About the dwell: I am pretty sure tht your truck came from the factory with the duraspark and not points. You did not need to set the dwell on the duraspark or even the pertronix.

The accel cannister type coils (resemble stock) do not need a resistor. They are a 1.5ohm coil. The big huge funky accel racing coil is different and does require a resistor.

On mine I did away with the whole wire going to the coil. I ran a wire right from the battery to a switch in the cab and back to the coil. I used the accel cannister coil. It worked pretty good but now I have an MSD setup.

 

Well, that makes sense to me. I don't see how he could be setting a dwell when there are no points to set. He must not have popped the cap off. Duraspark has no dwell as you said.

Dwell is the time the points are closed in degrees! No points--no dwell. I was wondering about that.

 

No, I actually have a points type ignition system, I am sure because I just replaced them with a Blue Streak set, I bet that for the first part of the trucks life it did have a 360 with a Duraspark, but that has since given way to a 390 with a breaker-point ignition, which in turn makes it very interesting everytime I have to get a part. aka Frankystein

 

I think the dwell for the FE is much higher also. I think it is 29 - 31 degrees or something but I lost my chiltons. If you are incapable of getting your dwell set right you have a worn distributor and it will need rebuilt/replaced.

 

So Ratsmoker, why the change to MSD? Do they have a better product, or was it personal opinion?

 

I went with the whole setup (distributor, 6AL and coil). It made the engine much more responsive and it idles better. The MSD coil is my personal preference after running the accel.

 

Well this is the first engine related mod I have done in my life so I guess I will ride with it for now and experiment later, wait I am actually lying, I put a K&N air filter on last week! OH-BOY!!!!, well thanks guys, looks like I'll do some rewiring and increase the dwell a little, any timing recommendations?

 

Ah now that explains it! It's all coming together. If someone put a ballast resistor there, then the coil must need it, leave it there along with the way the rest of the wiring is, it's all correct. Set the dwell to 26 - 31 degrees by changing the point gap, there's no rewiring to mess with for changing dwell. Once that's set bump up the initial timing to 10BTC.

Oh I was gonna mention, dwell can still be measured on solid state systems (non CD or multispark). On my Unilite I think I measured 42 degrees, not bad considering there's 45 degrees between lobes.

 

BB,
Someone put the ballast there with the STOCK ignition coil. Changing to a coil that is wound for use without a ballast means you take out the resistor.

Yes, you can get a reading on a dwell tach without points, but it's not adjustable. Dwell refers to the amount of time in degrees the points dwell in the closed position. Opening the gap decreases the dwell, closing the gap increases it.

Why he's having so much trouble setting it puzzles me. He is either: A) using a worn out rubbing block (lobes are worn down),
or, B) has bad shaft bushings or bent shaft. Or it could be he's setting then statically, ie while not spinning the distributor.

The rubbing block (cam) is easily replaced and will not require tossing out the entire distributor.

He needs to remove the cap and rotor, find a screw driver that fits between the adjusting notch in the plate and points base and twist it ever so gently as he cranks over the engine with the starter. (A good strong battery is helpful!)

Read the dwell as he adjusts it until the needle stays between the upper and lower dwell limits. Then tighten the lock screw which should only be slightly loose enough to allow it to pivot with pressure.


Personally I can think of no mechanical reason why anyone would want a distributor with points anymore. I'd go back with the Duraspark set up to eliminate theses above mentioned head bangers. The coil will still work fine. (Concerns for original authenticity aside)

To answer his question, the MSD is an excellent system because the spark "rings" for a longer time, (or ripples, if you will, several times per cylinder firing. Hence the name: "MSD"-- Multi-Spark Dishcharge).

You can keep the Accel coil and just add on the MSD control. It's compatible with any hot coil, and a Duraspark I or II as well.

 

He's using the 'ol chrome Accel Super Stock coil, they've been around forever and are designed as a replacement for the stock coil to use with the vehicles original ballast resistor. I think the primary windings are around 1.2 to 1.4 ohms just like stock coils.

I understand what dwell is, was just showing how much more you get with solid state.

 

Barry, when I was running the accel chrome cannister it said to give it a full 12V supply. It did run with the resistor in place though.

 

Really! When I ran one (in the '70's) it said to use the stock ballast.

I can't find anything online that says yea or nea.

 

I just looked at their site and thjey make a ton of different cannisters. I have the universal 8140C. They have one made to drop right in to the stock pooints system also. I either called or had instructions with mine that said full 12V.

 

Yes, I agree. Solid state was a blessing in MHO. I hope these newer ignition systems can prove to be as reliable.

I can honestly say I have never had any one of my old time ignition coils go bad.

I can't say that about my V-10. One coil went bad at 166k, not too shabby. But the F-150 (the one that went up in smoke) lost two coils at one time at 50k. So, I wait for the other show to drop. Hoping, of course, it won't.

 

Well here is the end result fellas. With the coil hooked up to the ballast I ran it but at higher rpms I think it was starved because it was almost like running into a govener at about 4k, topped out at about 80 at that was with the gasser to the floor for about 2 miles. So then I spent most of today running 10 guage wire to the ignition, then straight to the coil and took it out for a full throttle stab and it went to 90 and didn't feel like it was "starved" but the acceleration wasn't all that great, so I came home and set the dwell to 30 degrees and the timing to 10 degrees BTDC and took her out, acceleration improved, and I could have gone 100 if I wanted too but no 4x4 should go that fast, I am very satisfied with this upgrade. Next on the list, an MSD Ready to Run distributor and then.......................... Thanks guys for all the help!!