Its really easy to forget this forum is more than just an IDI board haha. I realize this is off topic some but still Ford so Not officially in my driveway, but pulled the trigger on a 69 Fairlane 302/C4. As i understand it the F code is a 2v 10.5:1 220hp (gross or net im not sure) 302 PO's said it scoots right along, but i have a slightly different defenition of "scooting" Will be on a pretty hardcore budget, buying a house, new job, fixing on the 92 etc. But just wondering if i could do anything simple and or easy to add some ponies without opening a can of worms. Im pretty illiterate when it comes to small blocks, was thinking something like GT40p heads with a nice high rise dual plane like a stealth. No idea what the stock cam is, nor whether id gain much with something else.

If ive decoded the vin right it has something crazy like a 2.65 rearend in, so until i get a 9" thrown together, will probably be like that for a minute. Which actually is fine by me until i similarly get an AOD thrown together because i want to drive this thing. In other words, some low end grunt probably will serve it well (dual plane and GT40ps) As for carb, still budget minded, but something good, heard good things about the street avengers, but been playing with diesels a while now. Headers go without saying.

For kicks, i dont want too much into the mill, few years or so id like to see a coyote sitting in there. Also, sorry the post is so long, its late.

 

Not sure about this link. Shows "F" to be a 260, which can't be in a '69:

1967 FORD FAIRLANE Information Specifications Resources Pictures

As for the 302 it looks like they rated it at 220 HP, but 1969 was still the old gross HP rating system, to figure it was closer to 190 hp net, maybe more maybe less. As for compression, since it was a 2bbl standard motor, I would doubt it was 10.5 CR, probably 9.5. I can't find anything reliable but some stuff rings a bell as I remember reading all the claimed stats for these when I was 15 and 16....

Ford 302 V8 Engine Specs, 302 Engine Information, Firing Order : Engine Facts.com

Headers, balance tube, duals, intake and 600ish carb will wake it up. Do the Pertronix or later model Ford electronic ignition.

I used to run my 289 to 5500 rpms, maybe hold yours to 5000.

If you decide to cam it and run it harder upgrade your rod bolts at least. Screw in studs, the right cam and springs and you'll be ok to 7000.

There are tons of 300 and 400 horse 302 build articles from every publication known to man. Most of them fairly inexpensive as these things go and most are actually correct.

 

Thanks, i know about the weak rod bolts. Thinking of keeping it mildish rpm wise, just lookin for some easy hp (if there is such a thing) The things you listed were what i had in mind, just wondering if a later model cylinder head will help. Just want a strong mid range small block, 2500-5k From what im finding mine is 10.1 or 10.5:1 The higher output version is 10.5:1, some say theyre the same others the base is slightly lower. Would love to find some specs on the stock cam.

 

The 69 302 2 bbl motors had 9.5 to 1 compression ratios. The 68 4 bbl motor had a 10.5 to 1 ratio. The 4 bbl motor for 69 was the Boss 302 which had completely different heads (Cleveland) The stock cam specs ? Lift was not much, duration ? Not long. Stick a comp cams 268H in it and call it good. Anything wilder than that and you'll pull the pressed in rocker studs outta the heads.

 

Thanks for the input, would the stock valve springs handle that cam? Off to look it up now. From what im gathering the heads should be fine?

 

Yea the 268H is OK with stock springs (as long as they're not the original ones) If they're old springs, you'd do better changing to fresh springs. The heads ? They're OK, but nothing to write home about. If you really want to wake it up, you'd need to do replace the heads, cam and intake. But the bottom end may not handle the power increase (rings and rod bolts)

 

If you really want bang for the buck, do the 268H with new springs and replace the 2 bbl 2100 carb with a 500 cfm Holley and leave the intake as is. You can pick up a used Holley 500 for less than $100 on ebay. Holley used to advertise that this was a 20-25 hp increase alone. I've run this carb on 4 different Fords and never regretted it. Probably the most reliable Holley made.

 

Was thinking high rise dual plane 4bbl intake, smaller primary long tubes and something like a 570 street avenger, but that might be too much carb. Im far from an expert ive just heard good things about the explorer GT40P heads, also, pretty sure i can find some in a junkyard. No vacuum booster, so no issues with a nice choppy cam. Want to keep the stock converter for now (no idea what it is either) as i will get a converter with trans swap. Also dont want to dig into the bottom end, yet anyway, maybe when i do the trans swap. So to sum up, i guess im after carb, intake, headers, and cam for now.

As for the valve springs, im 99% sure theyre the originals, as the car was owned by and elderly couple and only has 57k on it. Would really like to not have to buy springs.

 

. I'm basically a GM guy, but have to admit the SBF's seem to have a little better stock rods... I built my 351W up to 425 HP using stock rods, bolts, crank... 10.5:1 compression ratio... it's in a boat, so I run it WOT for several minutes at a time occasionally... been running it for about 22 years now... of course, a 351W is a tall deck 302W... these guys show a stock 351W bottom end can handle over 1,000 HP...:


How to Push a Junkyard 351 Windsor Past 1,000 HP! - Big-Bang 351W


. I'm with you, 4 bbl. carb., high rise airgap intake (non-airgap if running in winter), 1 1/2"-1 5/8" headers, dual exhaust/mufflers... can prolly find a 550-650 CFM carb. that looks like new at a swap for cheap (I love the Holley 750 on my 351W)... maybe even an intake... with stock converter, compression ratio, and 2.65 rear, I'd keep cam size down to about 204/204 - 208/216 (.050" lift) duration range for now(stock about 194/204)... (don't want a cam that won't pull till 2500-3000 RPMs)... the '69 heads prolly still have the larger valves in them... so not so much need for GT40 heads... after about '71 they went to tiny valves, small ports, and A.I.R. blocked ports... even in 351W's... if the stock valve springs can't reach 6000 or so RPMs without pumping up the lifters on the stock cam, get some slightly stiffer ones... like 80-100 lbs. closed, 260-290 lbs. open... can change valve springs yourself with about a $5 lever tool heads on or $29 C-type tool heads off...


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k3600

 

:

69 302 heads do not have the larger valves in them. The 69-74 351W heads had the larger (1.84 vs 1.78 for the 302, so they're not that much bigger) valves. The exhausts were 1.54 vs 1.45 for the 302. The GT40P's also had the smaller of the two valves on the exhaust side. And the ports on the intake side also were not that much different. He doesn't want to get too wild on cam profile and spring pressures with the stock pressed in rocker studs.

 

Also keep in mind the P heads have the different spark plug angle that's going to limit your header choices. And I would definitely change those 46 year old valve springs. They're nowhere near as stiff as they were new.(which wasn't stiff to start with)

 

Thanks for the pointers guys, much appreciated

 

. I seem to remember something about the GT40 heads on the Exploders being superior to the others, but weren't sold over the counter... don't recall the details... also, in a magazine test, they made more power on a 351W than the stock big valve World Windsor Sr. heads...

 

More power than Windsor Sr's ? No...................... They were the best production heads with the exception of the Boss 302 heads. The Ford Racing aluminum GT40 heads outshined the iron production GT40 heads. They're OK heads, better than the run of the mill 289/302/351W heads, but they fall short of just about anything else in the aftermarket

 

So, what im asking then is, if i find and explorer 5.0 (from what years?) and i can get the heads for 50-100, is it worth pulling and installing them? Can i assume they dont have pressed in rocker studs, and probably better rockers? Secondly, I have a buddy that is amateur but decent at head work who could help em out a little without breaking the bank to make it even more worthwhile. At the very least, if i was that far i could port match em.

Dropping 1k on heads is not happenin, i can live with it until i decide on a 351 stroker build or coyote swap. Which goes for screw in studs and roller rockers as well, and preferably valve springs lol