Fix/upgrade Air conditioning
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Fix/upgrade Air conditioning
My 86 F150 has factory air, but it hasn't worked in years. It was disconnected when it had abnormally high pressure, it was believed to be a clogged orifice tube, as I recall. But it was never fixed, or even varified that it was the problem. Anyway, this spring I'd like to get it fixed, and I might as well upgrade to R134 because I'm gonna have to go through it anyway. I'm sure it needs more by now.
So how should I go about figuring what it needs? I could always dump it at a shop and pick it up a week and a grand later, but I'd rather not. Maybe if I can get someone to look at it for free? Lots of shops seem to have special offers like that in the spring.
Could I install all the new parts I need and just have someplace charge it up? I can get the parts from napa at employee price. i don't see why I can't do that, could I?
Thanks for any ideas.
So how should I go about figuring what it needs? I could always dump it at a shop and pick it up a week and a grand later, but I'd rather not. Maybe if I can get someone to look at it for free? Lots of shops seem to have special offers like that in the spring.
Could I install all the new parts I need and just have someplace charge it up? I can get the parts from napa at employee price. i don't see why I can't do that, could I?
Thanks for any ideas.
Last edited by nickmobile67; Mar 2, 2004 at 07:25 PM.
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From: northwest,sc
I am gonna be going through those same things with my 82 this spring only it has dealer installed air.
The previous owner said the belt idler went bad and he took the belt off and it hasn't been used in years.
I have got to find out how this thing works.
The previous owner said the belt idler went bad and he took the belt off and it hasn't been used in years.
I have got to find out how this thing works.
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My '85 has factory air, but it didn't work. I have a friendd who looked at it for me and we upgraded it to R-134 and it works wonderfully now. All that we did was replace all of the O-rings in all of the connections (you might be able to clean out the orifice at this point), vacuum out all the air for about 30-45 minutes to get all of the water out of the system and put in several cans of R-134 with the oil. We didn't even drain the compressor oil before hand. My friend does have the refrigeration pressure guages to monitor pressures so I don't know if this is something that a person can do without those guages and the vacuum pump (an old refrigerator compressor by the way).
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'85 F-250 XLT 4x4 with 460 and 4-spd manual
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'85 F-250 XLT 4x4 with 460 and 4-spd manual
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Well, I work at napa so I can get the parts, and my cousin works at a used car shop where they have all the 134 equipment, but thier usually pretty buisy. I'm sure if I provide the 6 pack we can do it on a sunday over there.
Don't you have to change the dryer and stuff too? I know the valves are different on the compressor. Plus what about the old lines? They could be junk by now.
Don't you have to change the dryer and stuff too? I know the valves are different on the compressor. Plus what about the old lines? They could be junk by now.
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On the conversion kit that I got from my local auto parts store, I didn't need to change anything. I changed it over a year ago and havn't had any problems with it. I was able to get the cold air at about 2K RPM to be around 40 degrees.
Yes, there is a chance that the lines are toast. The vacuuming of the system and making sure it holds a sable vacuum for about 30minutes to an hour should tell you if you have a leak or not.
Yes, there is a chance that the lines are toast. The vacuuming of the system and making sure it holds a sable vacuum for about 30minutes to an hour should tell you if you have a leak or not.
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Darkraven, did you change your accumulator/filter dryer? I hear it is recommended to do, but also not many people do it. I can get a new accumulator for about $30, should I just go ahead and change it?
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Nope, I didn't change anything other than the O-rings and put in the R-134. The only thing that a person might do is drain the existing oil out of the pump, but I don't think you need to replace anything else.
Although, $30 is a good price for one, and if you hear its recommended, it might be a good idea.
Although, $30 is a good price for one, and if you hear its recommended, it might be a good idea.
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From: Crosby.Tx
first off don't fix the orfice tube just get a new one at oriellys for like 5 dallors and for tose of you i or near houston go to south texas truck air for your hoses .
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Yea, I was planning on replacing the orifice tube. At napa it was 4.95. They can also get the hoses for about $30 each, and the accumulator for $30. There is only 2 hoses I think, but they listed 4 different ones. The compressor spins by hand, but I hear if the compressor was starting to go it may be what clogged the orifice tube. I was hoping to do this cheap, but the more I look into it the more I see it may cost me.
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Do it yourself because in the long run you will learn about servicing your A/C and you have the tools already.
Get a new accumulator, orifice tube, o-rings, always flush the A/C system. Do a vacuum test for 50 minutes. Never leave any hose or connection open afterwards after you have done a vacuum test.
Put a new charge. R-12 is colder than R-134a. There are alternative to R-12, like Red-Tek http://www.redtek.ca/win_12a_prod.html
Duracool http://www.duracoolusa.com/category.html?UCIDs=1052200
Freeze 12 http://www.freeze-12.com/
If some of them requires you to have the EPA certification, you can get your EPA 609 certification from an online test at http://www.epatest.com/
I got my certification through them
Get a new accumulator, orifice tube, o-rings, always flush the A/C system. Do a vacuum test for 50 minutes. Never leave any hose or connection open afterwards after you have done a vacuum test.
Put a new charge. R-12 is colder than R-134a. There are alternative to R-12, like Red-Tek http://www.redtek.ca/win_12a_prod.html
Duracool http://www.duracoolusa.com/category.html?UCIDs=1052200
Freeze 12 http://www.freeze-12.com/
If some of them requires you to have the EPA certification, you can get your EPA 609 certification from an online test at http://www.epatest.com/
I got my certification through them
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Ok, but how do I check for leaks? and even better, how do I do my own vacuum test? I've heard people making them out of old refrigerator motors, but I don't have one handy! I don't usually keep old refrigerators lying around. LOL!
I just assume change to 134, although the r12 works better.
I just assume change to 134, although the r12 works better.
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have you heard of freeze 12? It replaces the r12 and cools just as good. Vacuum pumps are around $200 for a cheap one last time I checked. if the system is closed now, and has anything in it, you can put a can of dye in it that you can get at an auto parts store. Where I work, we pull a vacuum and then put nitrogen into the system to check for leaks, but that isn't something you can do at home
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