Howdy, I own an 89 BII. Its got a 2.9 ltr engine manual 5speed and its 4wd (on the floor). I recently got a 4'' suspension lift kit installed and put on some 31's. I would love to add some of those electric or hydraulic Diff. Lockers. I have no idea about drivetrain and am in need of KNOWLEDGE. i recently discovered that the stock b2's came with some sort of limited slip in the rear. (i think not sure). And it has a Dana 28 in the front that lists as (part time), what does part time mean? Anyways i would like to add some lockers to front or back but prolly not at the same time due to MONEY. What would you recommend and when you install lockers can u change the ratio of gears or is that part of the locker. im clueless. plz help
thx bronco2 owner in need of power and traction.

 

Part time means that it is part time Four wheel drive. There are alot of vehicle that is full time four wheel drive. Meaning that it is always in 4 wheel drive. Part time means you have the option to shift it in 4 wheel whenever you need it.
Yes some Bronco IIs came with limited slip in the rears. This is only posi rears-not the same as a locker. Lockers are a lot better off road than on road. The lockers are totally seperate from the gear change. If you are going to go to lower gears, I would suggest doing the lockers with the gear change being that you are already in there and have everything apart. Might as well kill 2 birds with 1 stone.

 

Thank you for your reply. Great information, Another question.. I dont have enough money to do everything at once, so where should i start if im going to add only 1 locker at a time..Since i have some sort of posi trak in the back should i add lockers to the front? THe back or front first? also when i order the lockers, it doesnt have anything to do with the gears???? Are the gears in the lockers???? If i change the gears in the back do you have to do the front to or what? plz help.
thx!

 

The lockers go in between the gears itself. To learn more about differentials and axles check this out:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/four-wheel-drive.htm

When you change the gears, you ALWAYS do both the fronts and the rears. If you don't, you are going to have a lot of problems from axles to the transfer case.
Lockers are for a more positive traction and is needed for serious off roading. I would go with gears before any lockers. If you are going to go with lockers one axle at a time, it depends on the driver and how the driver wheels. Some think more up front is needed and others think more in back is needed. There are alot of off roaders that go wheeling without any lockers at all.
I really didn't think I need lockers being that I had a limited slip diff. But I am going to add a locker in the rear pretty soon. Keep in mind there can be driveabillity issues if this is going to be your daily driver. The rear axle won't be able to compensate for turning and might knock or hop a little when turning. I would go with gears and off road and see what you think.

 

thx alot youve been of great help!

 

OKay i have 31 10.50's size tires on the b2 right now. Id like to put 33 12.50's on it what ratio gears am i looking at? id like somthing that will work with both cuz the 31's have alot of tread on em atm. What kind of price range am i looking at when buying gears and is it somthing i could o myself>?
thx and gig em.

 

If you are going to lock the front and back and put 33" tires, I wouldn't spend that kind of money on that Dana 28. Locked with that big of tire, and you're going to be snapping axleshafts left and right. Easiest upgrade is to get a Dana 35 TTB ('91-'94 Explorer and I believe most '91-'97 Rangers). It essentially bolts in (except need to shorten the front driveshaft) and is significantly stronger. You'll also get more options as far as lockers go. There's only one or two lunchbox lockers available for the D28, but you'll have a broader selection (including selectable lockers) for the D35.
The 7.5 might hold up to 33" tires locked. Again, though, if you're sinking that kind of money into it, See how much it would cost to get an 8.8 - 31 spline rear out of an Explorer.

The major difficulty in "doing" gears is setting the pinion depth and R&P backlash. It isn't technically "difficult," but the specifications are tight, tolerances small, and the cost of a few thousandths of an inch error is your ring & pinion. It can be done by a DIY'er IF he has good instructions and the patience to measure-check the measurement again-adjust a little bit and repeat until he gets it within spec.

 

Aggie05, Keep in mind to put on 33s you are gonna have to put a lift on to clear them tires.The tires are gonna run you a lot of money to begin with. Then the lift itself will cost you a lot of money as well. Then gears will cost you even more. Then lockers to add to that list. I would first go with the lift and tires before going full hardcore. Remember to get to the top of the ladder, you have to climb it on rung at a time. Start your project and wheel it and add as you go along. You might find out that you really don't need the lockers.
I agree with mrshorty, If you are going to go to 33s and lockers You would be better off getting the Dana 35 front axle. You might as well get the 8.8 rear axle both found on an Explorer.
I think you should really look at what you want out of your truck. Is it going to be a trail only rig, daily driver, or part time offroad. This is going to cost a lot of money and if you are going to drive it on the road every day you are not going to be happy if this is built for a trail only rig.
I have gone off road alot with my truck and it is almost stock. I am always adding to my wish list and constantly saving for the next mod.
Did you take your truck off road yet?

 

for Angie05 there wolffpax. Start out slow and work your way towards your area of interest. There are different aspects of wheeling that may change how you build up your B2.

I started with a bone stock B2 three years ago. Sure got stuck a little, but learned about recovery, and improved my skills on the trails. This also forced me to progress slowly and pick my lines. Also I didn't break anything by thrashing it.

Then Last year I upgraded my tires to about 30"rs with stock drivetrain. I enjoy tight wooded trails, mud up to my hubs, and hill climbing. This setup works great, and now I have friends that wheel with me.

This year Im installing an automatic locker in the 7.5, and keeping a close eye on my driveshaft. I should be almost unstopable in the woods.

After that, the D28 will be next, like mrshorty said, and probably a clutch. What Im saying is sometimes a plan is a good thing, along with taking your time, that is where the lack of money is probably helping me. LOL and good wheeling

 

thx for all the great info, ive alrdy have a 4 " suspension lift with 31's on the truck. I do offroading as much as possible but yes this vehicle is my daily driver too. I own a motorcyce too(gsxr1300 ) so i have some other transportation, just not when its raining . anyways i love to go trailing and since the lift and 31 mud swampers it made crazy improvements. Money is a factor and i plan on putting on a 3" suspension lift this summer. My dilema is i want new gears now for highway use but dont want to spend my money on gears now and then wish i would of got a bigger diff like the 8.8. I talked to a drivetrain specialist today and he said the stock one is okay but for 33's and lockers he said i would run into all sorts of troulbe, ie braking shafts etc.... So i think what i need to do is get an 8.8 put the gears i want in that to make up for the bigger tires, and then eventually add auto lockers. But if i replace the rear with an 8.8 do i have to upgrade the front at the same time or will it still be the same if i keep the front stock with the same gears as in the rear?
thx for all the replies, keep em coming. thx and gig em.

 

I would go with the fronts before the rear. The dana 28 axle is a very weak axle in comparison to the rear. Why don't you purchase either both axles from a junkyard at the same time or purchase a flipped or totalled Explorer(91-94) and you can swap over the axles as well as the 4.0. The 4,0 liter is almost a direct bolt in minus the electrical. Just something else to throw out at ya.