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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Engine not turning off.

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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 08:52 PM
  #1  
64_f100_owner's Avatar
64_f100_owner
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From: Gresham, OR
Engine not turning off.

I am not sure where this fits, but here is a new problem I am having.

I went to turn the key off and the engine keeps running, until the fuel in the carb runs out. I am not sure what is causing this.

Anyone have any ideals?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 10:00 PM
  #2  
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motorcyclist
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64,

What motor do you have?

Is it dieseling, or just not cutting your ignition?
Also it sounds like you must have an electric fuel pump?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 11:49 PM
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64_f100_owner's Avatar
64_f100_owner
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From: Gresham, OR
My '64 has a 302 with '78 or '79 ignition and a electric fuel pump. I am not sure what other componet I have and what year.

When I turn off and remove the key, it keep running like normal.
 

Last edited by 64_f100_owner; Mar 2, 2004 at 11:52 PM.
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Old Mar 3, 2004 | 05:47 AM
  #4  
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jowilker
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
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Your timing is likely too high. Back it down a scounch. Put it in gear and turn off the key at the same time that will kill it.

John
 
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Old Mar 3, 2004 | 08:49 AM
  #5  
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5.0L 44GPW
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From: Mtn Home ID
If the engine runs like normal until it runs out of gas you likely have some sort of electrical feedback from either the alternator or poss. a electric fan
 
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Old Mar 3, 2004 | 01:11 PM
  #6  
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64_f100_owner
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I have also noticed that every once in a while my voltage drops and the gen light comes on when driving down the road. Another thing is when I disconnect the battery when the engine is running the truck dies.

I am not sure if all of these issues are linked together.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2004 | 07:08 PM
  #7  
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markpratt
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From: Northern California
Here's a test to do... I ran into something like this after I installed a Painless Wiring Kit... the dumb thing would not shut off... The tech there suggested pulling the lead to the "I" terminal on the regulator to see if the engine would stop. I tried that and it did, so he suggested going to Radio Shack, of all places, and picking up a rectifier diode, part no. 276-1661 and installing it inline with the wire to the "I" terminal.

It was a quick and cheap fix... cost me about $5 and it worked like a charm. Basically there was a bit of feedback just as 5.0L 44GPW mentioned above...

hope this helps
 
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