Radiator replacement

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Feb 24, 2004 | 08:47 PM

Defcon

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Radiator replacement

95 F-150
v8
302
4x4.

I noticed a leak in my radiator and have decided to change it out. I am going to go get a new radiator from a local shop. Is there anything I should consider when buying one?

Are there 2 different sizes? I saw somewhere that there is a super cooling and a standard radiator. Is this true? Are there benefits with one over the other?

Any thoughts on replacing it? Any hint, tips or tricks? I don't think it is going to be that difficult. How hard is this for a somewhat mechanical guy who has never really worked on trucks or cars?

Feb 24, 2004 | 09:43 PM

homeslicedave

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Joined: Jan 2004

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From: Pittsburgh

I just replaced my radiator in my 1994 f150, it was pretty standard just make sure u spray the tranny cooling lines good with some wd-40 or some rust penetrant as not to kink them or break them when removing. (mine were rusty as heck). When shopping for a radiator i found that the standard cooling model was only a 1 row unit and the extra cooling model was a two row. My truck had a 2 row in it and i think the 2 row is very common in these trucks. Just make sure you check it out.
Dave

P.S. i got my rad from autozone for $170 with a lifetime warenty.

Feb 25, 2004 | 06:01 PM

borland

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Get an OEM radiator. The automatic transmission cooler lines are the hardest part. I tightened them per the instructions that came with the Modine (OEM), but one of the two connection leaked slightly.

Later went by the radiator shop that sold me the new radiator (was only $175) and the owner tightened it even tighter. I was worried that I might break or strip something. He added an additional 1/4 turn, but mine still weeps oil on that joint. I think the fitting was improperly made.

borland
95' Explorer

Feb 25, 2004 | 11:05 PM

Defcon

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I went and bought a OEM radiator for $170 today. I guess I should have said that I have a manual transmission.

The guy down at the shop was real helpful.

I did get a 2-row as that is what I have in there as well. Seems like this job will be simple. Even for a newbie like myself. Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it!

Mar 1, 2004 | 09:24 PM

Defcon

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Ok, so I gotterdone. No a hard job at all. The only question I have is, the temp guage now fluctuates between 25 and 50% on the reading. I assume I have some air in the system. The question I have is, how do I get this out? Just run the heat on full blast for a few days while driving? I am going to replace the old cap this week as well just to complete the replacement.

Any thoughts? Thanks for the help!!!

Mar 4, 2004 | 06:24 PM

maa139

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From: West Chester PA

Quote:

Originally posted by borland
Get an OEM radiator. The automatic transmission cooler lines are the hardest part. I tightened them per the instructions that came with the Modine (OEM), but one of the two connection leaked slightly.

Later went by the radiator shop that sold me the new radiator (was only $175) and the owner tightened it even tighter. I was worried that I might break or strip something. He added an additional 1/4 turn, but mine still weeps oil on that joint. I think the fitting was improperly made.

borland
95' Explorer

I did my radiator two weeks ago and had the same problem. Is it the lower fitting that's leaking? My problem was the adapter fitting that screws into the radiator. I took the trans line out and capped it, then took the adapter out of the radiator. Wiped off and dried the threads as best I could - did the same on the female threads in the radiator. I then put a coat of RTV sealant on the adapter threads and put it all back together. I've been looking under there every day since for leaks and haven't noticed any. Give it a shot. Should only take about 10 minutes total.

Good luck.

Matt

Mar 9, 2004 | 01:32 PM

ASH

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Joined: Jun 2003

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Quote:

Originally posted by Defcon
Ok, so I gotterdone. No a hard job at all. The only question I have is, the temp guage now fluctuates between 25 and 50% on the reading. I assume I have some air in the system. The question I have is, how do I get this out? Just run the heat on full blast for a few days while driving? I am going to replace the old cap this week as well just to complete the replacement.

Any thoughts? Thanks for the help!!!

Here is what I did. Keep the overflow reservior full at least to the "Cold Level" mark. Every time after you ran the truck and it has cooled, remove the radiator cap and check the level in the radiator. With my truck, as it expelled air from the system, it would draw some fluid from the reservior, but not enough to fill the radiator. Always top the radiator off to the top of the filler neck. You may have to do this for several days until all the air is expelled.

Also, check the small rubber hose leading from the radiator to the overflow reservior, especially at the point where it is connected to the radiator. When I replaced my radiator, mine was cracked and was drawing air instead of fluid from the radiator. I just cut off the end of the hose and slipped it back on the radiator.