Hi All-
I bought a 1986 1-Ton Dually with a 460 in it. The previous owner really neglected this truck.
I, however have brought life back to the Beast. A massive tune-up and Carb overhaul.
Question (1) Can I eliminate the EGR Valve and still be okay with the stock equipment?(Kansas doesn't have emission tests)

Question (2) On the Holley Carb that came on the truck which has motorcraft on the flange. It has two vent tubes, 1 for each fuel bowl. As the rest of that system is gone as well can I vent those hoses into the breather to be recirculated thru the motor?

A large majority of the emissions components are gone. The Air Pump and the charcoal canister are all gone.

Any help would be very much appreciated.

Thanks For the HELP!!!!!!!!!!

Razzzzzzooooooooorrrrrrr

 

Razor,

I have an `85 F350 with 460. Similar to yours, mine was rather neglected and after some work it came back to life. And, like you, I have removed all of my emissions equipment including EGR.

The stock carb is an emissions unit designed to work with the EGR. If you disconnect the EGR and keep that carb the motor will most likely experience detonation under light load. Without the exhaust gases being re-circulated the fuel mixture will be too lean thus causing the detonation. Often the detonation can’t be heard because the noise level in these trucks is so high.

Therefore, it is highly recommended that the carb be replaced with a non-emissions unit. The stock carb can’t readily be modified to richen the fuel mixture. You can do a search on this forum and find many, many post on which carb is best to use, but I have been very happy with the Edelbrock 1406 a 600 CFM non-emission carb with electric choke. The stock unit is 600 CFM. I bought a remanufactured one for about $180.

You can leave the EGR plate and valve in place with the vacuum hose not connected or you can remove it, plug the exhaust hole in the intake with JB Weld, and put a spacer in place of the EGR plate. If you use a spacer make sure you use a four hole carb gasket – not an open plenum type gasket - on both sides of it or you will have a vacuum leak. I used the thick gasket, as Ford used between the EGR plate and the carb, on both sides of the spacer plate.

One thing I found on my motor that you too might want to check is the distributor vacuum advance diaphragm. Mine was dry rotted and allowed a vacuum leak plus it did not advance the ignition timing. You can test it by simply putting a short piece of vacuum line on it and sucking. If you get air then it is shot, but if you have a hard time sucking on it then it means the diaphragm is working.

Good luck,

Mark

 

Thanks For the input. That is exactly what I needed to know.
I'm also glad to hear that I'm not the only one with a neglected diamond in the rough.

Thanks again and Have a Good FORD Day!!!!

Razor

 

Contrary to popular belief the EGR can help you out in a big way. I have been able to get more advance and run a little more lean by just using the EGR. The EGR will recirculate alot of unspent fuel which in esence will let you run a little lean on the main thus giving you a little more power. I had a lean condition at cruise speed in my old 79 Bronco with a 460. I had a ping at 1/4 to mid throttle that wouldnt go away unless I got into the secondaries or I fattened it up to the point where gas miliage went away so with a little research I took the Performer off and went to a Performer EGR manifold and all my problems went away. I tow from San Diego to Yuma Az in 110 degree weather just to go to the river and it made all the difference. Take it as a grain of salt but I believe in clutch fans, EGR, and fresh air intake cleaners. Just those have made my drives better.
Fry