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lifting a 2 wheel drive

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Old Feb 20, 2004 | 03:41 PM
  #16  
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V10DoubleTow
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From: Somewhere west of Arizona
Try 4WPW for the add-a-leaf or Summit Racing. The 2WD rear leafs are the same as the 4WD set, right? My Summit catalog lists the Pro-Comp EXP-13122 short leaf kit for $49.95 and the EXP-13124 long leaf kit for$61.95, including new center bolts. Says 1.5" - 2.5" lift. Summit also has Pro-Comp complete leaf spring sets for 2 1/2" - 8" lift from $119.95. You could even have a local spring shop re-arch your existing springs or add a few more leafs. I've been thinking of having that done to mine to get rid of the blocks.

Front bumper is stock chrome. I need to spend a little time setting up my gallery.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2004 | 06:18 PM
  #17  
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n578md
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From: Allen, Tx
I was thinking more of a complete rear leaf replacment. Jetjock16 (or is it 15 now?) had pictures of something like that. It looked like a complete pack of spring that would bolt in instead of the stock ones. That could be a bit more expensive but it might ride nicer. You know what I'm taking about?

Yes, put in a gallery so we can see what a 2WD looks like with 8" of lift.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2004 | 06:42 PM
  #18  
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V10DoubleTow
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Summit shows complete Pro-Comp spring packs in their catalog but no breakdown of part numbers. Try Summit's website or 4WPW's. How about Deaver or National Spring?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2004 | 07:50 PM
  #19  
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I didn't find anything on National, 4wpw, or summit but I did find a couple of web site that sell Deaver spring packs. They make springs for just about any height and quite a few vehicles. I found 3" lift springs for between 450 and 600 bucks for an F150. None for my Chevrododge F2500 with the dual 2.7L I4 though. I guess it would be a "special" application. For that price, that seems like a good way to go. I was expecting those to cost at least $1000.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2004 | 11:08 PM
  #20  
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V10DoubleTow
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From: Somewhere west of Arizona
Doesn't the Chevrododge F2500 Series come with leading link rubber band suspension like the Honda motorcycles did in the sixties?

Good deal with the Deavers, I don't much care for blocks. Maybe i'LL CHECK INTO THAT FOR MINE...oops, sorry for yelling...hit the caps key.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2004 | 12:01 AM
  #21  
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n578md
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From: Allen, Tx
"Doesn't the Chevrododge F2500 Series come with leading link rubber band suspension like the Honda motorcycles did in the sixties? "

Oh no, nothing that fancy. In fact when I bought this truck, the wheels were directly bolted to the frame. That's why I said the ride improved 300% after the lift kit install in my first post. (I didn't know Honda in the 60's HAD suspensions.)
I'm going to have to "find" some spare money and try the Deavers. You got any pictures of your aircraft carrier... errrr, I mean truck yet?
 
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Old Feb 21, 2004 | 08:38 AM
  #22  
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I have the 6" fab tech lift on my 2004 works great but keep a eye on the alignment it took 2 trips to the shop to get it right
 
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Old Feb 21, 2004 | 03:11 PM
  #23  
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I have a '01 Crew Cab 2WD and installed the 4" Fabtech kit basic kit. It's been a year and so far so good. The lift shop installed the springs from the 6" kit to handle the extra weight of the PSD and the front end has not sagged a bit. They used around a 1.5" block in the rear to level the truck out.

I haven't noticed any negatives... braking seems the same, rides about the same. Just make sure you secure your brakelines if you upgrade to larger tires. I'm only running 285s and I burned one line pretty good.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2004 | 03:47 PM
  #24  
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From: Somewhere west of Arizona
desertford, Looked at your gallery and saw your hometown. I'm not far from you. Saw a 2WD SD CC in Norco last year with at least a 12" lift, 37's and widened front fenders (f-glass)...made mine look like it was lowered. It had custom coils and extended radius arms, the drop brackets were probably 8" or so and the I-beams were reformed for the additional lift. There are shops out here that will reform your I-beams so you can add longer coils without changing the drop brackets. Some shops also fabricate beams with additional length.

Mods in gallery
 
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Old Feb 23, 2004 | 09:36 AM
  #25  
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Craig, do you think it was the combo of the lift and the tires that got your brake line or just the tires? I just installed 285's with no lift and haven't seen any problems yet. it's only been about a week though.

Scott
 
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Old Feb 23, 2004 | 10:44 AM
  #26  
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V10DoubleTow
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From: Somewhere west of Arizona
Craig, I've got 315's on stock 7" rims and you got me worried about the brake lines so I went out to take a look. I've got 5 plastic rings about 1/2" apart wrapped around each brake line right where the tire would rub. There is some minor evidence of rubbing but nothing serious. Maybe with 8" lift versus 4" or 6" my lines are pulled a little tighter. Must only happen at full lock. I'm going to need to check them for length now to make sure they don't pull apart although I've had it this way for a year now. Are the plastic rings from Ford or did 4WPW add these when they installed the lift?. I can tell that 4WPW relocated the ABS sensor wires and that is what the brake lines are secured to. The brake lines are not secured to anything solid. How did you secure yours so that they don't rub?
 
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Old Feb 23, 2004 | 11:38 AM
  #27  
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From: Houston, TX
Cokeman,

It's very hard to tell, I'd have to say the combination. The lift tended to take some of the slack out of the flexible brakeline into the caliper, but my 285s have a pretty square edge on their inside edge (where sidewall meets the tread). I think most of the damage occurred when I was making very tight turns -- that created a lot of slack in the line and the line was now high enough to catch the inside edge of the tire.

I cought the problem before the line leaked, but it had worn down to the layer of (nylon?) mesh. Not sure if those brakelines have a metal mesh layer or not.

I just tied mine back with some cable-ties.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2004 | 11:46 AM
  #28  
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Doubletow,

Best as I could tell, those plastic rings are molded into the line. I tried to slide them thinking I could use them to buffer any future wear until I got the line replaced, but I couldn't get them to budge.

They were on the new OEM replacement line I bought from Ford.

Funny, it was actually the dealer here in Houston that I hate so much that actually spotted the wear. I was in getting my rear u-joints replaced after 60k miles
 
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Old Feb 23, 2004 | 11:48 AM
  #29  
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Craig64
I just tied mine back with some cable-ties.


Thats what I did as well.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2004 | 03:13 PM
  #30  
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V10DoubleTow
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From: Somewhere west of Arizona
TrunkSlammer: Took a peek at your gallery, schweet! Noticed one of your mods was "Antenna Ball". Jack-in-the-Box or Weinerschnitzel? Did you realize an increase in performance after this modification? Was the installation difficult? I would swear I gained at least 5 mph in my uphill towing with my Jack-in-the-Box Anaheim Angels antenna ball. My only problem is that his butt is getting a rash from me driving in and out of the garage.
 
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