Here we go, Ford over timing chain issue SOHC!!!! Help!!
would someone make this real clear for me??? if i have the tensioner noise and fix it right with the complet kit is it done for good or will the cam chain tensioner noise come back?????????????????????????????????????????????? ????????????????????????????????
Originally Posted by dogman
Yes, over time and mileage it will go out again. BUT it should be 30,000 or more miles. If you Just did it? NO
98 Rangers don't have the SOHC engine. They didn't get it until 2001.
-Larry
-Larry
Originally Posted by silvermaxd
I have a '98 Ranger,4.0L with the start-up rattle(when its cold out) and although it runs fine and I hate having any dealership goofballs under my hood I'm concerned about this becoming a "big" problem. I have 50k miles on it at the moment.
If anybody has a copy of the ONP letter or know where to get one I would much appreciate it.
Steve
If anybody has a copy of the ONP letter or know where to get one I would much appreciate it.
Steve
I have a personal theory about Tensioners, no matter where they are.
If they are touched, they get replaced. Period. If something causes me to look at it it's done for
-Larry
If they are touched, they get replaced. Period. If something causes me to look at it it's done for

-Larry
Originally Posted by Hseries
Wolgie.......Good question! Not all that familiar with the 4.0L. But, if he had that area tore apart and had access to all three tensioners, he had darn better make sure they were up to spec, and replace them as needed with your permission, if that is what you asked him to do. What is written on the service order? Does it differ from what work you asked him to perform? I had Westway replace a timing gear & chain on my 88 Ranger 2.9L years ago and while he was there I had the water pump replaced also. Brainless idiot forgot to change the timing gear! DOH!! They had to tear it down again and replace it free of charge along with a rental for another day. Sounds like W e s t w a y F o r d ? or S k y l i n e F o r d ? Is it? Tell me now, so I can stay far away from them.
I would like to follow up on my post, my tensioners are fine as of now after a very pricey fix, Although there are about 5 other issues with my explorer that I would like to talk to ford about like the driver side seat belt button not working, same as my parents 96, the door lock not opening without banging on it, the shift indicator that stopped working, and many more. This car is a hoopty, and I feel like Jed Clampit driving it around. Every little thing that breaks is $100 plus dollars to fix. Take my advice buy an expedition or a honda but don't buy this piece. Especially the SOHC model. As soon as mine starts rattling again, and it will, you will find it parked in the showroom at my local ford dealer (without there permission and through the largest window I can find). Enjoy!!! while you can
Originally Posted by wolgie
Well I just got back from the dealer, It was the middle timing chain tensioner, the center lower one.
Here's some diagrams below for everybody.
BTW, It seems Ford's MO is to keep Customers AND their own Dealerships CONFUSED on this subject so KNOWONE can get their Terminology straight.
My 98 4.0SOHC has this "Diesel-like rattle" also. Even AFTER having the 00M12 Recall performed.

Last edited by Racerguy; Dec 21, 2005 at 08:51 AM.
Originally Posted by GizmosStang
Rear Chain Assy can't be changed in vehicle as there is a jack shaft plug (similar to older engine Cam Plug) on the rear of the engine inside the bolt circle for the transmission... Oh and Ford Dealers will have all sorts of fun tracking down the correct timing parts for the job, and if you get luckier than I did they might be able to find bearings...
I hear you can drop the transmission to get to the rear chain tensioners. Is this true ??
I bought my 97 Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC used with 29k on it. My Dad had the same model as me but was at 40k. We both developed the noise, brought it in to the dealer and had the guides and upper tensioner replaced under warranty. Everything was fine for the next 100K, when the noise came back randomly when started, but disapeared after truck heated up. I brought to dealer, who told me if the upper tensioner, $400, if lower tesioner, the motor had to be removed and it would cost $2,000. I tried substitiuting one quart with marvel Mystery Oil, which eliminated the noise for 10k, but it came back, so I traded in For a 05 Explorer when they had the sale this summer, but I went with the V8 this time due to stories I heard from other people that Ford still had not totally fixed the timing tensioner problem. I think the 4.0 SOHC was a good motor, except for the tensioners. I never had any other proplems in My 97, it gave good gas milage, power (towed a boat) and was quiet. Too bad Ford does not step up and fix the problem.
Hello - new to this site and conversation and just have to say this is scarier than the Shining! Especially if you have a '98 Ford Explorer 4.0L SOHC like me (105K miles) ... what I am experiencing is a serious starting problem whenever the temperature drops to 60 degrees or less. The vehicle DIES 5-6 times and runs really, REALLY rough. Not just an "engine noise" but serious shakes. I don't experience this starting problem when it's warmer out. Also, after engine has warmed up, vehicle runs great. I had heard from somebody that my problem was that I needed a new oxygen sensor, which I replaced, but that didn't fix it.
Does rough starting in the morning in cooler weather fit the profile of cam chain tensioners or does it sound like I have more of a "tune-up" related issue?
Interested in hearing more from you guys.
Thanks!
Does rough starting in the morning in cooler weather fit the profile of cam chain tensioners or does it sound like I have more of a "tune-up" related issue?
Interested in hearing more from you guys.
Thanks!
Cam chain tensioners won't cause rough running on start-up. At least not wothout making so much noise you think the world is about to end.
Your symptoms are fairly classical; I'd make a wild guess without more information that your problem is vacuum leak(s) in the intake system. Most likely it's the intake manifold gaskets but could also be a rotted out vacuum hose or bad hose joint, or the gasket at the base of the |IAC valve. Could be just about anywhere on the intake system in fact.
Buy yourself a can of throttle body cleaner or carb cleaner from the parts store and, with the engine cover removed and the engine running, gently squirt shots of cleaner around ALL of the hose connections, IAC and down by the intake manifolds one at a time and stop to listen after each one.
When you shoot some cleaner next to a leak the motor will speed up slightly as it sniffs the cleaner into the intake.
Your symptoms are fairly classical; I'd make a wild guess without more information that your problem is vacuum leak(s) in the intake system. Most likely it's the intake manifold gaskets but could also be a rotted out vacuum hose or bad hose joint, or the gasket at the base of the |IAC valve. Could be just about anywhere on the intake system in fact.
Buy yourself a can of throttle body cleaner or carb cleaner from the parts store and, with the engine cover removed and the engine running, gently squirt shots of cleaner around ALL of the hose connections, IAC and down by the intake manifolds one at a time and stop to listen after each one.
When you shoot some cleaner next to a leak the motor will speed up slightly as it sniffs the cleaner into the intake.






