Driveline Shudder
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Driveline Shudder
I am experiencing a major engine shudder when I try to accelerate especially when trying to merge onto the highway. I tried revving the engine in park and nuetral and there is no sign of it. I am wondering if it could be a bad u-joint.
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
I have the same problem though I'm on a manual transmission so it tends to be specific to a gear and rpm level than to the situation. 3rd and 4th tend to offer a lot of driveline shudder for me when I floor it at lower rpm levels 1st 2nd and 5th show no signs of it though. Once my engine has reached a higher speed (in the stronger part of her power band) it dissapears... I think my situation may have something to do with my fuel pump though. *shrug* it's not a major issue on my side of things my mechanic says it's just part of the van being 11 years old.
As for an automatic I'm not so sure but you may want to check your tranny fluid and maybe have your mechanic check your axle fluid and the rear differential.
As for an automatic I'm not so sure but you may want to check your tranny fluid and maybe have your mechanic check your axle fluid and the rear differential.
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From: Corpus Christi, Tx. 78418
diggy,
A bad U-joint could cause the van to shake, but you'd probably also notice a "clunking" sound when first putting the transmission into drive or reverse. Still, as the U-joints are relatively easy to check, check them for play.
Since you do not have the problem in park or neutral, you can probably eliminate fuel or ignition problems. Although, in park or neutral the engine is not under load conditions. I assume that the van idles smoothly.
The shudder on acceleration could be related to the transmission, the clutch or the rear end. Are you experiencing any other problems like slow shifting from gear to gear? If so, you might check the vacuum hose connected to the module on the transmission. It may be loose or leaking.
Just a thought.
Ron
A bad U-joint could cause the van to shake, but you'd probably also notice a "clunking" sound when first putting the transmission into drive or reverse. Still, as the U-joints are relatively easy to check, check them for play.
Since you do not have the problem in park or neutral, you can probably eliminate fuel or ignition problems. Although, in park or neutral the engine is not under load conditions. I assume that the van idles smoothly.
The shudder on acceleration could be related to the transmission, the clutch or the rear end. Are you experiencing any other problems like slow shifting from gear to gear? If so, you might check the vacuum hose connected to the module on the transmission. It may be loose or leaking.
Just a thought.
Ron
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Driveline Shudder
The tranny shifts very smoothly around town and as for the fluid it's fine. I just barely notice the shudder around town but on the highway it is very pronounced in the engine compartment as I accelerate and then seems to lessen as I get up to speed. I will check the driveshaft and u-joints for play this evening as you suggest. Thanx!
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Are you certain it is not severe misfiring causing the engine shudder? Deteriorated plug wires and/or plugs can cause this behaviour. Normal engine run up in park and neutral sounds suspiciously like bad plug wires. If you can't remember the last time they were changed, then they need it anyway. Try changing both plugs and wires and see what happens.
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Never thought of that! We had a newer F-150 back at the old construction comapny I used to work for and they put it in the shop one day and she came back all shuddery and crapped out but only in motion not idling. we took it back to the shop and found out thenumber 5 and 7 cylinders weren't firing because the plugs and wires they'd put in were bad.
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Driveline Shudder
It was tuned up in the summer of 2002, installed Bosch platinum tipped plugs that are supposed to be good for 60k miles. I replaced the O2 sensor and wires too. I have driven maybe 25k miles since then, I wonder if the coil pack is starting to go bad. It starts and idles just fine, you'd never know there was a problem until you put it in drive and got on the gas. How would you check the coil pack too see if it was putting out enough voltage?
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I don't know of a method to test the coil pack other than at a diagnostic center. My original wires lasted 8 years before giving out. I replaced them with a "premium" AutoZone store brand. Two years later the engine began acting up, similar to your description, but I refused to believe it could the wires since I had just replaced them. Found out the hard way that these high energy systems just eat cheap wires. Replaced them with a top line Bosch set and they are still going strong four years later.
Assuming your plug wires are in good shape, another possible cause would be a bad fuel pressure regulator, especially if your mileage is suffering. Pull off the vacuum line to the regulator and look for the presence of raw fuel in the line. If you find any, the regulator diaphram is breeched.
Assuming your plug wires are in good shape, another possible cause would be a bad fuel pressure regulator, especially if your mileage is suffering. Pull off the vacuum line to the regulator and look for the presence of raw fuel in the line. If you find any, the regulator diaphram is breeched.
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On a dark night or in the garage (you need it as pitch black as you can) run the engine with the hood up. Rev it up a second or two. If you have any electrical/ignition issues you will most likely see what and where. I had a problem with incorrect plug gap a while ago, my engine lit up like a christmas tree.
John
John
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Driveline Shudder
To AeroColorado.
Regarding the sparkplug wires. my mechanic replaced them with a brand he keeps in stock at his garage when he did the tuneup. I can imagine the quality is not very good, I have a set from Taylor that's been in my closet that I forgot about and I'm going to install them the first chance I get.
Regarding the sparkplug wires. my mechanic replaced them with a brand he keeps in stock at his garage when he did the tuneup. I can imagine the quality is not very good, I have a set from Taylor that's been in my closet that I forgot about and I'm going to install them the first chance I get.
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Driveline Shudder
Good day all,
I had my plugs and wires changed along with a new fuel filter. Significant improvement was made in the way it runs now, however there is still some kind of what seems to be a harmonic imbalance. I can feel it right under my feet and it is much more pronounced on the highway than around town. It is tolerable at the moment but I wonder if something is getting ready to let go. I have to check the u-joints and if they are okay I am wondering if it might be the flywheel.
I had my plugs and wires changed along with a new fuel filter. Significant improvement was made in the way it runs now, however there is still some kind of what seems to be a harmonic imbalance. I can feel it right under my feet and it is much more pronounced on the highway than around town. It is tolerable at the moment but I wonder if something is getting ready to let go. I have to check the u-joints and if they are okay I am wondering if it might be the flywheel.
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From: Vancouver
could also be the rear bushing in the back end of the transmision tail, if its worn the whole drive shaft can oscillate and the vibration will be more evident as speed increases, but almost or entirely gone at very low speeds. just had it done on my van, about $300, but now the clunk is gone when I go from reverse to drive ect.
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another problem could be a stuck lifter, that would also cause vibration caused by sludge in the motor, with the vehicle at operating temperature, empty 3/4 of a can of carb cleaner into the throttlebody reving up the motor just enough to keep it running, after you reach 3\4 of the can spray the rest of it in the throttle body causing it to stall, after the can is empty leave the van alone for 10 to 20 minutes, start it, you may have to pump it to let air into the combustion chamber to get it going, take for a drive accelerate fast, slow, fast ,slow and that will blow the crap out of the exhaust, I had this problem or similar before, it may not make any sense but I was suprised by the outcome.
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