Looking for a diesel Ford PU
#1
Looking for a diesel Ford PU
Hello all, I am in the market for a Ford diesel pickup and figured I could get some good info from the experts here on the Ford Forum.
What is the difference between the 7.3 liter diesel and the 7.3 liter powerstroke diesel? What is the dead giveaway visually when you look at the engine?
Is 175,000 miles on a 97 F250 put the truck which seems to be in very good condition otherwise out of the consideration window?
Any years or engines to avoid?
Any and all help would be greatly appriciated. I prefer to make a purchase as well educated as possible.
Thanks in advance for all your assistance and information.
What is the difference between the 7.3 liter diesel and the 7.3 liter powerstroke diesel? What is the dead giveaway visually when you look at the engine?
Is 175,000 miles on a 97 F250 put the truck which seems to be in very good condition otherwise out of the consideration window?
Any years or engines to avoid?
Any and all help would be greatly appriciated. I prefer to make a purchase as well educated as possible.
Thanks in advance for all your assistance and information.
#2
#3
Powerstrokes are newfangled technology that works more better.
I don't know the technical details, I know that they deliver more power, speed, and fuel economy. Ford engines should have decals on the passenger side that tell all. DIT = diesel injection technology. Older non-Powerstroke engines are something else (IDT?) Powerstrokes were born around 1994.
175,000 is not too many miles if the truck has been cared for. Some folks claim you can get 350,000 if you take care of it. What I would do (and did, actually) on a used truck:
1. have a shop do a thorough 'safety' or 'used-vehicle' inspection. Sometimes they are free, sometimes they cost money. They should check suspension, ball joints, u-joints if any, brake wear, look for leaks, check all fluid levels, look for grit inside the air intake, and have a knowledgeable person test-drive it. Wise old mechanics can tell more from a test-drive than any random person with a shop full of testing equipment.
If you can do all this yourself, cool.
2. you can test oil and anti-freeze yourself. An oil test will tell you a lot about the condition of the engine, http://www.blackstone-labs.com/. Anti-freeze should be strong, clean, and have the necessary SCA levels. or least some!
http://www.dieselpage.com/motorfw16.htm
I did not use the test kits when I bought my truck, because I did not know about them. I used the old-fashioned methods: take a good look at what comes out the tailpipe after a cold start, rub engine oil between the fingers, listen to and smell everything. If I ever buy another one, I'm going to be prepared with test kits.
And of course drive it all to heck, and crawl all over and under it when the engine is running. Use your handy 3-D cell Maglight, it's amazing what a little light will find.
I don't know the technical details, I know that they deliver more power, speed, and fuel economy. Ford engines should have decals on the passenger side that tell all. DIT = diesel injection technology. Older non-Powerstroke engines are something else (IDT?) Powerstrokes were born around 1994.
175,000 is not too many miles if the truck has been cared for. Some folks claim you can get 350,000 if you take care of it. What I would do (and did, actually) on a used truck:
1. have a shop do a thorough 'safety' or 'used-vehicle' inspection. Sometimes they are free, sometimes they cost money. They should check suspension, ball joints, u-joints if any, brake wear, look for leaks, check all fluid levels, look for grit inside the air intake, and have a knowledgeable person test-drive it. Wise old mechanics can tell more from a test-drive than any random person with a shop full of testing equipment.
If you can do all this yourself, cool.
2. you can test oil and anti-freeze yourself. An oil test will tell you a lot about the condition of the engine, http://www.blackstone-labs.com/. Anti-freeze should be strong, clean, and have the necessary SCA levels. or least some!
http://www.dieselpage.com/motorfw16.htm
I did not use the test kits when I bought my truck, because I did not know about them. I used the old-fashioned methods: take a good look at what comes out the tailpipe after a cold start, rub engine oil between the fingers, listen to and smell everything. If I ever buy another one, I'm going to be prepared with test kits.
And of course drive it all to heck, and crawl all over and under it when the engine is running. Use your handy 3-D cell Maglight, it's amazing what a little light will find.
#4
#5
i know a someone with over 1 million miles on a 93 and a 96 = if they put the additave in the collant at correct individuals then engine is ok on rust of cylender whalls. or if they run evens npt+ watterless collant. the inside colling is like new. lifetime collant never needs changed or additive.
#6
Thanks all! Is there anyone out there that can provide the bad casting numbers mentioned by shendoa. I am looking at several F250's in the 1994 to 1997 range. I prefer the supercab style. Sounds like I would have to have a really understanding seller to go the sample route. I need on ASAP anyway and I am a ASE certified tech anyway.
So, a 1994 or 1995 is a bad deal due to casting lameness? I am looking at a 1994 F350 with only 105,000 miles in very nice condition for around $8000.
I suppose it all boils down to past maintenance just like any other vehicle.
Any members know of any diesel trucks for sale in the central Texas area? Want to buy soon!
Andy at Fort Hood
So, a 1994 or 1995 is a bad deal due to casting lameness? I am looking at a 1994 F350 with only 105,000 miles in very nice condition for around $8000.
I suppose it all boils down to past maintenance just like any other vehicle.
Any members know of any diesel trucks for sale in the central Texas area? Want to buy soon!
Andy at Fort Hood
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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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01-22-2008 05:50 AM