Alright, i busted this bad dude out.
What you have to do is take off part of the dash, and the pannel for the fuse box.

Take a star bit and take off the controlls for the lights and winshield wiper. 4 bolts.
unplug them both, so you can get them outa the way.
Under the dash, push down the ebrake, and up by where the ebrake release handle is, there is a star bolt thats black. unscrew that, its about 1 inch long.
Then reach in from where the light switch would be and pull it out. there is 1 plug to unplug and its an easy one to do.

There you have it out!
2 screws to open it up.

its easier then you think to reinstall.
It fits right into place when you get it down there. really easy to line up the hole too.



For fixing it, Mine had 4 bad solders, i just resoldered them. and i'm praying they will work, I coudln't test cause i had to fix a bad part in the bracket for the drivers side winshield whiper.
will reply when i test to see if my delay and such works.

 

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thought i would refresh this thread, since i just went through this issue...

after replacing my poorly functioning wiper motor with a used one, i still had the same symptoms : wipers stalling and then re-starting whenever they wanted to. i thought that i might have had the mis-fortune of installing a bad used wiper motor, but then when i heard a buzzing coming from under the dash when the wipers failed (this buzzing didn't occur EVERY time they failed by the way, only occasionally) i knew i had to do some research.

it seems this is a pretty common problem with this generation. mounting the wiper control module right close to the e-brake was not a good idea, and i understand that they corrected it on later models by mounting it over near the glove box.

when i got the module out and in my hands i couldn't find any broken solder connections. there was a bit of rust on the surface of 2 solder joints, which i scraped away with my fingernail but i seriously doubt that was the issue. the black pigtail connector going to the main harness seemed a bit easy to remove, so a weak connection there might have been the issue, but i also noticed that the wiper switch has it's own ground wire running to a point down lower under the dash (the switch and bracket are just bolted to plastic, so this ground wire is important). i removed this and cleaned it all up and put things back together. after multiple tests in all positions i couldn't get the wipers to fail so i am keeping my fingers crossed that the problem was solved by an improved ground and/or pigtail connection.

p.s. the control module can by pretty hard to find under there ... much easier to locate if you just follow the wiring with your hand from the switch ... keep going until you feel a small plastic box. when i got mine out it was marked "do not drop" ... good humour by ford.

 

God I love this site. Thought my switch was bad and replaced it with another from a junked truck and had the very same problem. Off to find this black box

 

man anyone got the picture of this, i gotta turn my wipers off at the exact moment i want them to park as they just shut off no matter where they are when i turn them to off.

 

Got mine out today, the silver h piece had come loose, so I resoldered, and it worked for 30 seconds, but then stopped completely. I opened the box back up and everything seems connected still. Does anyone know if with this box, I should order a wiper switch with intermittent wipers, or without them?



Maybe the switch I purchased was incorrect, since Oreilly’s has two options??

 

if you are using the intermittent wiper module, you need an intermittent wiper switch. the module will not work with a regular wiper switch.

 

Thanks! After replugging everything back in, I have low and high working, but no motion with the intermittent section. I am wondering if there is a bad resistor on the circuit board inside the black box. Does anyone have the electrical schematic for the intermittent wiper box? Thanks!!