Water Pump Blues!
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Junior User
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From: FL
Water Pump Blues!
My water pump sounds like the bearings are squealing. My new found leak, only when the engine cools down, is coming from this. I do not want to risk being on the road.
Pulled out my Ford Service Manuals. It does not describe the procedure correctley (from what I can tell). Chiltons says loosen the p/s / a/c bracket to get to the bolts on the far right of the water pump.
My real question is, 'Can you loosen' these bolts and not remove the big bracket holding both the p/s pump & a/c compresser? From the looks of it, I would have to remove everything.
Please help
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From: FL
When you removed the whole bracket, did you remove the a/c lines and p/s lines?
I am concerned that I might kink a line or break one and I don't have the money to replace the lines or recharge my a/c.
I am concerned that I might kink a line or break one and I don't have the money to replace the lines or recharge my a/c.
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Loveland, CO.
Sorry -- I was thinking of replacing the PS pump. You will not have to get anything pulled from the bracket. But you will most likely need to pull the bracket holding the PS pump and the AC compressor off and out of the way. It's really not a big deal.
You do not have to remove the AC lines, that would be a costly mistake. You also should be able to leave the PS lines on. Just unbolt everything and tie it out of the way with a bungee cord or something, leaving the lines attached.
The trucks are notorious for having bolts and studs freeze in the block when changing the water pump. I would soak everything real well with Liquid Wrench or something for a couple of days before doing the job.
You do not have to remove the AC lines, that would be a costly mistake. You also should be able to leave the PS lines on. Just unbolt everything and tie it out of the way with a bungee cord or something, leaving the lines attached.
The trucks are notorious for having bolts and studs freeze in the block when changing the water pump. I would soak everything real well with Liquid Wrench or something for a couple of days before doing the job.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Loveland, CO.
BTW - removing the bracket with the pump and compressor attached is no big deal. Even if you could get the pump off without doing that, when they are off you will have much more room to work on the water pump.
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From: FL
JBronco, I appreciate your posts. I am going to try and put on the new water pump o\in about two weeks.
I will write and let you know how it went. I do agree with soaking the bolts for a few days. I will hit them with PB Blaster everyday until I can change.
Thanks again.
I will write and let you know how it went. I do agree with soaking the bolts for a few days. I will hit them with PB Blaster everyday until I can change.
Thanks again.
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From: Loveland, CO.
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From: FL
Just a quick note,
what is the type and class of the sealant you used to put on your water pump? and did you put it on the front and back of both gaskets?
My first water pump install.
what is the type and class of the sealant you used to put on your water pump? and did you put it on the front and back of both gaskets?
My first water pump install.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Loveland, CO.
I always use that Permatex copper stuff, I put it on both sides but not big globs of it, just coat the gasket with smooth coats of sealer and you should be fine. This will make up for any imperfections in the gasket or castings.
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Loveland, CO.
Follow the directions on the sealer tube. You are supposed to let it dry a little before installing the parts. I generally coat both sides of the gasket with my bare fingers so that it is coated but not all gloopy, wait a few minutes (with the "wet" gasket suspended from one of my fingers) and then install everything.
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From: FL
JBronco, I have been able to take everything off w/o breaking any of the studs (1wk w/PB Blaster everyday). It is in fact the original water pump I might add. My dilema now is how to get the old gasket off the housing on the engine. I tried a putty knife, but it is like steel on the housing. Also, when scrapping the gasket, I have chewed the metal on the housing.
After chewing up the housing, I went to NAPA. They make this stuff in a can called gasket remover - it doesn't remove anything.
Do you have any ideas about what I could do to get the gasket off?
P.S. The bracket holding the a/c comp. & p/s pump wasn't hard to move out of the way - yes it would have been a costly mistake if I would have removed the lines! Thanks for the HELP!
After chewing up the housing, I went to NAPA. They make this stuff in a can called gasket remover - it doesn't remove anything.
Do you have any ideas about what I could do to get the gasket off?
P.S. The bracket holding the a/c comp. & p/s pump wasn't hard to move out of the way - yes it would have been a costly mistake if I would have removed the lines! Thanks for the HELP!
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Loveland, CO.
No problemo. All I can tell you about the gasket is to keep soaking it with the remover and use the scraper carefully. A putty knife may be too flexible, I usually use a flat bladed screwdriver but the proper tool to use is a gasket scraper.
Another trick is to keep the old gasket soaked with regular motor oil as you are scraping, that will soften it and help keep from gouging the metal.
Another trick is to keep the old gasket soaked with regular motor oil as you are scraping, that will soften it and help keep from gouging the metal.
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From: FL
Everything went ok. Took me about 6.5 hours to scrap the gasket off using the Permatex Gasket Remover - not fun. Used my trusty dremel to clean the mating surface to a perfect shine once I was finished with the gasket. After that, it was all down hill.
She runs like a champ now. I sure do appreciate all the input, tips, and effort you put in to reply.
Thanks a million!!!
She runs like a champ now. I sure do appreciate all the input, tips, and effort you put in to reply.
Thanks a million!!!
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