2000 SD250 Rear Blocks

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Feb 8, 2002 | 12:43 AM

#16

Ghostrider304

Senior User

Joined: Dec 2001

Posts: 360

Likes: 0

From: USA

2000 SD250 Rear Blocks

Well I just had a BDS shackle Leveling kit put on my 2001 F-250. I still have the stock two inch. blocks out back so my truck sits almost dead level now, but with the 4 inch. blocks yours should give you that little rack your looking for. Plus you will retain the stock spring which means you retain much of the stock ride. Check out BDSsuspension.com on the web.

Hope this is of some help and good luck.

Will-

Feb 8, 2002 | 01:36 AM

#17

abendx

Posting Guru

Joined: Oct 2001

Posts: 2,066

Likes: 0

From: Oxnard, CA

2000 SD250 Rear Blocks

hummm.... taper.... which end which way?

i have a set of 4" blocks on order.... my truck sits tail down and i wanted to bring it level.... so am swaping out the 2" blocks for 4" ones as soon as i get em.

did you have any problems with rear shocks not being long enough after you made the switch? i assume if i run into this problem i could cut and rotate the shock mounts higher.

Feb 8, 2002 | 08:39 AM

#18

odie780

Senior User

Joined: Oct 2001

Posts: 249

Likes: 0

From: TX

2000 SD250 Rear Blocks

>Some history on the "why":
>In '99 both the F250s and F350s came with 4" rear blocks.
>But, some of the people who tow 5th-wheels and goose-neck
>trailers had a rough time getting their trailers to sit
>level on the new (extra tall) Super Duties. So, Ford
>offered a swap-out program (for a while) where they would
>change your 4" blocks to 2" ones. Starting in 2000, all
>F250s had the 2" blocks... BUT F350s still have the 4" ones.
>

NoMo you sadi that all F350's came with the 4" block this is not a corect statement. I ordered my truck and knowing that I would need to lower it to tow my 5er. When the truck came in it already had the 2" blocks on it. I am not sure if it was the combination of what I ordered. I tried to order it in a maner that I got the highest GVWR I could since I hate to see a truck sag with a cord of wet wood on her. I asummed that I got the 2" blocks because of eiter the camper package or the towing package not sure.

Feb 8, 2002 | 11:15 AM

#19

leftlane

Junior User

Joined: Mar 2001

Posts: 53

Likes: 0

2000 SD250 Rear Blocks

>hummm.... taper.... which end which way?
>

Yeah, plumr, I want to know this, too. I'm assuming that you used the existing U bolts, but I don't know. Haven't crawled underneath mine to see if there's another 2" of thread to be used.

Feb 8, 2002 | 11:31 AM

#20

plumr

Thread Starter

Junior User

Joined: Dec 2001

Posts: 92

Likes: 0

2000 SD250 Rear Blocks

I used new U-bolts which I bought from Ford. I also add another leaf spring and still have plenty of thread left over for more springs if I want them. The stock U-bolts that you get with the 2"blocks won't work on the 4" blocks. And like I said the blocks are tapered ever so slightly and if you install them backwards the will point your diff. towards the ground and all kinds of funny noises start showing up...

Feb 8, 2002 | 12:21 PM

#21

mikeking

Junior User

Joined: Dec 2001

Posts: 59

Likes: 0

From: Houston USA

2000 SD250 Rear Blocks

I bought new U Bolts just because they weren't that expensive and with suspension parts, I figure better safe than sorry. (the U-Bolts do stretch a little when you torque them). However, my truck had the longer U-bolts on it. Not sure why. There are two different part numbers for the U-bolts so if you have the longer ones it will work but for $50 I got all new U-bolts and nuts.

I don't know about the shocks because I put a Trailmaster 3" leveling kit on the front (ground to wheel well in front-42.5 inches after lift and new BFG 285/75's, back-43.5 after blocks and tires) and the leveling kit came with 4 new shocks.

I read the post about the taper...I didn't find any. There is only one part number so I would think Ford would designate them Driver/Passenger or something if it made a difference. Or maybe I just lucked out and got one left and one right when I ordered the parts and lucked out again when I put them on my truck by guessing correctly which one went on which side.

Feb 8, 2002 | 01:41 PM

#22

rob_n_houston

Senior User

Joined: Apr 2000

Posts: 158

Likes: 0

2000 SD250 Rear Blocks

The whole 2" 4" block thing is confusing. On my 99.5 CC 4x4 LB I think I have the "2" inch blocks. However they're more like 1 3/4". I went to order the 4" blocks from a f350, well they were just under 3". I know because I looked at it and measured it. The parts guy found no other part number for a 350 or 250 that was bigger. About $40 each if I recall for 1" plus I needed new bolts.

I went with a skyjacker (I think it was skyjacker something). A 2" stack block kit was about $75, bolts, nuts, complete. Some don't like stacking blocks, for the front it's a no-no. I haven't had a problem for 2 years now. Also if you go this route go 1/2"-1" MORE than you think. It'll sag after a while. I wish I had gotton a 3" or at least a 2.5" kit. Oh also this add a block has a tit that locks in with the OEM block and the leaf center bolt.

BTW the taper on the factory block goes toward the front (IE small side front).

Good Luck,
Rob

Feb 15, 2002 | 04:00 PM

#23

mikeking

Junior User

Joined: Dec 2001

Posts: 59

Likes: 0

From: Houston USA

2000 SD250 Rear Blocks

My '2"' block was also less than 2". But my 4 inch block was almost 4". Not quite but 3.5 or better. Either way, it raised my truck 2" in the back which was what I wanted. The reason the 2 isn't 2 and the 4 isn't 4 is because they are really metric measurements and we just call them 2 and 4 because it's easier for everyone to understand.