Rim Question
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2003
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Rim Question
Greets all,
Been a while
Busy.. You know.
Anyway, I'm looking to get new rims and tires for my money pit.
Back spacing is the amount the rim is pulled away from the frame? Right. Kinda confused on the terms.
The stock rims on there right now allow the tires to rub the spring on a hard turn, I want to correct this with the new rims.
What's a good back space number for a 01 F350? I would like to go up to either 36" or 38" tires with out losing more wheel crank.
16" or 17" rim?
Other than the technical part. Opions on what rim looks good on these pick ups. So many choices these days.
[Edit] I can get a great deal on American racing, I'd like to stick with those.
TIA
Been a while
Busy.. You know.Anyway, I'm looking to get new rims and tires for my money pit.
Back spacing is the amount the rim is pulled away from the frame? Right. Kinda confused on the terms.
The stock rims on there right now allow the tires to rub the spring on a hard turn, I want to correct this with the new rims.
What's a good back space number for a 01 F350? I would like to go up to either 36" or 38" tires with out losing more wheel crank.
16" or 17" rim?
Other than the technical part. Opions on what rim looks good on these pick ups. So many choices these days.
[Edit] I can get a great deal on American racing, I'd like to stick with those.
TIA
Last edited by Burr; Mar 8, 2004 at 08:09 AM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 6,245
Likes: 1
From: IL, USA
Backspacing is the distance from the mounting surface of the wheel to the lip on the backside. So, the more backspacing the farther the wheel is tucked in........the less amount of backspacing the more the wheel sticks out.
This pic shows how to measure backspacing on the backside of the wheel:
For a SD 4.5-4.625" is what is recommended.
The width of the tire and the width of the wheel will also play a part as to whether or not the tires will rub on the springs.
16" or 17" wheel depends on what tires you want to run now and what you might want to run later......for example 37" BFGs and 37-40" MT/Rs are only available for 17" wheels, but a lot of the 38" Interco tires aren't yet available for 17" wheels but are available for 16".
FWIW, many American Racing wheels are only warrantied up to a 32-33" tire. If you mount a larger tire on the wheel and have issues with the wheel they may not warranty them.
Most wheels available are lug-centric wheels. The stockers are hub-centric and there aren't many aftermarket lug-centric wheels....Weld is one of the companies that offer hub-centric wheels.
Hope this helps.
This pic shows how to measure backspacing on the backside of the wheel:
For a SD 4.5-4.625" is what is recommended.
The width of the tire and the width of the wheel will also play a part as to whether or not the tires will rub on the springs.
16" or 17" wheel depends on what tires you want to run now and what you might want to run later......for example 37" BFGs and 37-40" MT/Rs are only available for 17" wheels, but a lot of the 38" Interco tires aren't yet available for 17" wheels but are available for 16".
FWIW, many American Racing wheels are only warrantied up to a 32-33" tire. If you mount a larger tire on the wheel and have issues with the wheel they may not warranty them.
Most wheels available are lug-centric wheels. The stockers are hub-centric and there aren't many aftermarket lug-centric wheels....Weld is one of the companies that offer hub-centric wheels.
Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2003
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Awsome info bud 
I'm glad I asked, I was thinking backwards. I would of ended up with the tires hitting the springs while the tires were stright. lol
So the bigger tires although not available now in 17, they could be i the future, yes?
Hub centeric better?
Thanks
I'm glad I asked, I was thinking backwards. I would of ended up with the tires hitting the springs while the tires were stright. lol
So the bigger tires although not available now in 17, they could be i the future, yes?
Hub centeric better?
Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 6,245
Likes: 1
From: IL, USA
There still is a large selection of tires for 17" wheels in the 37-40" range like:
37-38" PJs, 37" BFGs, 37-40" MT/Rs, 39.5" Iroks, 39.5" STS, 38" SSRs, 37" X-terrains, 37" MT Radial Claws, 37" Dick Cepek F-C II, 37" Bogger, 44" STS, 49" Iroks etc...
But no 38" TSLs or STS for 17" and the new 38" Baja Claw Radial is only for 16" and 18" wheels.
Some of the other tires may come out in 17s as well, but I can't say for sure that they will.
Hub-centric centers the wheel on the hub and all the weight is supported by the hub. That's how the stock wheels are designed.
Lug-centric centers the wheel by the lugs and all the weight is supported by the lugs. Many do run lug-centric without any issues though.
Hope this helps.
37-38" PJs, 37" BFGs, 37-40" MT/Rs, 39.5" Iroks, 39.5" STS, 38" SSRs, 37" X-terrains, 37" MT Radial Claws, 37" Dick Cepek F-C II, 37" Bogger, 44" STS, 49" Iroks etc...
But no 38" TSLs or STS for 17" and the new 38" Baja Claw Radial is only for 16" and 18" wheels.
Some of the other tires may come out in 17s as well, but I can't say for sure that they will.
Hub-centric centers the wheel on the hub and all the weight is supported by the hub. That's how the stock wheels are designed.
Lug-centric centers the wheel by the lugs and all the weight is supported by the lugs. Many do run lug-centric without any issues though.
Hope this helps.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 196
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From: Chicago
Isn't there something about changing the backspacing being bad for the bearings? Someone once told me that moving the spacing out more than a little (such as those dual wheel kits which fit standard non-dual designed axles) will change the whole geometry and cause excessive wheel bearing wear?
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 6,245
Likes: 1
From: IL, USA
Right, the less backspacing you have the more stress is applied to the wheel bearings and other front end components. Wider wheels like 12" and 14" wide wheels also place more stress than say a 8" or 10" wide wheel.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Ventura County, CA
Burr,
Are you certain that with a 4" lift either a 36" or a 38" tire will fit? I guess I could see (maybe) the 36"r, but the 38???
Just an after-thought; please excuse if you've already taken it into consideration...
Are you certain that with a 4" lift either a 36" or a 38" tire will fit? I guess I could see (maybe) the 36"r, but the 38???
Just an after-thought; please excuse if you've already taken it into consideration...
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2003
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SO, none of the rims I like have more than a 4.5 inch back spacing. The stock rims are 4.5 I just yank one off to check.
Sooo.... How bad is it to use those wheel spacers?? <cringe>
Hey Daryl,
I think it'll be OK. There are 315 on there now and the converts to 34s, I measured 8 inches of wheel well clearance on the edge, so I think its OK. Thats in the front, the rear has gobs of it.
Sooo.... How bad is it to use those wheel spacers?? <cringe>
Hey Daryl,
I think it'll be OK. There are 315 on there now and the converts to 34s, I measured 8 inches of wheel well clearance on the edge, so I think its OK. Thats in the front, the rear has gobs of it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,438
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From: IN FRONT OF YOU
Just a tid bit here, you will find NOBODY who will tell you that 38"s will fit on a truck with ONLY a 4" lift UNLESS you plan on carving out your wheel wells and even then they will be tight.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
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Dag nabit! You sure? I got pics of the truck in my gallery. Theres a lot of travel there.
34" to 38" is only 2" top and 2" bottom more right? Or did I get that wrong too.
I 'spose I could always just get a 3" body lift.
Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 6,245
Likes: 1
From: IL, USA
I have a 4" lift and 35" BFGs as well and they rub pretty good off road flexing the suspension......clear on the street fine.
If you want to run a 38" tire with a small lift I have seen the skinny 38" TSLs (I think 12-13" wide) run on stock wheels under a 4" lift before...........but if you leave the street or take a hard turn into an incline you'll hit the fenders pretty good.
The only way to run a 38/15.5 tire with a 4" lift would be to add cut-out flares or fiberglass fenders and bedsides.
With a 4" lift a 35" PJ on a 10" wide wheel would fill out the wheel well area a little bit better.
BTW, I noticed your gallery says your in IL, what area of IL are you in
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,438
Likes: 11
From: IN FRONT OF YOU
The clearance from the top of the tire to the top of the wheelwell isn't important area, it's from the lowest corner of the wheelwell behind the front tire.
This is a pic of mine with 8" and 38's and there wasn't to much room there. Maybe on smooth blacktop, but just turrning in to a driveway that has a slight incline, it would get in to the sheet metal.
For anybody who can't figure this out, I put this pic in my gallery to show how close they are and NOT BEACAUSE IM TRYING TO SAY THE DO FIT.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
This is a pic of mine with 8" and 38's and there wasn't to much room there. Maybe on smooth blacktop, but just turrning in to a driveway that has a slight incline, it would get in to the sheet metal.
For anybody who can't figure this out, I put this pic in my gallery to show how close they are and NOT BEACAUSE IM TRYING TO SAY THE DO FIT.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Last edited by Yeti; Mar 9, 2004 at 03:56 PM.