OK, I know this subject has been beat to death, but I'm posting anyway. I have a 96 F150 ext-cab, 302 automatic 4x4. I bought it new and it has 153K on it now. I put manual hubs on a few years back because the autos kept engaging, wearing tires, etc and also I thought they were shot after getting stuck a couple of times in stupid places.

Now after reading this forum I've learned quite a bit, namely today's 4x4s are not true 4 wheel drive especially when you need it. My truck looks pretty silly stuck with the front right wheel in the ditch and two wheels on dry ground not moving.

I use it as a daily driver as well as hitting the backroads with mud, snow, ice, etc. Anyway I'm leaning towards a Detroit EZ locker for the rear. I have a Ford 8.8, 3.55 Limited Slip 31 Spline...I think. As best I can tell the rear tag numbers are S837M (3or8orB)L55885J05. Can I use an EZ locker in this LS rear? I've read about noise in manuals especially. Are they noisy in an automatic? I think I could stand a slight clicking noise when turning. Are they easy to install for someone who hasn't done much of this? I literally have a shadetree to work under and normal type tools.

I'm open to any suggestions from someone with experience using lockers. Thanks.

 

I also have the same questions same truck and the ez locker.
Also is there any drivablity problems going with a locker and not the Ls

 

A locker in the back will make it a little squirly in the snow. I suggest an aftermarket LS...or....if u have the 650 bucks..get an auburn selectable LS/Locker...I am getting one of those I think. It's a LS until u push the button and lock it up.

 

I'd put the EZ in the front, wont affect any driveability until you lock the hubs and that's where the weight of the engine pulls you out. You have rear LS, right?

 

I've heard both ways, that a locker causes driveability problems or that it causes no problems. I now have LS and don't see how it can get any more squirrely than it is now on snow/ice. The rear end wants to go sideways now anyway with just a little tap on the gas. It should be called un-limited slip from what I can tell.

Also, someone in another thread said that a 2-wheel drive with a locker can go more places than a LS 4-wheel. I don't know, but that's why I was looking at putting it on the rear.

Has anyone put an EZ locker in this truck? Are you happy with it and does anyone have any installation tips?

 

On any surface, such as ice, on which neither wheel of the limited slip can get enough traction to cause the clutches to slip a locker and an LS act exactly the same.

 

I have limited slip in the Bronco front and rear and wouldn't have it any other way, except lockers in both ends. I can go places without getting stuck that friends in Jeeps with open diffs do get stuck in.

Another 'soft locker' similar to the EZ Locker is the Powertrax NoSlip www.powertrax.com which seems to be a little less expensive too.

 

I would over shim the rearend so it actualy does something, then put a locker up front.

For snow and Ice your never going to notice the difference between a LS/locker/spool, except they are all better than a open diff.

 

The NoSlip claims to be quieter, but from what I find on the net it runs 350 to 400 and the EZ runs 230-250. Where is a good place to buy a locker? Is the NoSlip still a do-it-yourself job like the EZ?



How do you do this? This is all new to me.
Thanks for all the replies so far.

 

Wildcat, according the the Powertrax website, the NoSlip is a do-it-yourself install.

I didn't realize the EZ Locker was so inexpensive. When I found out it wasn't available for my axle (10.25" Ford), I lost interest in pricing it. For me, it was a choice between the LockRight for $325 or the Detroit Locker for $600, with the NoSlip unavailable for my axle. I chose the LockRight.

 

I just installed a PowerTrax No-Slip this past weekend, and since nobody has said anything specific about how you install it, I thought I would add my two cents.

In terms of tools, you'll need a jack capable of lifting the rear end of the truck, two jack stands and some metric and American hand tools including a 3/8" drive ratchet or adapter for the fill plug on the differential. I have a '94 F150, and it had American-sized bolts on the differential cover, but the pinion bolt was a tiny metric bolt that only my 1/4" drive ratchet would clear. That sucker is on pretty tight for a small bolt (15 ft. lbs.) and you will be best off with a six-sided wrench or socket to get it off so you don't risk rounding off the bolt like you might with a 12-sided wrench or socket. Clearance, like I said, is tight.

The instructions that come with the No-Slip are really good. There was just one step that didn't make sense. That was the step that required me to put in the slotted driver. They should have said to rotate the ring gear side 180 degrees first, but it's pretty obvious what you need to do from looking at how the parts go together.

The installation went really smooth. I didn't even have to take the wheels off. It was almost scary, it went so well. I kept expecting to get hung up somewhere, but it went great. The only part that is difficult to do by yourself is the testing after you get the locker installed. For that, you really need a helper; you have to hold one wheel against the drivetrain and rotate the other wheel. Awkward by yourself, to say the least.

Some of our trucks apparently have differential cover gaskets, and some have just gasket sealer. Mine was the gasket sealer only variety, so you'll need some Permatex blue gasket sealer if you're in that boat.

The best way to find out what fits your truck is to call PowerTrax and have them tell you the model number that fits.

The best price I found was at
Rocky-Road. They had my model of the No-Slip for $375. Everywhere else I looked it was much higher.

I haven't had much opportunity to really test the No-Slip yet, but my test drive went great. It was smooth and quiet with no tire scuffing or clunking. It actually reduced the amount of driveline slack I had, which must have been from the side gears and spider gears I removed to put the locker in. With one wheel in sand and the other on concrete, the No-Slip allowed the wheel in sand to slip slightly before shifting power to the other wheel completely, and then the truck just smoothly took off. Turning corners is smooth unless you make big throttle adjustments in mid-corner, which is a no-no anyway.

Like I said, I can't say anything about performance and reliability yet, but installation-wise, you can't go wrong with the Powertrax No-Slip. If you drive a lot on-road, but still want good slippery-surface traction I think it's a great way to go.

 

good post we need a few more step by steps around here.

 

Thanks for all the info, you've answered a lot of my questions about lockers. After I save up a few $$$ for a locker and install it (probably on the rear to start with) I'll post and let you know how it went.

 

The EZ locker will require the use of an open carrier. In other words, it won't work with an LS carrier. If you have to reset the gears, you may as well go with a full case locker. The PowerTraxx's No Slip may work with the LS carrier, but double check it first.

 

spool both. thats what i would do. well, unless you plan to drive it everyday. then just spool the front, and get the EZ locker out back, i hear these are the shiznit, but if you can go with detroit lockers fornt and back. remember if you spool the front you can always unlock your hubs and then there is no adverse effects. i have mine mini spooled, and so far its worked real good for me, just dont lock the hubs on the pavement.

Idiomaticman