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I have a 1990 F-250 460 CI 4X4. Does anybody know which 2 wires I should pot the voltage meter to in order to check the voltage on the O2 sensor? My manual shows only 2 wires and on my truck there are 4. 1 black, one gray, and 2 white. Thanks- Anthony
PS Are there any tricks for getting the harness off? It's above the drivetrain. I can get my hands on it, but I can't get a grip.
When you test O2 sensor voltage, you should test with the sensor plugged into the harness. Backprobe the harness to get readings. One wire should have 12V with the ignition on, and two should be grounds, and the one that is left sends the signal to the computer. It should bounce between about .3V to .7V with the engine warmed up and idling.
Thanks for posting back. I'll try the gray wire first. Also, should I replace the O2 sensor, if needed, with the Ford replacement part ($100) or major name brand (like Bosch at $50)? Thanks- Anthony
Last edited by atlstnspc1; Mar 3, 2004 at 03:33 AM.
My truck has 125000 miles on it and I am pretty sure the O2 sensor has never been changed, but i don't notice any of the symptoms you described in your response EPN
lexluthr69/EPNCSU2006:
THANK YOU!!! If I had spent an extra $50 for the same part I would have had a stroke!
deananthony:
MY code scanner gave me a code 41, which is an O2 sensor problem. Here is something else, I don't know if it is related, I hope somebody can tell me. I adjusted the timing to 10 Deg BTDC just like the book says, SPOUT wire disconnected. During the last part of the engine on portion of the test the timing should advance to 30 Deg BTDC for 2 minutes, but only advances to about 22 Deg BTDC. Could a bad O2 sensor retard the advancement? Thanks- Anthony
Last edited by atlstnspc1; Mar 3, 2004 at 12:47 PM.
Someone else said they got the same advance as you did when they checked the timing after the test. I think 30 is just a rough estimate, and basically it's just to allow you to check that the computer can control the timing, which it sounds like it is doing.
deananthony, your O2 sensor may still be good if you still have good fuel mileage and no codes.
No. I'm checking what my code scanner called out. What tools/meters would I need to check the fuel pressure and regulator?
BTW I checked the voltage across the O2 sensor and got a big fat zero, so off to the parts store I go. I don't mind spending the $50, I just want this fixed.
I changed the O2 sensor and the truck is still running like heQQ.
The engine check light came on while driving back from the parts store, but went out after a few minutes. I then changed the sensor and cleared the codes. I'll check the fuel pressure and regulator next. Thanks- Anthony
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