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It never fails, it seems like every newbee at work will light the cutting torch without using any oxygen. As most welders/fabricators out there know, this results in a large black cloud of smoke and "black buggar" fall out until the oxygen is applied. It was my high-school metal shop teacher who broke us of that before we even picked up a torch. He told us that the smoke & soot formed from a rich acetylene burn is as carcinogenic as asbestos. I can still remember his warning to us, "Anyone caught with black buggars floating around in their welding booth will be immediately transfered to the basket weaving class."
Of course, our school never had a basket weaving class, but I can see his point. Health risks asside, the soot eventually makes a mess out of the shop and isn't the easiest crap to clean.
Is there something in the welders handbook that says oxy-acetylene torches should be lighted without oxygen, or should I kindly say, "Hey, dude; how bout you add a little O-2 to that."
The newbees I am referring to were previously millwrights who probably used a torch more often than a screwdriver which is why I am hesitant to say anything to them unless there really is a health risk. They should know better, right?
Well,if those millwrights are as experienced as you mention,you proabably will never get them to do it the right way.They figure they allready know what they are doing.Good luck trying to teach old dogs new tricks.
As a matter of fact, the "Welder's Handbook" (by Finch & Monroe) says to open the acetylene valve first and light it, then gradually open up the oxygen. But then a page later is says "crack the oxygen valve and open the acetylene valve a little more" before lighting. So the handbook contradicts itself...
Did anyone see the exploding coffee cup trick on American Hot Rod?
Try this at yoour own risk:
If you turn on the O2 just a little and hold a styrofoam cup upside down over the nozzle, the cup will contain the oxygen. You then place said cup on the table, still upside down. Light the torch, and hold the flame somewhat near the cup. Gradually move the flame closer to the cup and when the O2 catches the flame...
technically you should light the acytelene first no O2. But unless your functionally retarded you shouldn't get black soot-crap because you immediately give it some oxy. Its the fools that wait forever after lighting the acyt to give it some oxygen that make a mess. If you do it right away, barely any crap will float around. IF they're old stubborn millwrights draw an a-hole with a Sharpie on their coveralls or something.
my welding teacher in highschool told us not to use oxygen when lighting a torch and I would say that is how your millright friends were taught, so just because you were taught another way what makes you think your way is right?
I was taught not to use oxy.when lighting the torch as well.I think the millwrights problem is opening the valve to much like mentioned before.I see a lot of people lighting it and just letting it burn without adjusting it until they are situated.
My high school metal shop demonstrated the exploding cup trick to us too. Actually you don't fill it with just oxygen or just acetylene - he showed that when you filled it with strictly oxygen - it would pop, but not really explode. Same thing with acetylene, however if you filled the cup with both..... KAPOW!!!!! and EVERYONE hits the deck. Its pretty funny and when its a little styrofoam cup it doesn't send shrapnel or flames everywhere, it mainly just scares the crap out of everyone around. We were also taught to light the acetylene first too, but I don't think its that big of a deal if you turn on the oxygen right away, especially if you have a well ventilated shop.
Originally posted by pepper32 I was tought to light the fuel first and adjust until the smoke disipates. Next adjust the oxy until you attain an neutral flame.
That is exactly it!
If you light it with oxygen, how would you know if you have the properly regulated amount of acetylene? Light the fuel FIRST, then set the flow to no smoke. Then introduce the oxygen.
I crack both valves a small amount by feel based on experience. Once lit I adjust to neutral and quantity.
I can just look at the flame and tell if it is neutral or not. Maybe a little sound feedback also. A quick twiddle both ways with the O2 will tell me if I am correct. My welding professor would flunk us if we lit a sooty torch.
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