First, I think previous post was recomending thos gaskets with a header change.

Second, I am pretty sure stock manifolds are not supposed to use gaskets. they should be milled flat. if you are having this much trouble I would really suggest going to headers or getting some new manifolds. I can't recall ever using gasket on the head to manifold surface. I may be wrong, but I just don't think this is right.


Scotty

 

FERacing my headmans cost me $130 through jegs

 

the 3/4 ton factor wont matter but the 4 WD might not for sure and im happy with my headmans

 

exhaust manifolds are suppose to have gaskets wether they are stock or not

 

Actually, stock FE manifolds don't have gaskets, they have heat shields for the sparkplugs. They are meant to be metal on metal.

 

I milled the stock manifolds, milled the exhaust flange on the heads, use no gaskets (a little silicon) and have tortured the setup by towing a 7,000# trailer in the Texas heat running a 352 w/4:56 gear for over 40,000 miles. THAT works!

 

Ya, possibly, I'm not complaining, was worth a shot. Just wanted to relay my experience/troubles in case it helps someone...

ya, I'm in a bind tho, truck is a daily driver, and machine shops are closed on weekends.
I want to go to headers, but, my better half thinks it's more fun to see me spend 12 bux and an hour in the garage every 6 weeks rather than ~$100 on a set of FlowTechs once...

I should find a way to take the pants from her and order the headers... .

 

wy redneck, did your header ports match up with your head ports? that is my biggest concern.

 

Actually they do sell exhaust manifold gaskets for FE and I have seen them. A lot of people just put the manifold to the head (metal to metal) and that probably works fine but they do sell gaskets, 2 different port sizes too. You can get them at NAPA.

 

I've been running the flotechs for about 8 months now, with no problems at all. They are of the split tube design on the pass side, and I have never had a problem with heat soak. As far as the split tubes, I just ground off the paint where they slip together, and used a liberall amount of acousti-seal (napa) and have had NO LEAKS ! About once a month, as I do "routine maint" I just snug up the bolts, and, as of late, no movement. Got them for 99.00 at CSK

 

cleanLX:
Sorry to hear about your tranny. I paid $160 for my Hedman Headers and $50 for a roll of header wrap and $40 for a set of compressable gaskets--no leaks, no starter problems. Those gaskets are worth every penny--they are like three sheets of thin aluminum that compress when you tighten the header bolts and they're also re-usable!

 

CrazyAirman,
Great.
Interesting to hear the FlowTechs are slip fit.
Was install a snap?
Do they have a 3-bolt flange at the collector?
Did they come with bolts and gaskets?

my1970f100,
Ya, tranny sucks. Lucky for me, a guy in our Mustang club builds all the c4's/c6's for a local Cottman's, and does race tranny on the side. He's offer'd to rebuild mine for half the cost of any local tranny shop, and do some nifty little extra's while he's in there. Some times you do luck out... if you can figure needing to rebuild the tranny lucky... sigh...
I've seen some posts of people recommending the copper gaskets. I'll have to try 'em out.

 

Say, is your truck an automatic or a standard? I've got the three-on-the-tree and am wondering if the cheap flowtech jobbies will interfere. I know they work fine with the autos.

 

I've had flowtech on since Dec. Only problem is a stripped bolthole on driversdie by firewall so I blow gaskets daily if I replaced them that often. I just leave it leaking until I get the Edel's. As far as heat soak...not a problem yet. I had more trouble putting them on than anything else. Had to lift motor and take passengerside mount off. Engine hoist didn't want to lift high enough so I had to flatten tires to get motor far enough away from mount to slip header on. Driverside was easy took an hour tops. I can remove starter without removing header. As far as 4x4 vs.2x4 the 4x4 header is about an inch longer and sits about 2 inches closer to the ground to clear a crossmember. I know because the idiot at the parts store odered the wrong ones first time. If you have 2x4 both should fit just the 4x4 sit lower and MAY exit in front of a crossmember.

 

Yeah, she's an automatic. Install took about an hour total, very easy. I had been spraying penitrating oil everyday for a week before I took off the logs. All bolts and gaskets were included, and they are standard three bolt flanges at the collector. I will admit to cheating some, cutting off the end of the flanges, and bump up the 2.5 inch pipe to fit tight, and weld em up (I run an exhaust shop) siamese the pipes on the pass side, into a dual in, single three inch out flowmaster. SWEET!!