94 Expl won't start!!!!
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94 Expl won't start!!!!
Hi folks! ...A newbee here. Info on this site has been super helpful in the past. I'm hoping that trend continues...
My 94 Explr (6 cyl, 2wd) won't start. Battery is fine (lights, etc function properly); starter functions properly, but it won't kick over.
Don't hear the usual whir of the fuel pump upon turning the ignition. Eau de gasoline? ..nope, not even a whiff.
Changed the fuel pump regulator (.. bought at the local Ford dealerdhip ($10)) .....no luck.
Don't think it matters, but you never know... I recent cleaned crud off the battery posts with a baking soda/water mix. There is a thin residue on/around the battery; don't think this would have had any consequence.
Also, and quite oddly, with the igition turned, the front wipers operate..even though the switch is off! This hasn't happened before. Coincidence? Don't know for sure, but I doubt it.
Any ideas for me to try before I have the beast towed to the repair shop?
My 94 Explr (6 cyl, 2wd) won't start. Battery is fine (lights, etc function properly); starter functions properly, but it won't kick over.
Don't hear the usual whir of the fuel pump upon turning the ignition. Eau de gasoline? ..nope, not even a whiff.
Changed the fuel pump regulator (.. bought at the local Ford dealerdhip ($10)) .....no luck.
Don't think it matters, but you never know... I recent cleaned crud off the battery posts with a baking soda/water mix. There is a thin residue on/around the battery; don't think this would have had any consequence.
Also, and quite oddly, with the igition turned, the front wipers operate..even though the switch is off! This hasn't happened before. Coincidence? Don't know for sure, but I doubt it.
Any ideas for me to try before I have the beast towed to the repair shop?
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From: UT
Re: 94 Expl won't start!!!!
Originally posted by miketest
Also, and quite oddly, with the igition turned, the front wipers operate..even though the switch is off! This hasn't happened before. Coincidence? Don't know for sure, but I doubt it.
Also, and quite oddly, with the igition turned, the front wipers operate..even though the switch is off! This hasn't happened before. Coincidence? Don't know for sure, but I doubt it.
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I just had this problem with my 1993 Explorer (w/o the wiper blade thing).
I checked the fuel pump relay, intertial switch, fuel pump itself (if you attatch power to it directly it runs) and all check out fine. The last connector before the fuel pump is not getting any power when I hit the ignition switch (I know it only does for like 3-5 secs normally).
I was curious how the trip to the repair shop turned out....or where this ground mrshorty was talking about is located.
Thanks in advance.
I checked the fuel pump relay, intertial switch, fuel pump itself (if you attatch power to it directly it runs) and all check out fine. The last connector before the fuel pump is not getting any power when I hit the ignition switch (I know it only does for like 3-5 secs normally).
I was curious how the trip to the repair shop turned out....or where this ground mrshorty was talking about is located.
Thanks in advance.
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BEFORE YOU SPEND A TON OF MONEY TRY THIS. GO GET A TUBE OF DIELECTIC GREASE.FROM UNDER THE HOOD PULL ONE RELAY/FUSE AT A TIME OUT AND GREASE IT AND THE SOCKET,REPLACE THE FUSE/RELAY. PAY ATTENTION TO THE RELAYS. PROCEED TO START YOUR CAR. SMILE, I JUST SAVED YOU A BUNCH OF MONEY & FRUSTRATION. THE CATCH IS. NOW YOU OWN A $10.00 TUBE OF GREASE, KEEP IT IN YOUR GLOVEBOX. YOU MAY BE ABLE TO HELP OUT A BUDDY. YOU WILL SOON BE IDOLIZED BY YOUR EXPLORER PEERS.
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Haven't caved yet... 'dead' trk still in driveway. Repeated unsuccessful attempts to start the engine after numerous system changes (...fuses, relays, etc.) is draining the battery. But I'm gonna keep try everything reasonably possible before I throw in the towel and have it towed.
Pump ground... not sure where this is. Bought Haynes book for help. Best as I can tell, it appears there is a ground strap connected to the frame near the tank. mrshorty, is that the connection you were referring to?
I'm still searching for the intertia switch... book's brief descritpion isn't helping me much.
2004supacrewlariat: dielectric grease? ...interesting. A dielectric substance is, by definititon, electrically insulating. ..So, if I've properly captured your advice, you're suggesting I coat the terminals and sockets - intended to be as electrically conductive as possible - with an electrically insulating substance???? Right then, thanks for your input.
Still open to [reasonable] suggestions...
Pump ground... not sure where this is. Bought Haynes book for help. Best as I can tell, it appears there is a ground strap connected to the frame near the tank. mrshorty, is that the connection you were referring to?
I'm still searching for the intertia switch... book's brief descritpion isn't helping me much.
2004supacrewlariat: dielectric grease? ...interesting. A dielectric substance is, by definititon, electrically insulating. ..So, if I've properly captured your advice, you're suggesting I coat the terminals and sockets - intended to be as electrically conductive as possible - with an electrically insulating substance???? Right then, thanks for your input.
Still open to [reasonable] suggestions...
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Believe what you wish. I have a co-worker that has a 94 explorer. He was under the hood one day after work. I took out the dielectic grease and his started right up too. Just trying to be a help. I don't think overspendind money is "reasonable". If that's not the problem, it likley will be sometime. You can thank me later.
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From: UT
The fuel pump ground for my '92 was actually under the hood. bolted to the body on the passenger side near the washer fluid reservoir/radiator overflow tank. I suspect that ground strap by the gas tank just prevents static buildup when filling the tank.
Inertia switch is inside the "cab", near the passenger's feet, under the carpet, bolted to the firewall, just to the side of the transmission hump.
Inertia switch is inside the "cab", near the passenger's feet, under the carpet, bolted to the firewall, just to the side of the transmission hump.
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OK, I spelled it wrong. Specifically it is Motorcraft XG-3 Silicone brake caliper grease AND dielectric compound. Meets ford material spec ESB_M1C171-b.
By the way, I checked the enertia switch too. That was not the problem. I used the grease that you do not seem to believe will work. I have had no problem of reoccurance in the last year and a half. The directions say to coat the entire inside of your spark plug boots before you push them on. Must not be conductive? Better get on the horn to Ford and let them know they made a big mistake!
Again...Thank me later http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/electconnect.html
By the way, I checked the enertia switch too. That was not the problem. I used the grease that you do not seem to believe will work. I have had no problem of reoccurance in the last year and a half. The directions say to coat the entire inside of your spark plug boots before you push them on. Must not be conductive? Better get on the horn to Ford and let them know they made a big mistake!
Again...Thank me later http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/electconnect.html
Last edited by 2004supacrewlariat; Feb 22, 2004 at 03:05 PM.
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Okay... I stand corrected! I'll check it out ...the dielectric grease, that is. I appreciate your help, 2004supacrewlariat.
Inertia switch... found it, checked it out; not the problem.
Also checked to ensure the spark plugs were firing... nothing fancy, no meters; used starter fluid into the intake. Engine fired right up, didn't run for long of course. But the fact that it fired up says spark plugs and the balance of the ignition circuit is functioning.
The ground near the reservoir: found it, didn't have time to do much with it, will do more tomorrow. Managed to check it out with a volt meter though.... and i'm suspicious of it. Reason: if the ground is working properly, there ought be the same voltage difference btwn the battery + and the ground as there is btwn the + and the - terminal. The meter didn't register any difference... suggests to me that the ground is not grounding properly...
I'm cautiously optimistic about this.. will tinker with the ground tomorrow and advise...
Thanks again for your continued assistance!
Inertia switch... found it, checked it out; not the problem.
Also checked to ensure the spark plugs were firing... nothing fancy, no meters; used starter fluid into the intake. Engine fired right up, didn't run for long of course. But the fact that it fired up says spark plugs and the balance of the ignition circuit is functioning.
The ground near the reservoir: found it, didn't have time to do much with it, will do more tomorrow. Managed to check it out with a volt meter though.... and i'm suspicious of it. Reason: if the ground is working properly, there ought be the same voltage difference btwn the battery + and the ground as there is btwn the + and the - terminal. The meter didn't register any difference... suggests to me that the ground is not grounding properly...
I'm cautiously optimistic about this.. will tinker with the ground tomorrow and advise...
Thanks again for your continued assistance!
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Just wanted to update everybody on mine. Hooked up a diagnostic computer and got error code 547 Fuel Pump Ckt Open-ECA to GND.
I'm pretty sure it is a grounding issue, and will know a little more later in the day. I don't think the grease is going to help me out a whole lot since I can feel the relays in that fuse box functioning when I hit the key....but I'll shove some in there anyway.
I'm pretty sure it is a grounding issue, and will know a little more later in the day. I don't think the grease is going to help me out a whole lot since I can feel the relays in that fuse box functioning when I hit the key....but I'll shove some in there anyway.
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Tinkered with (disconnected, cleaned, reconected) gound near PDB... no luck.
Code 547... does that indicate an electrical problem internal to the pump (...i.e, internal pump circuit failure, requiring pump replacement), or a failure in the circuit external to the pump?
I've exhausted all the relatively easy things to check. Anxious to read more on your findings, djskinnyb. Will also try the grease.
Code 547... does that indicate an electrical problem internal to the pump (...i.e, internal pump circuit failure, requiring pump replacement), or a failure in the circuit external to the pump?
I've exhausted all the relatively easy things to check. Anxious to read more on your findings, djskinnyb. Will also try the grease.
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Okay, First thing is that I typed the wrong error code...542 is the correct one I was getting.
542 is saying that the ground connnection from the PCM to the fuel pump is not happening. To me that either sounds like the computer is not letting the fuel pump run to do some other problem....or there is a ground problem in that run of wiring.
I had no other error codes come up, so I figured it was some sort of ground trouble. I couldn't find it, so I gave up and ran it into the dealership and they were having worse luck than I when I checked on 'em. With the miles I have on it, I can't afford to have the shop play with it for a week so I guess I'm at a loss on this one.
PS- Oh yeah, It is external to the pump mike. I had already dropped the gas tank and changed the pump (was about due for a new one anyway), and the old pump worked fine when you put power directly to it.....just no power to that last connector on the wiring harness.
542 is saying that the ground connnection from the PCM to the fuel pump is not happening. To me that either sounds like the computer is not letting the fuel pump run to do some other problem....or there is a ground problem in that run of wiring.
I had no other error codes come up, so I figured it was some sort of ground trouble. I couldn't find it, so I gave up and ran it into the dealership and they were having worse luck than I when I checked on 'em. With the miles I have on it, I can't afford to have the shop play with it for a week so I guess I'm at a loss on this one.
PS- Oh yeah, It is external to the pump mike. I had already dropped the gas tank and changed the pump (was about due for a new one anyway), and the old pump worked fine when you put power directly to it.....just no power to that last connector on the wiring harness.
Last edited by djskinnyb; Feb 24, 2004 at 04:54 PM.
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From: Cincinnati
The computer monitors the point just after the relay. By doing this they can look to see if there is voltage after the relay has been told to close. This checks power, fuse and relay. This input also has a high value pullup resistor to check continuity to ground after the relay. Since the pump looks almost like a dead short to this resistor, the voltage stays low when the computer checks before the relay closes. This checks the continuity of the connectors, inertia switch, motor and ground connection. Everything after the relay.
So, a pump with a stuck brush will also give this code.
So, a pump with a stuck brush will also give this code.
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From: CT
My problem was the relay. Although they all look the same and evan have the same markings, note the tiny little model number. The relays are different and you have to go to Ford to get the right one. Autozone just tosses you a relay. In this case, the factory part is the ONLY way to go. Ask for this specific relay. Same problem with my ABS. There are two relays for that, hydraulic and electronic. ABS light no longer comes on and it works fine. Lesson learned: better to drop 13 bucks at Ford than 11 bucks at Autozone only to end up at a Ford dealer anyway. You get what you pay for when dealing with 'trons.
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From: in a house
won't start eh ?
I had this problem on my '94 exploder, and at first changing the fuel pump relay did it- but then I bypassed the relay with a switch, this worked for a couple of months..... But alas it reared it's ugly head once again. Then purely out of frustration I changed the ECC or is it EEC (computer ) relay just to see what happened, and that fixed it. I haven't had that problem in over a year.
Now I carry 2 relays in my center console- just in case - but haven't need em yet. They're only $5 each.
Now I carry 2 relays in my center console- just in case - but haven't need em yet. They're only $5 each.