locating a ground
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Greenville, SC
When I bought my truck last August I had the same problems that all of you are talking about. The first time you tried to lock the doors it would work and then get weaker as you tried again, then wouldn't work at all. I thought it was a ground or relay also. I replace all the power lock actuators in the doors and haven't had any problems since. Good Luck 
MAC
MAC
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Greenville, SC
I would go the easy route first. Take a jumper and throw 12 volt DC to the door actuators (each one) to see if it is them.
I am under the assumption you have electrical/electronic knowledge first. We want to be safe and not destroy anything else.
Hope this helps. MAC
I am under the assumption you have electrical/electronic knowledge first. We want to be safe and not destroy anything else.
Hope this helps. MAC
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 673
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
what doesnt make sence to me is this. If the door lock motors were going bad, then, if i were to have 1/2 as many motors on the circuit, then shouldnt the problem be less? On my truck, if it is less, its not noticable.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 673
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
well, its not the ground, i looked at that, and its fine, not the distribution box under the hood, it all checks good too, the relays in the RKE box all check good.
I have retrofitted a lock motor on the drivers door and it works excelent, even without the oem lock power on it
so, maybe it is possiable that all 4 motors do go bad at the same time.
Only in a ford....
I have retrofitted a lock motor on the drivers door and it works excelent, even without the oem lock power on it
so, maybe it is possiable that all 4 motors do go bad at the same time.
Only in a ford....
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 673
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
Well, all is working fine now, no problems. I have hooked up 4 motors and they work great. Just hooked them up to the rods that the OEM motors would power (I didnt take out the orgional ones, just disconected power).
Now all i need to do is wait for my OEM keyless entry remote to get here. Anyone know how to reprogram that?
Now all i need to do is wait for my OEM keyless entry remote to get here. Anyone know how to reprogram that?
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
From: Brighton, Co
Cycle the ignition on then off 8 times within 10 seconds, on the 8th time, the locks will cycle up and down, leave the ignition on when this happens and hit any button on the keyfob and the locks will cycle again, turn off the ignition and you're done.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 673
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
jmorton, you just made my night!!! thanks dude.
It only took 5 cycles with mine, but it works.
THANKS AGAIN!!!
Take this nonfunctional factory door locks
It only took 5 cycles with mine, but it works.
THANKS AGAIN!!!
Take this nonfunctional factory door locks
Last edited by f350xlt460; Feb 27, 2004 at 05:59 PM.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 673
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
I dont mean to drag this on, but this is the direction this thread is going, my keyless remote works weird.
If locks are locked, the unlock button is drives door unlock, then i have to press the lock button to all unlock. Then when i want to lock the works, i have to press the unlock button twice, once for the drivers door unlock and then anoher time for all lock. What is wrong with my FACTORY keyless entry???
If locks are locked, the unlock button is drives door unlock, then i have to press the lock button to all unlock. Then when i want to lock the works, i have to press the unlock button twice, once for the drivers door unlock and then anoher time for all lock. What is wrong with my FACTORY keyless entry???
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 673
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
well, i made my morning and found my mistake. When i unhooked my aftermarked keyless entry, i crossed the 2 lock and unlock wires under the dash, i found that out this am. Uncrossed them and erueka!!!
This thread can now offically end!
This thread can now offically end!
New User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
f350xlt460,
Just curious of the aftermarket lock solenoids that you used. Where did you purchase them and could you describe where you mounted them? I just spent 20 minutes looking (actually feeling) at the OEM install trying to figure out how to remove. I have the same problem as described above with all 4 doors (they didn't all quit at the same time but almost). Thanks for any and all help!
Nascargo6
Just curious of the aftermarket lock solenoids that you used. Where did you purchase them and could you describe where you mounted them? I just spent 20 minutes looking (actually feeling) at the OEM install trying to figure out how to remove. I have the same problem as described above with all 4 doors (they didn't all quit at the same time but almost). Thanks for any and all help!
Nascargo6
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 673
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
I just looked on ebay and ordered 2 wire lock motors. I mounted them inside the door wherever it would be inline with the lock linkage best and clear the windows when the lowered. I didnt remove the OEM motors, it seemed too damn hard and then if i did that, i think i would have had to get OEM motors again b/c it looks like the OEM motors have the key lock and door open linkage built into them. I just unhooked the power to the motors, left the door open circuit wires hooked up and went from there, hope that helps.
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