Green Rotella?
I'm still waiting on the test kit to get here. I changed over to Delo and have not noticed the green tinge. Just did my brothers oil yesterday in his '99 and he had the same coloration mine did. So it's something about the Rotella, I was told the same thing as you when I contacted shell, "must be some green dye from a previous oil leak test".
John
I got Delo 400 15-40. Cost about a buck more than the Rotella at Advance Auto. I don't think there's anything wrong with Rotella it just made me nervous when I saw the green tinge to it having never really noticed it before, and when the Shell rep said that it was not normal my panic meter started to rise thinking I had or was fixing to have a major problem.
John
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
When the results come back you will know exactly what is in the oil, how your engine is wearing, and (hopefully) have an idea about sources should you have any problems. (Which I am inclined to doubt) I use a service located in Wisconsin once a year for every engine so I can track changes in time and anticipate future problems. Small changes in certain elements tell me how the engine is wearing over time and give me the data I need to make informed decisions about which engines to rebuild, which to sell, and which to run until I am an old man.
Assuming that you do not have visually detectable amounts of water in the oil and that the oil has not been diluted by diesel, you should make sure you actually use this engine before you send the oil off for analysis. You need to get the engine up to temperature and run it hard enough to raise and hold the oil temp up. Idling around town will not do it and coasting along unloaded isn't much better.
I notice a lot of problems with injectors and glow plugs for people who never work these engines. I notice our trucks run better after they have been pulling hard from 2700- 3000 RPMs for a sustained period. A loaded short 2-5 minute climb is even enough to get the EGTs up and the high RPMs help. (NOT LUGGING!) Remember, this engine, and especially the early powerstrokes, produce all their power ABOVE 2500 RPMs- they were designed to run at high RPMs. My theory is that heating them up to operating temp and then running them hard enables the engine to heat up enough to clean up and blow the carbon off of injectors, valves and glow plugs. It also takes all the moisture out of the engine oil. We have had hard starters and light smokers clear right up after the first day of hard work spring hauling seed after a winter of idling round behind plows and cattle yards.
Assuming nothing major is wrong with your engine- you are not pumping diesel into the crankcase from the injectors and there is no water sitting in the bottom of your oil pan, my recommendation is to stop fretting- run the engine as it was designed to be run, and get the oil analyzed. Then you will have the data necessary to make an informed decision.
Keep us posted on the results.
-Mike
first I am wondering if you even read any of the previous posts on this subject, if you had, you would have read that I have used shell Rotella for 18 years in a '83 6.9 f-250. I havent said that there is any thing wrong with Shell Rotella oil, just that in this particular instance it has a green tinge to it, and this makes me wonder why. When about a 1/2 dozen guys notice a green tinge to their oil when using Rotella.... (didnt show green with Motorcraft) it naturally makes you wonder why. You will also read that we have contacted Shell and am waiting for oil sample bottle as per their request. Now I am wondering what makes you think that there is nothing wrong with the oil do you know something the rest of don't know??? ("Well, it is either the oil,(in which case nothing is wrong)or it is the engine (in which case changing the oil is not going to help you at all is it?") could you be any more condescending with Your remarks??? It would seem to me that when you have something more constructive to add to this thread it would be more helpful, it also seems to me that your flip remarks are indictive of some one who hasn't had this problem.
John,
have you gotten any information back from your oil sample? I keep thinking its maybe some thing to do with lot numbers or something like that, do you have the lot numbers from the bottles that you used when you changed oil the last time?
Do you know what numbers on the bottle mean what?
I never said there was anything wrong with the Rotella and the reason for the change to Delo 400 was for comparison. I have always used Rotella and never had any problems, it just worried me a little when I saw the green tinge to it thats all, I understand what you're saying about "Running" the engine and believe me I do, I-285 here in Atlanta is known as the Atlanta 500 if you are not doing 80 you'll get run over. Thanks for the input.
Northshore
I sent my sample to Blackstone on Monday so I should hear from them soon. Unfotunately I did not keep any of the Rotella bottles or record any info off of them. As soon as I get the analysis back I'll post the results.
John
Good luck w/ the results. I'd suggest sticking with the same oil for now- that way you can use this test as a baseline and then by running a subsequent test, you will be able to determine if something is changing with your engine. If you change oils, the test results will differ but you will be unable to (easily) isolate the cause.
I buy oil in 50gal drums and pump it directly from the drum to the engine in a measured amount. I never see the new oil but I suspect that color could easily varry more in small containers. It could even have been lightly (but not terminally) contaminated by anything from containers to funnels.
I have friends running synthetic oil and special filters on their powerstrokes. They changed oil once three years ago. They send oil in every 5k to see if it is depleated- and the lab keeps saying "oil approved for continued use." While I admire their system, I like to have a good supply of used oil to my other neighbor. I think he uses it in his Duramax- or maybe just in the 6.2- I forget.
I run an engine hour meter and change oil every 100-150 hours, depending upon use and operating conditions. Sometimes I run Delo when I am on the road and can not find Rotella easily. My hunch is that that these engines are fine with anything that is approved and clean. But when I send off tests, I like to be sure I have been running the same oil for a couple of changes.
-mike
Good suggestion on the baseline, did not think about that. I ordered a Fumoto drain valve today so when it gets here i'll be changing again, as much as I drive I should probably buy oil in 55 gallon drums as well, I have a friend who uses the waste oil in a heater for his shop in the winter so he gets all all mine and I get to use his lift whenever.
Thanks again
John
http://www.rotella.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php
I haven't posted there yet, but I'm sure the resident Rotella guru could answer your questions..


