hello everyone,
Is there any thing negative about lifting a 2 wheel drive? Most of the guys that I know bought the 4 wheel drive and never really been off the pavement with them including me. I recall one the member here that just lifted his 2 wheel drive and it looks great.
Any thoughts?
Tinman

 

No negatives in my book. I know Fabtech makes a lift for 2by's, not sure who else does. I know a few members here have lifted 2 wheelers, they will stop in and be able to give you more info on it.

 

I'll be long winded, if I may...

Nothing negative, just a few expected problems. I had a Fabtech 4" lift installed on my 2wd. The first problem was the driveline shudder on takeoff. Easy to fix, you can get a $35 shim kit from SuperLift to bring the center carrier bearing down. I had to shim mine 1 3/4" down. The kit comes with 2" of shims and all the bolts and washers you need. The second problem is that although everyone swears the coil springs don't settle... they do. (not a lot) So get it lifted, get an alignment, wait 3 or 4 months and get a second alignment. You don't have the problems on a twin I-beam truck that you have with the A-arms on the 1997-2004 F150's. The brackets you get will lower the mounting points for the I-beams and also set them outward a bit toward the outside of the frame. This is so that you don't need to buy new wheels with more backspacing to eliminate tire rub on the frame. Also you get radius arm lowering brackets to keep full articulation. You get a longer pitman arm and front sway bar drop hardware too. No need to mess with the rear sway bar. A nice bonus is that the new shocks and the softer coils improved the ride 300%.
Fabtech was my first choice. Great hardware. There are no suspension component related noises or problems to date. The truck still drives and tracks straight where you can let go of the steering wheel, no pulling to either side. After the second alignment, no more tire wear due to improper camber either (settling of the coils). Fabtech makes a 4" and a 6" lift for 2WD's of different levels. I got the "basic" and that was enough for me. On my reg cab and 5.4L, the 4" kit actually gave me 4.5" of lift because my truck is so light. This kit is designed to handle a crew cab with a V10. I replaced the 1" rear lift blocks that came with the kit with 3" blocks. (Hence the severe driveline shudder.) That makes the truck look more level especially if you carry heavy stuff in the back. With the 4" lift coils and 1" rear blocks in the kit, the truck "appears" to be sitting nose up because the hood line is higher than the bed rails. In reallity, the truck is almost exactly level. With the 4" lift, my truck is a little higher than a stock 4WD F250 and a little lower than a stock 4WD F350. (Reg cab to reg cab comparison.) My truck is as high as my friends' stock 2002 4WD F250 crew cab with the 7.3L diesel.
Fabtech, however, does not make lifts for diesels, you'll have to go with ProComp for that. ( a pretty fair second choice.) The cost of the 4" lift is higher than for a 4wd. You're looking at around $2000 for everything. (Lift, install, alignments, carrier bearing kit.)
I have some pics at the bottom of my gallery, take a look at some of the components.

 

Great information, I always been curious about lifting one. I have owned 3 4x4 trucks over the last 20 years and really never used them off road. The 2 wheel drive lifted looks much better than the stock ones, IMHO.
Tinman

 

Well detailed n578md. As I was reading your reply I was wondering if you got the radius arms with your Fabtech kit but you answered that later by stating you got the basic kit. I purchased a 6" Pro-Comp kit. I actually preferred the 6" Fabtech kit as I wanted the Fabtech radius arms but I just couldn't pass up a one-time deal at 4WPW. They advertised a free installation and free upgrade to Pro Comp MS6 shocks with purchase of a Pro-Comp lift kit. They failed to state in the ad that this was for 4WD only. A little arguing and I ended up getting the Pro Comp 6" kit, installation, alignment cams, alignment, Rancho RS9000X shocks (no MS6's for 2WD), tax, everything for $1,004. This kit is 6" front and 3" rear. Rear is 1 1/2" blocks and 1 1/2" add-a-leaf. My only problem is that my tires rub (barely) against the sway bar and the radius arms at full lock. I have 315/75/16's on stock aluminum rims. Even though the front actually was lifted 6 1/2", I wasn't quite satisfied with the height. I added 2" Daystar urethane spacers under the coils. That was a year ago and with settling I'm right at 8" front / 3"rear. The front sits slightly higher than the rear but thats the way I like it. The ride is much improved over stock. I would like to get the Fabtech radius arms to replace the stock radius arms. They not only look good, but they are offset inward to eliminate the tire rub problem.

'01 F350CC LB V10 2WD

Changed that sig again didn't you n578md?

 

Wow V10! 315's on the stock 7" wide rims? I thought the 285's was as much as you could go? I still have the stock 265's but I might go to some 285's at some point. I never thought to check the sway bar and radius arm clearance though... You think 285's might rub? I also got my lift kit and install done at 4 wheel parts but I didn't fare as good as you did. I paid twice as much for 2" less lift. And no add-a-leaf either. You didn't have any problems with the center carrier bearing and vibrations? Talk about over-equiping a 2wd, I think I might install a warn semi-hidden mount and stick a Mile Marker 10,500lbs hydro winch on it too. I hope that won't make the front end squat down.

Yes, i changed my sig again, you didn't like my Chevrolet F2500 with the dual 2.7L inline 4, remember?

 

Is it me, or does it seem like if your going to spend 2000.00 lifting a truck, why not just spend the extra grand and get a 4x4?
I imagine after the 2wd is lifted it sits around the same height anyway?

 

Ground clearance, a limited slip, good tires and good driving skills is all I need. I used to have a 4WD, but I never used it. I was always in 2WD off road. Why push all that extra hardware around that I never use? It's extra maintenance (and cost) for something I don't need. It's all the extra 4WD related problems I didn't like. My 2wd never (or rarely) has any problems with wheel bearings, ESOF or hubs not engaging or hubs vibrating, I never have to check the fluids in the diff or transfer case. (I tried but it says "Windows did not detect any transfer cases and Dana 60's, if you would like to install them manually press NEXT") I also don't have the steering problems and tire wear that I had on my 4WD. Plus I didn't like a front end with leaf springs. (they don't ride as nice.) This time around, I went as simple as I could. Now, I'm not saying 4wd is useless, I'm saying 4WD is useless TO ME.

 

Some just like the look of a lifted truck plain and simple.
If I lived in a warm climate, I would probably go the 2by route, since I don't do any mudding or such.

 

Same here n578md. For the others, no need to debate 2WD vs. 4WD, the original question was regarding lifting a 2WD. But since you got me going, it's all about personal preference and what works for each individual. I like the smoother ride, longer wheel travel, simplicity, etcetera of 2WD. I've had 4 different 4-wheelers in the last 20+ years. Rarely, and I emphasize rarely, did I ever use 4WD, and in those times that I did, I probably didn't need it. Location has a lot to do with it. It doesn't snow here and it rarely rains. In SoCal, lifted 2WD's became popular over 20 years ago with the start of the pre-runner type truck. Basically a truck for pre-running the off-road race courses in the desert. Nearly all the race truck classes are 2WD. This type of truck is even more popular in SoCal today. Not to say there aren't 4-wheelers, just that there are far more 2-wheelers set up this way. I will say that as far as Super Dutys go out here, by far, most of those lifted are 4-wheelers. On any given day, I probably see 15-20 lifted 4WD SD's and maybe 3-4 2WD SD's; every day probably 100+ lifted trucks of other brands. On my street of 18 homes, 5 have lifted trucks; 2 are SD's, my 2WD plus a 350CC4WD with 37's (plus my son's pre-runner style 2WD rice-burner, haven't converted him yet). In SoCal, most of the lifted 2WD's are late F150's and Cheb 1500's. There are those that really use their 4WD SD's (like CWB), but he goes to places to intentionally use 4WD. But, around here, most are never put into 4wd. If you use your 4WD Sinister73, great !, you made the right choice!; I'm just saying that around here, most, not all, but most paid extra for 4WD because that's the fad now, not that that's what they needed or will ever use. And, for the record, the invoice difference between a 2WD and 4WD for an '04 350SDCC SRW is $2438, retail is $2835.

 

Lifting a truck has nothing to do with 4 wheel drive. People do it mainly for two reasons.
Looks and clearance. If you like the look I say go for it. If you need clearance 2 wheel
or 4 wheel makes no difference you need the clearance. In my opinion if some one say's
it has to be a 4x4 to be lifted. They don't know what they are talking about. For the mater
to me that if you do any wheeling it would make more since to lift a two wheel over a four wheel because you don't have the extra drive wheels to get you off if you hang on something. I'm not
saying 2 wheel is better than 4 they both have their advantages. Lift does the same for both. It
looks good and gives more clearance.

Just my 2 cents

 

Responding to n578md's questions: Yeah, 315's are a little wide for 7" rims. Should be on an 8" rim. I just run the pressure a little lower so the center of the tread doesn't bulge and wear too much. Actually makes for a pretty smooth ride. I have Remington Mud Brutes. Good traction off-road but too noisy! After a 4-hour drive to the river my ears are ringing and the wife is grumbling! Rotating often seems to keep the noise down. All terrains next time! As for your 265's versus 285's; the 285's are 11.22" wide and the 265's are 10.43" wide. Thats only 3/4" difference in width. Since half the difference is to each side of the rim, thats only 3/8" more to the inside, right? Crank your steering full lock to both sides and check the clearance between your 265's and the radius arms and sway bar. If you have more than 3/8" you should be good to go the the 285's without rubbing. With my 315's, I can go full lock, it's just that I can feel the tires rubbing. Not enough that it prevents it from moving, just enough that it puts a little rub mark on the radius arm and the sway bar. Out here, the more serious 2WD off-roaders tend to run a tire on a narrower rim to get a little more flexibility from the sidewalls and let the sidewalls protect the rim. They also don't run any sway bars at all. The purpose is to allow each front wheel to travel more independently without affecting the other wheel. While driving straight, unless both front wheels are going over the same bump simultneously, that sway bar is just another spring, right? I drive too much highway and tow to remove the sway bar. Never had a problem with the center carrier bearing. I only have 3" lift in the rear plus this is a crewcab longbed. I understand this is more of a problem with the shorter trucks.

 

"I understand this is more of a problem with the shorter trucks."

Yes, that is probably true. I thought that reg cabs had a one-piece driveshaft but mine has a two-piece. As they say, the angle of the dangle is inversely proportional to the heat of the beat and that makes for vibrations on a short wheelbase. After putting the 3" blocks on the rear axle, I now have some pretty nasty wheelhop on loose surfaces when I need to give it a lot of power, how's your's doing with the add-a-leaf?

 

No wheel hop at all. Maybe it's the 3" blocks. I've got 1 1/2" blocks and an add-a-leaf. Maybe seacrh the threads for this topic or post a new subject. Somebody's had to have had this problem and experimented with add-a-leafs versus blocks or a combination both. I see some trucks with stacked blocks sometimes; 8" or so total! Scary!

Re: Your sig and the dual 2.7 inline 4's; Had an Audi 5000 in the early 80's with an inline 5 . . . I refuse to compare the V10 to two of those worthless piles of iron and aluminum. Or did I just do that?

 

I saw a 1995 or 96 F250 with 3 blocks stacked once, it looked craptacular. I guess if I could find a leaf stack that gives me a 3 or 3.5" lift over stock that would be good. I don't think anyone makes one for a 2WD yet. You DO have a dual 3.4L inline 5, don't you? Good news for you, you can get a Chevrolet Colorado with the new Inline 5! (For your son!) Looking at your little avatar picture, what kind of bumper do you have on that thing? It looks like a ranchhand bumber (all black) or is it just a stock black front bumper?