Hey All,

I'm wanting to build a 2 car garage on my house sometime in the near future. I've no experience in this, so I'm wanting to see if anyone can give me a good idea of cost.

I want it to be roughly 24X24. Concrete slab. drain in floor. plumbing for sink. 110 wiring with at least 1 220 jack. about 3-4 jacks on each wall (whatever I can get away with and still be in code). Siding to match house. Attached to house with same roof line. panel only interior walls ( I have no problem hanging my own insulation and panelling).

I'm in TN by the way.

Basically, the way I want to pay for it is by refinancing my home. I know that the house appraises about $20,000 higher than what I owe on it. I would like to refinance the payoff of the house plus the cost of the garage and just pay for it all in my mortgage.

Anyone have any ideas?

 

Get some estimates from local contractors. Cost varies widely with location, terrain, codes, etc, etc.

 

My un-professional guess for a what this Garage will cost is between $6,000.00 & $8000,00.

 

I think Dennis is pretty close on the estimate. I'd budget $10K. I'd also recommend against the floor drain. Not because of problems with the drain but if you ever sell the first questions would be: 1, Where does that drain go? 2. What have you poured down it? Not saying that you would but why open that possiblity. Better to just slope the floor to the door.

 

I love the floor drain that I installed along with the concrete floor.

It just goes outside to daylight- well actually the end is buried under a few large 3/4 inch stone to keep the animals out. It just drains back onto the driveway.

We get large snow chunks that fall off the wheel wells in the winter and the floor drain keeps the garage floor from being a skating rink.

Don't know if its up to code- but it is nice.

 

At my last house, we built a garage/shop with a floor drain. The parking end floor all sloped to this drain area. It was something like 1 inch in 10 feet so it wasn't real noticable except when water and ice was running off the vehicle. This drain/sump didn't go anywhere and it was 16" by 24". Should have piped it out to the driveway but it was never a problem. Had to dig it out once in a while from all the dirt and sawdust that accumulated. If resale is an issue, just make sure you can fill the hole with a plate or concrete to get away from the questions. Not trying to hide anything, just don't want to explain how common sense works.

Bryan

 

Eric is right in checking with local contractors, and also check with local code.. Usually attached garage requires type x or firecode sheetrock, most places are doing away with floor drains unless you have a catch basin.. to keep oil, gas, antifreeze from getting into ground water. Do check with building dept. it's easier to work with them than against. Good luck, George

 

A little perspective for you... I built a 26'x34' two door garage in 2000. The BEST deal possible at the time in my area was $17k including the concrete. Believe me, I shopped around. I got just the basics, one side door and two garage doors. They did a great job. You MIGHT be able to do just the 24x24 w/o a foundation or slab for the kind of money they're talking....

 

I'd expect the low price estimates to be in the $20 a square foot range and go up from there.

Find a small contractor with 3 or 4 member crew that specializes in small additions -- they might be able to fit you in between jobs for a real reasonable rate. (Make sure the small crew has been in business for a long while -- every Tom,Dick and Harry is now contractor you get what you pay for)

 

I'm in Mass and have just calculated a 24 x 26, 2x6 framed, manufactured trusses, insulated, sheetrock, electrical, monothitic slab, 1 14' door, 1 36" entry door, vinal sided.

I'm at about $8500 for material, so if you are figuring labor also you would probably be in the $15-$20,000 range.

 

Dave, the garage you built I'm sure, had to be put together as I'm sure there isn't a kit for that size,or was there a kit available
for that size.
Special Truss, and amount of wooden frame plus, almost double the amount of concrete and finishing would be cost almost double.

I helped a guy build a stand alone garage 22x24 in 1999 and my friend even had finished the inside & out with one extra size door 12',complete for $9200.00 Cdn


At 4" thick that slab took about 9 cu meters of concrete & the average slab is 550 sq' using 5 1/2 cu meters.This is all without stub walls or apron.

My estimate was for a basic addition.

 

I don't know for sure, buy you might want to talk with your ins. rep. First to see if long term it might be cheeper to go unattched.

 

Hey Dennis, what does that concrete compute to in English units? We don't do Metric here.

 

There isn't much for Electrical code in garages cuz most people don't spend much time where they just park their cars & store the EXTRA JUNK!! Don't quote me on this cuz I"m in Phoenix & I can't find my code book but I do electrical work so here goes...

1 GFI PROTECTED OUTLET (3 car garage) & 1 LIGHT PER GARAGE DOOR (car) (( 3 way the lights for convienence) & 1 LIGHT OUTSIDE ANY SIDE DOOR (if added).

So basiccally go nuts on your electric, make it what you want where! Welders, air compressors, any specialty item like the others should be ran on 1 circuit for each Welders-- 30 amp (maybe 40amp) Air compressors ---min 15amp for small 1.5 hp 2 gal (20 /30 amp for any of the larger ones) Less problems on tools when they're seperate. If you have them items already, the sticker will tell you max draw, If not, go look at these items & find out max draw on the big/best one and run your wire to accommidate the best ( you can always use a smaller breaker on the wire but if your to small the smaller wire can only carry certain load). Your garage is mor than 100 sq ft so it must be permitted right so you'll have to submit structural plans (frame, truss, elec, exterior elevation (finish) roof) and each stage will be inspected. Its not near as hard as you think it will be to do as much as you can yourself ($WEAT EQUITY GOE$ A LONG WAY$ & $AVE$ YOUR WALLET FROM THAT NEVER ENDING HOLE). SO TO SAVE YOURSELF SOME MONEY START TALKING TO YOUR FRIENDS FOR BROTHERS/RELATIVES THAT WORK THE TRADES.. TELL THEM THE PAY IS IN PIZZA AND BEER. If you don't pass your inspection the inspector will tell you how to fix it. The concrete is something to have done by others and as for your drain it has to drop (min)of 1/4 in per ft. As for why/how with the drain, 1 put just inside the main garage door and say it is for the rain & melted snow. Also think about with drain in that location designing drain with like the 6-8 metal grill/grate that is removable for cleaning. Drywall is 5/8 for fire reasons. If you are going to spend alot of time during the winter in it go with the 2x6 wall for more insulation. Here is a big thing to remember THIS IS ONLY A GARAGE if it doesn't come out picture perfect that's okay as long as the roof & outside look good, you can tear out the inside and then have someone else do it correctly before you try to sell.



P.S. I just built a 9 x 10 (2x4 @16 o/c) shed off the side of my house with a 36 in door and rolled roofing & electric thru-out for only $3.00 (YES THAT IS NOT A TYPO $3.00) (the $3 is what it cost for me to make 2 copies of a key for the door) Granted this is not the garage that your talking about but my point is that if I have lived in my house for 8 yrs and practically gutted the inside, moved kitchen & hand built cabs, drop-in cooktop, wall oven & micro, moved living room with entertainment center built in wall, 18 x 8 ft patio/screenroom, 8 jet jacuzzi tub with tile walls, bath cabs hand built, new A/C unit, tile thru-out kitch-hall-bath and carpet in L/R and beds and have not spent $4000.oo in total, I've learned how to do some of these things myself and $AVED endless $$ and have also gotten good deals on a few things but I've also had the time. POINT I$ $WEAT EQUITY GOE$ WAY TO FAR!

 

ONE cubic yard of concrete at 4" thick will cover 80 sq ft.