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I have a 1985 Ford Econoline 150 Van, with a 302 Engine.
The blower motor quit working, so I replaced the fuse. It worked great for about 2 miles and then quit. The fuse required is a 35 amp. I replaced with a 32A Caue I didn't have a 35. When it quit working again, I figured the fuse was too small. I took out the 32A and the end of the fuse has a drop of solder on it. The metal in the middle did NOT break. [They are glass tube fuses].
I finally replaced the fuse with the one it is rated for and the blower worked again. However, I was suspious because of the other fuse. When I got out of the van I checked the fuse and dang near burned my finger off!! I pulled the fuse and it is now sitting on the floor of my van.
Where do I go from here? I don't have a meter to test the wiring. I know I have a short, but is it in the fuse block or is the blower motor bad? This just started. All electrical systems are good on this van. I have owned it since June of last yr.
Well, if it ran for a while that means it's a draw problems as oppsed to a direct short. A direct short would blow instantaneously.
You might have to do some checking of the heater motor or the resister in the heater plenum.
Also look for a wire that could intermittently touche ground.
Where exactly is the blower motor on this van? I thought it was standard. The blower motor is usually on the left side of the engine compartment. It isn't there on this one. I know what a blower motor looks like and have replaced several. It is on the left firewall on my husband's Ford Ranger, but it isn't there on my van!!
Is it possible that the motor is inside the van? Under the passenger side dash maybe?
Most likely that fues that you said was 32A is actually a 32 volt fuse of some other amp rating. If you look at that fuse again you will probably see a V beside the 32 instead of an A. Most automotive fuses are rated for a maximum of 32 volts. I am going to have to agree with the person that posted and says that your fuse holder is probably not tight. See if you have a tight fit on the fuse holder before you go through the trouble of changing the blower motor only to find that the fuse still get hot.
That fuse is a BUSS brand 35 amp fuses rated for a maximum voltage of 32 volts. The AGC indicates the length and diameter I believe or maybe the characteristics of the fuse (slow blow, fast blow, etc.)
Originally posted by Franklin2 I also agree, you have a problem in your fuse holder, fuse box, or fuse box connection in the back of the fuse box.
Now that everybody agrees except me, HOW DO I FIX IT??????
Why would the fuse box suddenly start doing this. I have had NO problems until the blower stopped working. I tightened the holder and the fuse still got hot!!
The heat in the circuit is generated by resistance. The resistance can be caused by a loose or corroded connection. I would pull the whole fuse box loose, and check the wiring directly behind the problem area. You may find the wiring and the fuse box itself may be melted.