well Ive been to the dealer 2 more times since my last post
the rattles and creaks are getting worse-- there would be no more than a few seconds of quiet between rattles while driving

It amazes me how it can go to the dealer for a problem and atually come back worse than it went in!

On the first of my most recent trips to the dealer--the idiots actually worked on the wrong doors--they worked on my already queit drivers side doors-- yep guess what--now my drivers doors make noise- wtf

so Iam duck taping the latches again-- so that makes 8 times that 2 different dealers have worked on the doors
I give up

 

I don't know anything about the door rattles you have.

I do know that the best thing for squeaky doors is a totally dry lube. It's like a sillica powder. The stock seals come with it on, as far as I know. What happens often is when you wash or dress the seals with something wet, that's what makes the squeaks.

I have no idea where you get the dry lube, ask the dealer if they can get it. The body shop might know about it.

 

I will say up front, this may/may not be your issue. God knows everyone hears different types of rattles, but....

My 2002 F350 Supercab would have an annoying rattle from time to time. Some days worse than others. Sometimes, open and close the door again and it would go away for a little bit.

Bear with me here....

My girlfriend has a Blazer S10, 140,000 miles (explorer will be the replacement when this beast gives up).. it had a really annoying squeak rattle that echoed throughout the cabin. Powdered every seal and gasket. No more rattle, for about 2 days then it was back. I decided that it had nothing to do with the obvious culprit and something else was going on. Long story short, the latch for the rear window was causing the noise. It was metal on metal noise. It seems that the latch was wearing away at the catch and this rubbing or bumping was causing it.

Using the same logic, I went to the F350, inspected the latching mechanism for the doors, and notice a little bit of wear on the catch, but nothing major. I took out a little bit of hockey tape and made one pass around the receiver, on the driver side. I left the passenger side bare. Took her out for a few bumps, and guess what? Driver side, no rattle. Passenger, rattle. So, I pulled over. Put the hockey tape on passenger side and drove home. No rattle whatsoever.

Now, not saying this is your issue, but it was mine and the solution was the simple stupid kind. Now, I just need to find a kevlar tape and use a thin layer.

Hope this helps.....

 

He already tried that method.... He actually moved the striker plate inward for tightening door seals, Instead of useing tap...if your tape ever wears out.. there are many posts on this procedure... even in this thread

 

I am still at it. For almost 2 weeks now I have been waiting on the dealership to get me in touch with the Ford Rep just to get an appointment.

I have recieved no calls.

If I dont get satisfaction, I am seriously thinking about making a sticker that says. "I bought this truck new at banner ford. They wont fix it. " If I keep the truck for 10 years, that would be a lot of advertising.

I really want to dump this thing at this point but hate to lose all the money that I have put into it. Lets face it these things arent cheap; hence the dissatisfaction.

Is this also an issue with the 350? Most of the people that have posted issues have 250's.

 

Double post

 

I've been following this for too long, and up until now, I've bit my tongue. The way I see it, you have two choices.

1- Get over it. It's a truck, it's gonna rattle and squeak a bit. I find it VERY hard to believe that after trying all the suggestions on this board the squeaking is still so bad that the average person would even notice over the sound of the 7.3 diesel. If you're fixated on it and can't get over it, go to option 2.

2- Sell the truck and take your loss. You'll obviously never be happy, so go buy a dudge or chebbie and try your luck there.

Either way, just quit whining about it and do something. Take it to another dealer, or wait and see what Ford has to say, but I'm guessing you aren't going to like it.

You can make all the signs about Banner Ford you want. Best case for you they'll just ignore it, worst case, you'll wind up in court. It's not like they haven't tried and been accomodating to you.

Time to move on.

Kannata

 

Adding # 3 to Kannata's list.
Turn up the radio!

 

I have a 2004 SD Crew Cab long bed. At about 2000 miles, I started noticing excessive door gasket noise on all 4 doors. The noise was most noticeable when driving slowly on slightly uneven ground (such as a parking lot) and would vary in intensity with temperature change.
The noise was due to the upper door gasket used to channel water away from the primary door seal. Ford chose a gasket made of firm rubber that doesn’t flex with small movements of the door. Large movements experienced while driving at regular speeds cause the door to slip past the rubber and produce less noise. Unfortunately, silicone lubricants and the such are only temporary as they eventually soak into the rubber or wipe off with cleaning.
I completely eliminated the noise with a $7.50 investment. Purchase a roll of ¾” wide x 4.5 mil thick UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) tape and apply it to the inside of the door where the gasket makes contact. Auto manufacturers use this type of tape to prevent paint damage where convertible tops contact paint below the rear window. The tape is similar to Teflon except more durable and transparent. On my truck the tape is completely invisible. Since the front door curves at the top of the pillar, I suggest applying the tape in temperatures above 60F so it will conform without wrinkling. I taped all four doors and have never heard another squawk, even in temperatures down to 10F. UHMW tape is available from href="/lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mcmastercarr.com,">www.mcmastercarr.com, part number 76445A712.

 

I mailed my letter to ford today to see what they have to say. The ford rep never did call to make an appointment.

I love ford customer service. It has to be the best at being the worst.

Kannata: if you think that banner ford has been accomidating by spraying silicone all over the doors (inside and out) and the dash (twice), sanding a car next to my truck so that it was returned to me with an inch of dust on one side, calling me to tell me parts were in only to find that they werent when I got there, leaving my truck somewhere to collect rocks on the hood, promising me 7 times that it was fixed but I can hear the noise before I make the turn to get out of the parking lot, and keeping my truck for 7 weeks, then I can only assume that you like visits to the proctologist.

I think that I have been more than accomidating to ford and banner ford. Never once did I raise my voice to any of those people. I want what I want. I did not buy a kia. I bought a ford where quality is job one and it is built ford tough. I dont think that a parking lot drain should make a tough vehicle flex so that my wife (arguably an normal person) can even hear the doors creak.

It seems that many people on this board have something productive to say about this or can at least say "yeah, I have that too and I have been trying to fix it."

Even though I am still fighting this battle, it is slowing down. I want to thank those that offered their support and advice.

knewt8794: I could not follow that link. Is it spelled properly?

 

Here are the facts about this problem with supercab noises. They are caused by cab flex and the upper door seals being to stiff. Ford will do nothing for you so you are gonna have to fix it yourself or sell the truck. Here is what I did to fix it on my truck. Use the tape that knewt8794 suggested, I used something else but his is a better fix. That will fix most of the noises. Also the door panels make a lot of noises also. Take them off and line the edges closest to the door striker with something. You can use adhesive backed foam rubber stuck on the door or do what I did. Get some 7/64 rubber line and cut it done the middle them line the edge of the door panel. This WILL FIX THE NOISES. It sucks that you have to fix something that is still new and is under warranty but this is what you are gonna have to do to fix it. You can spray whatever you want on the seals....it won't work. Good luck and any questions holla back at me.

 

Just do a google search with UHMW (ultra high molecular weight)

and you'll get hundreds of hits...

 

hey greg--just to let you know--Im still using the velcro on top doors--not only on the top edge but also I checked around the whole door(especially corners) and put small pieces of the velcro on all the spots where the door actually was rubbing on the body of the truck and wore the paint right thru---this along with constant cleaning and lubing of weatherstripping has mostly eliminated my creaks--the only down side is the velcro has started to wear and the glue backing sticks to the weatherstripping and pulls it right off when I open the door--I had to reglue all the weathersrtipping back on

I just have the damn latch rattles--its been "fixed" at 2 dealers and a body shop and would seem that the latch is to worn out at this point to be fixed--so im just wrapping in duct tape still
hmm..maybe I can find some shinny black duct tape--you would never notice it on there

Josh

 

It really is stupid that we have to be playing around with these noises on new vehicles. If you want you blood to boil go look at the new F-150. It has supports in the roof even for the models that have regular cabs with that itty bitty door that opens. Ford knows about the problem with the supercab 250-350's but unless they put supports in the roof like the crew cabs it will never be fixed right. Next time the dealer wants to spray junk on the door, offer to spray mace in his face and then ask him/her if his problems are fixed. I'm starting to really wonder about the old saying about ford.....
F%$#ed Over Rebuilt Dodge....lol

 

May try that next time