Bad NEW rotor?????
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 73
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From: Baltimore, MD
Bad NEW rotor?????
Just got new rotors and pads. Put them both on and took it for a test drive. Shaking all over the place. Took one rotor off and put an old one back on, still shaking. Took the other off and put the other old one back on and it's fine. End result, new pads old rotors, no shake. I'm guessing the last rotor I took off is warped out of the box. Any way to tell before I take it back???
Thanks for the help
Eric
Thanks for the help
Eric
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,960
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From: All over Texas
Got a lathe? Probably not. A perfectly flat surface would allow you to check one side, but if they are as bad as it sounds, you might be able to "eyeball" it. Take it (them) back anyway. The parts store shouldn't give you any grief. They'll just send it back to the manufacturer.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 736
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From: Texas, USA
What brand was the new rotor? What brand and type was the new pad? Did you use a torque wrench to torque the lug bolts on the wheels after installation? Did you renew the lube on the caliper slides? Do you have a micrometer to measure roor thickness all the way around the pad contact area? Did you put ant-isieze on the shaft when mounting the new rotor?
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Baltimore, MD
I have no idea of the rotor brand. The pads are wagner. Yes, torqued the wheels....no didn't renew lube on caliper slides.....yes I have a micrometer and yes I put anti-sieze on. I don't think the lube had any bearing on the issue though since I was able to put the old rotor back on with good results.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2003
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yes even new rotors out of the box can be warped and require to be cut. if you have a micrometer you can measure a couple diffrent spots and see. also you might want to check your calipers this would also will eventually lead to the same problem of the shaking if the are sticking or froze.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 736
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From: Texas, USA
The reason for the lube question was binding between parts can cause incorrect alignment, even when torqued properly.
No new lube on the caliper slides can cause them to not contact squarely with the surface of the rotor, that can cause "skipping" or "hopping" of the pad on the disk, with either squeal, shaking or excessive uneven disk and pad wear, but it only occcurs while braking.
beyond this, I have no idea other than your first suppostion: bad rotor. I've heard local parts men (those not on commission sales) say that many rotors shipped from the far east are not good products. Maybe you have one. It you can take it back where yoiu got it. If not, take it to a machine shop and have it checked for roundness, weight, alighment and thickness. It could be that it was not ground to have parallel ffront and back surfaces, so there is a thick (heavy) edge and a thin (lighter) edge.
Hope this helps.
No new lube on the caliper slides can cause them to not contact squarely with the surface of the rotor, that can cause "skipping" or "hopping" of the pad on the disk, with either squeal, shaking or excessive uneven disk and pad wear, but it only occcurs while braking.
beyond this, I have no idea other than your first suppostion: bad rotor. I've heard local parts men (those not on commission sales) say that many rotors shipped from the far east are not good products. Maybe you have one. It you can take it back where yoiu got it. If not, take it to a machine shop and have it checked for roundness, weight, alighment and thickness. It could be that it was not ground to have parallel ffront and back surfaces, so there is a thick (heavy) edge and a thin (lighter) edge.
Hope this helps.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
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Best way to check is with rotors still on and spin them while checking runout using a dial indicator. Sometimes the problem is not the rotor itself but the way it's mounted to the hub. You can check this by 'clocking' the rotor (pull off, partially rotate and re-install with different holes lined up to different studs). This is why many recommend matchmarking the rotor to the hub prior to taking off and bringing to a shop for turning of rotor. By doing this you can reinstall in the exact same position it came off...at least that's the idea!
Last edited by Sturge; Mar 9, 2004 at 01:38 PM.
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 73
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From: Baltimore, MD
Sturge, that's a great idea. Can't believe I didn't think of that. By the way, I checked a few spots with my micrometer, no difference. I'll then runout and if that's not it, I'll just grab a new caliper.
Thanks to all.
Eric
Thanks to all.
Eric
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 327
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From: Midwest
Not at all uncommon to see 'new' rotors be warped. The shop I used to work at would always stick rotors on the lathe and check them for trueness prior to installation. When I asked someone from the rotor manufacturer about this, I was told that, especially with rotors shipped with studs installed, the rotors near the bottom of the pile can have a lot of weight on them, spread very unevenly, and even if the rotors are made true, they can be bent in transit. I think that's a crock...but...I've seen a lot of new rotors that were untrue.
Senior User
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Originally posted by easpilman
The rotor is fine and the dial indicator didn't fluctuate enough to cause my problem. Any other suggestions other than to go buy a new caliper?
Thanks again for all the help.
The rotor is fine and the dial indicator didn't fluctuate enough to cause my problem. Any other suggestions other than to go buy a new caliper?
Thanks again for all the help.