires lean in at the top or bottom. Caster is looking at the wheel from the side, in a vertical plane in relation to the axle. Zero caster is where the axle, balljoints and coil springs are straight up and down. It allows the steering to self-center. When this setting is way off, the coil springs will hit one of the shocks on the quad front set-up. The short, factory radius arms have a tendency to want to pull the axle underneath the truck, especially as you increase the coil height in a lift. Bad caster will wear out tires and steering components in a hurry if not corrected with the lift install.
Only thing i can think of is to move the radius arms & brackets forward. You can try new camber/caster bushings, but it may not have enough adjustment to help. If you don't have the longer arms already, they will help out since the leverage point is further back, and they are more level to the ground like the stock arms were before the lift. It requires careful measurement to relocate the mounting brackets so the axle is centered under the spring/shock towers. Not a cheap fix however you look at it.
is the top out farther than the bottom \--o-/ or is the bottom out more than the top /--o-\. the former of the two would be due to much spring lift w/o dropping pivot down. the latter of the two is due to saggy springs, which i have a fairly cheap solution to. i will describe the fix in detail if that is the problem you have and are intrested in it.
Idio,
Even if that is not Justin's problem I know I, and probably others, would like to know about your fix. I still have my 150 and I think it would be a good bit of knowlege for future reference if the need ever arises.
Thanks,
Mike
i took a 2x3x3 block of steel, i drilled a 7/8" hole all the way through it, and then a 1 and 3/8"??....i think...hol half was through it, in line with the 7/8 hole. both these holes were drilled through the 2" par of the block......ill draw a CAD drawling of it if you want....then i cut the stucd coming out of the axle that holds the spring in off half was and justed a cou[ler and a piece of all thread to extend them 2". the block should slid right over the coupler(7/8") and the 1 and 3/8 hold should sit nicely over the nut that the stud come out of. then you place the stock spring cup and assembly on top of that block and bolt it all together. everything cost me about 30$, and thats with the hardware. ive had this set up on my truck since september and it works really well. it levels the truck out with about 2" of lift in the front and brings the camber back to 90 degrees.
Ingenious, might want to make up the drawing up and put it in your gallery with your spacer drawings.
BTW what is a drawling, I thought that is how the people from the south talk.
Thanks,
Mike