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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 07:27 PM
  #16  
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Originally posted by hang10
In my case, they pooled $750.00 and took the motor.
However, I was done. That was the only motor I had.
This is exactly why I;m going to wait till the 2005 season. It will give me this full year & a couple months next year to biuld the right car(s). I'm wanting to build two so I can have one for a back-up. I suppose I could just keep another engine lying around, but with my crash record it might be better to have another car lying around.
$750.00? Better check IMCA. I know for the Hobby Stock the pay only $325.00 for a engine claim. I know the class I'm going to be running in will have to have pretty much stock OEM engines & parts. If thats the case, I may just buy higher displacement engines from the junk yard & run those. But then again the engine I choose will have to be available for the car I run, I think the 351W was a option for the LTD.



Originally posted by Racerguy
I'm the #55 in case you cant tell which is the Ford
Damn, that is a pretty car. Has it seen any track time? Looks like a new build to me.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 07:39 PM
  #17  
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Running a Ford is a good way to not get claimed

The picture there was near the beginning of last season.
Last year was our 3rd year with the T-Bird body. The 2 years before that we had a steel Fairmont body on it. We weren't allowed the fiberglass then. That means the car, other than the body, has 5 seasons on it. The body came off a CASCAR car. CASCAR is Canada'a top series. Their website is www.cascar.com

We built the car with the Fairmont body on it during the 1998 season after my wife wrote off our Crown Vic. She got run into the wall. I wanted to build a new car but not quite then. Oh well.
It all worked out ok in the end

Yes, she races too, against the men. The last 2 years she has won top points "B". Last year I missed top points "A" by one point
whine whine
I did get it the year before and set fast time last year too though so it wasnt thaaaat bad
 
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 07:45 PM
  #18  
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My cars when done will probally look like that #10 car in actuality. What is that anyway, the #10? Monte Carlo or Grand Prix.

I would think running a Ford will be better oportunity to get claimed. That way all the chevy cars will not have competition.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 08:15 PM
  #19  
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The #10 is a Malibu. Same car underneath as a Monte Carlo or Grand Prix or Regal or whatever.
I've heard that at a lot of tracks engines other than Chevs dont get claimed often at all because most tracks have a rule that if you claim an engine you have to run that engine the next race day.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 08:22 PM
  #20  
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Originally posted by hang10
Most tracks have a rule that they can "claim" your motor, or entire car for a certain amount of money. In essence, they give you the money and take the motor, or car. If you refuse the claim, they take all your points, make you repay all your winnings and strike you from the list as ever having won. In my case, they pooled $750.00 and took the motor. In return, I got to keep my trophies and the $3,200 I had won in the heats and features. However, I was done. That was the only motor I had.
Couldn't you demand a certain amount?
 
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 08:25 PM
  #21  
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Originally posted by Racerguy
The #10 is a Malibu. Same car underneath as a Monte Carlo or Grand Prix or Regal or whatever.
I've heard that at a lot of tracks engines other than Chevs dont get claimed often at all because most tracks have a rule that if you claim an engine you have to run that engine the next race day.
Unless they claim it for inspection. Then you basically sit around weeks, or whatever they decide until they supposedly tear it down and have someone run a micrometer over every nut and bolt. The dirt track I was at last year called it being 'teched'. You could put up the claim money and have and have someones motor 'teched'. That is what happened in my case. It took them 5 weeks to tear it apart. The rule said that the teched motor became the property of the track and could be bought by any other driver after the inspection. Obviously, no other driver wanted to buy mine because it was a Ford. Just a nice loophole used to get me off the track.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 08:27 PM
  #22  
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Originally posted by MW95F250
Couldn't you demand a certain amount?
Nope. The rules are the rules. You either take the money and let them pull the motor, or you go home and don't go back. Plus, return everything like you have never been there. It's much less expensive just to take the money and go.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 08:43 PM
  #23  
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Hang10, looking at your rules I think you could make Ford with lots of power
If I read the rules right you can use World Product heads which work very well or the same GT40-P heads I use. They arent classified as high performance heads. They are the stock heads that a 5.0L Explorer uses and those certainly arent high performance.
You're allowed the same intake as I run and I feel that it's a better piece than what the Chevy guys are allowed to run
I can dig out my cam numbers for you if you want. I got my cam from www.amotion.com which is an online parts store from not too far from where I live. Like I said I run a very mild cam compared to anyone else I race against and turn the engine way lower rpm than all the rest too.
What transmission are you going to run? I run the old Fairmont aluminum 3 speed with OD. It's quite a bit lighter than a cast rion transmission and has the internal linkage which is easier and less weight.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 08:45 PM
  #24  
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That tech rule really stinks. At our track any engine or car that is protested and teched gets the teching done that night. If it takes them 5 weeks to get around to checking it I think I'd find a different place to race.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 09:08 PM
  #25  
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Originally posted by Racerguy
That tech rule really stinks. At our track any engine or car that is protested and teched gets the teching done that night. If it takes them 5 weeks to get around to checking it I think I'd find a different place to race.
That's why I did find another place to race. They didn't tell you how long it would take. Just a vague disclaimer about how the teched motor became the property of the track, the inspection would take place in "due course"

I don't recall any of the GM guys being teched. It was a mess. I wasn't well liked. I always had some idiot trying to do something. I had people let air out of my tires. Park a truck behind my trailer and something in front of my truck so I couldn't unload my car. The first week I was there, it was a joke about the "dummy with the old coupe and a 6 cylinder, that looks like it came out of the 50's jalopy race junk pile". I had great fun showing them up.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 09:12 PM
  #26  
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Originally posted by Racerguy
Hang10, looking at your rules I think you could make Ford with lots of power
If I read the rules right you can use World Product heads which work very well or the same GT40-P heads I use. They arent classified as high performance heads. They are the stock heads that a 5.0L Explorer uses and those certainly arent high performance.
You're allowed the same intake as I run and I feel that it's a better piece than what the Chevy guys are allowed to run
I can dig out my cam numbers for you if you want. I got my cam from www.amotion.com which is an online parts store from not too far from where I live. Like I said I run a very mild cam compared to anyone else I race against and turn the engine way lower rpm than all the rest too.
What transmission are you going to run? I run the old Fairmont aluminum 3 speed with OD. It's quite a bit lighter than a cast rion transmission and has the internal linkage which is easier and less weight.
I am going to use a C4 out of a Maverick. What do you think about a 302? Much easier to find than the 351's, parts, spares etc. I took it to say no world products. Maybe I will give them a call and have them clairify.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 09:18 PM
  #27  
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I sure wouldn't give up the extra 50 cubic inches if I didnt have to. Bigger is better
A 351W is easy to find. Look in old vans, trucks, Crown Vics etc.
A lot of the parts are the same between a 302 and 351.
Yeah the head rule could be read either way. Call and ask.
If World heads are a no-go then I'd try to find some Exploder heads. They really do make a difference.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 09:27 PM
  #28  
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Maybe you could try an old LTD with a 429.... if that's legal in the class...just a thought.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 10:25 PM
  #29  
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This is a rather long post, but if your interested in racing I'm sure you'll read it.
I found a copy of the 2003 rules for my class. It will give me something to go buy until my rule book shows up in the mail. It sucks that they don't publish them on the net anymore.

2003 IMCA HOBBY STOCK RULES


This is an entry-level division. No driver holding a current I.M.C.A. license in any other division is eligible to compete in an I.M.C.A. hobby stock. Unless otherwise noted, all parts on these cars are to be approved OEM and must match the make and year of car.

1. SAFETY EQUIPMENT: Snell SA95 or SA2000 helmet required and must be worn at all times car is on the track. Roll bar padding (Fire retardant recommended) required in driver compartment. SFI approved full fire suit, fire retardant neck-brace, and gloves required (shoes recommended). Arm restraints or drivers-side ribbon or mesh window net (minimum 16"x20") required. Window net to be mounted so latch is at top front of window. Five point safety belts, sub belt, shoulder harness required. Belts and shoulder harness must be mounted securely to roll cage and are recommended to be no more than one-year-old. Kill switch required within easy reach of driver and must be clearly marked "OFF" and "ON".

2. FRAME: Any American made rear wheel drive passenger car. 1960 or newer, full frame or unibody with factory steel top. Frame must match body. 107.5-inch wheelbase minimum for full frame cars, 109-inch minimum wheelbase for unibody cars. Maximum one inch difference from side to side. Rear of frame behind rear tires, form a point no further forward than one inch behind factory seam, may be replaced in stock location with two-inch by three-inch steel tubing with .095-inch wall thickness, same length as material removed. Factory seam must remain visible. Unibodies must tie rear frame to front frame. Frames may be 'X' braced. No Camaros, Firebirds, Mustangs, etc..

3. ROLL CAGE: Main cage must consist of continuous hoops, minimum 1.75-inch O.D. tubing, with a wall thickness of at least .095-inch, low carbon or mild steel recommended. Four-post roll cage required, front down bars and rear hoop must be welded to OEM frame. With helmet on, driver's head must not protrude outside cage. Rear hoop must have 'X' brace, consisting of one full horizontal and one full diagonal bar, 1.25-inch O.D. and .083-inch wall thickness. Front down-bars must be tied together. Passenger side front down bar must be maximum 9 inches from top of door. Must be minimum 40-inches between front and rear down bars at top of door panel. Maximum 41 inches from top center of windshield to front edge of rear hoop and maximum 13 inches to front edge of top halo. Top halo must be minimum 40 inches across, outside to outside. Rear hoop may be a maximum of 10 inches in from bottom of opera window. Minimum one cross bar in top halo. May have two bars for protection in front of radiator, behind bumper, within confines of body, no wider than stock frame horns. May tie frame horns together. Required down bars (kickers) and engine hoop must be minimum 1.25-inch tubing, with .083-inch wall thickness. Fuel cell protection required, must be mounted frame rail to frame rail, no higher than fuel cell, inside trunk area with maximum 1.75-inch tubing. All bars, front and rear, must be inside body.

4. DOOR BARS: Minimum three door bars, both sides, at least 1.75-inch O.D. and .095-inch wall thickness, must be as parallel with the ground as possible, and located perpendicular to the driver. Must have four uprights tied from frame to top door bar on driver side, three on passenger side at least 1.75-inch O.D. and .095-inch wall thickness. Steel door plates, 18 gauge or .049-inch minimum thickness metal, must be securely welded to outside of door bars on driver's side. Plate must cover area from top door bar to rocker panel and from rear down post to five inches in front of seat. Must be visible for inspection.

5. BODY: All bodies must be I.M.C.A approved, match frame and completely stock OEM in stock location. Sunroofs and T-tops must be reinforced and enclosed. Aftermarket plastic nose pieces allowed, recommended to match body. No spoilers, hood scoops or ground effects. Unaltered steel hood and trunk only. Hood must be separate from fenders. No gutting of hood or trunk. Hood and trunk must be securely fastened and back of hood must be sealed off from driver compartment with metal. No overlapping or shortening of body panels. All windows in body must remain open. Maximum seven-inch metal sun visor allowed only across top of windshield opening. All glass must be removed. All doors must be welded or bolted shut. Front inner wheel wells and splash aprons may be removed. Rear wheel wells may be removed to middle seam. Fenders and quarter panels may be trimmed for tire clearance ONLY.

6. DRIVER COMPARTMENT: Minimum three windshield bars in front of driver. Aluminum high-back seats only, bolted to roll cage (not floor). Driver shoulders may be no further back than front edge of B-pillar. Driver must be completely sealed off from track, driveline, engine and fuel cell. Dash not to extend more than 24 inches back from center of lower windshield opening. Dash must be flat except for cowl in front of driver. No other interior tin or covers. Inside rear quarter panels, below window level, may be cut out. Doors may be gutted. No cutting out of firewalls, floor, roof, kick panels or trunk floor, except for roll cage clearance. All holes in front and rear firewalls and floor are to be covered with metal. Rear firewall and speaker deck must be metal and be of stock design for that make and model. No mirrors.

7. FRONT SUSPENSION: All components must be steel unaltered, approved OEM, in stock location, and match frame. OEM rubber A-frame bushings only. All A-frame mounts and bolt holes on frame must be in stock location. Bolt on spindle savers allowed. No spacers, lumber, chains or cables.

8. STEERING: All components must be steel unaltered, approved OEM, in stock location and match frame. Steel steering shafts and knuckles only. No steering quickeners, No remote reservoirs on power steering pumps. Stock steel accessory brackets only.

9. SHOCKS: Must be approved OEM steel passenger car shocks. No racing shocks. All four shocks on car may be claimed for $30, counting as one claim on card, following shock claim procedures (see rule book). Refusal to sell is same penalty as engine claim refusal.

10. SPRINGS: One steel spring per wheel only. All coil springs must be minimum 4.5-inches O.D. and non-progressive.

11. REAR SUSPENSION: All components must be steel unaltered, approved OEM, and match frame. OEM rubber control arm bushings only. No independent rear suspension. All control arm mounts and bolt holes on frame must be in stock location. No spacers, lumber, chains or cables.

12. REAR END: No floater rear ends. Steel axles only. Nine-inch Ford rear end allowed, but must be mounted like stock rear end (centered) for that make and model. Must be welded or mini spool. No torque dividing differentials.

13. BUMPERS AND RUB RAILS: Must be approved OEM in stock location, capped to fender, with no reinforcement. Maximum one inch by two inch steel rub rails bolted to body from fender well to fender well and rear quarter panel, flush with body.

14. TIRES AND WHEELS: Stock (OE) 205/75, or 205/70, 14-inch or 15-inch passenger tires only. All four tires and wheels must be same size. Tires must be inside body. No racing or snow tires. No softening, conditioning, siping or grooving. Must be maximum seven inch wide D.O.T. stamped steel wheels with standard bead bump - must weigh a minimum of 21 pounds. No racing wheels or mag wheels. Reinforcing of stock wheels recommended. One-inch steel lug nuts required. No bleeder valves.

15. BRAKES: Must be unaltered, approved OEM, operative four wheel, disc (front) and drum (back) brakes. Master cylinder must be in stock location. No antilock brake systems. No aftermarket brake pedal assemblies, brake shut-off or bias adjuster. Steel brake lines only, must be visible. Rotors may be redrilled for different bolt pattern or larger studs.

16. EXHAUST: Cast iron exhaust manifolds only. No center dump type manifolds. Exhaust must extend past firewall and turn towards ground. Must remain dual exhaust, no crossover or 'Y' pipes. No exhaust sensors. Mufflers recommended.

17. FUEL SYSTEM: Mechanical push rod fuel pumps only. Must use OEM unaltered approved two barrel carburetor and intake manifold for that engine. May remove carburetor choke, but no other alterations. $50 cash claim on carburetor, following carburetor claim procedures (see rule book). Refusal to sell is same penalty as engine claim refusal. No hi-rise or marine intake manifolds. Air cleaner top cannot direct air into carburetor. No top flow air cleaner housings, cold air boxes or air cleaner duct work. Maximum 22 gallon racing fuel cell required, must be in minimum 18-guage steel container. Must be securely fastened in trunk above level of stock trunk floor, by minimum of two .125 inch thick, solid steel straps, two inches wide around entire cell. Metal firewall must be between driver and fuel cell. All cell mounts must be steel, securely welded on frame/cage. No adjustable fuel cell mounts. Fuel cell vents, including cap vent, must have check valves. Fuel lines through driver compartment must run through metal pipe or metal conduit. No fuel filters in driver compartment. Limit of one fuel filter. No cool cans.

18. FUEL: Regular unleaded or 10% Ethanol blend gasoline only, no additives.



 
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Old Feb 6, 2004 | 10:27 PM
  #30  
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19. WEIGHT: No ballast allowed. No titanium, magnesium or carbon fiber products, parts or components. Steel fasteners only.
20. BATTERY AND STARTER: One 12-volt battery only, must be in marine-type case securely mounted in metal frame behind seat or in trunk area. OEM starter required and must bolt in stock location. Must have capability of starting without being pushed or pulled. Must leave initial staging area on demand, unaided, or go to rear of that race.

21. GAUGES AND ELECTRONICS: No transmitting or listening devices, digital gauges. No electronic monitoring computer devices capable of storing or transmitting information except tach. No ignition control boxes. OEM ignition only. All ignition rotors, caps, coils and modules must remain stock appearing. No electronic traction control devices ($10,000 fine).

22. TRANSMISSION AND DRIVESHAFT: All forward and reverse gears must be operational.
(A) Manual transmission must be approved OEM, with single-disc clutch inside explosion-proof steel bellhousing. Steel OEM flywheel only - 16 LB. Minimum.
(B) Automatic transmission must be approved OEM, with original bellhousing and torque converter containing a minimum or three quarts of fluid. Torque converter must have a minimum .125-inch plug. Must have approved scattershield (may be constructed of .25 inch by three-inch steel, 270 degrees around flexplate).
(C) Steel drive shaft (minimum 2.5-inch diameter) and slip-yokes only. Drive shaft must be painted white. 360-degree drive shaft loop required and must be constructed of at least .25-inch steel by two-inch steel, or one-inch tubing, mounted six inches back from U-joint.

23. ENGINE LOCATION: Must be in stock location, using and OEM stock mounts. Metric and Ford frames must have back of fuel pump in front of crossmember, and crossmember may no be altered or moved.

24. ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS:
(A) Steel V-8 block, heads and intake only.
(B) Maximum 361 cubic inches (GM): 363 cubic inches (Ford): 370 cubic inches (Chrysler).
(C) Maximum compression ratio is 9.0 to 1. Flat top pistons only, no gas ported pistons.
(D) Cylinder heads must be unaltered approved OEM and minimum 76 cc combustion chamber. No Vortec heads, GM approved steel head numbers are - 267, 336, 339, 388, 393, 441, 445, 454, 487, 493, 545, 598, 624, 642, 862, 881, 882, 920, 991, 993, 997; Ford - no after market or W2 heads, 360 cubic inch heads only. No porting, polishing or alterations of any kind to heads, disqualification and $250 fine if illegal.
(E) Engine must appear strictly stock. GM with GM, Ford with Ford, Chrysler with Chrysler. No 400 or larger cubic inch parts allowed. Stroke must match block. Harmonic balancer may not be altered.
(F) Must have unaltered approved OEM cast iron two barrel intake. No porting, polishing or alterations of any kind to intake, disqualification and $250 fine if illegal.
(G) No full roller or roller tip rocker arms, roller lifters, or stud girdles. Studs may be pinned or use non-shouldered ***** -in type.
(H) Minimum two-core approved steel or aluminum radiator. No aluminum water pumps on G.M. cars. Steel or aluminum V-belt pulleys only. Overflow tubes must be directed to ground, between frame rails. Accumulators and Accusumps must be mounted under hood. Stock steel accessory brackets only.

25. NINE TO ONE COMPRESSION AND CUBIC INCHES INSPECTED BY ONE OF THE TWO FOLLOWING METHODS (TRACK OPTION WHICH METHOD IS USED):
(1) Compression ratio using Whistler and cubic inches using pump.
(2) Visual inspection of part numbers, casting numbers and flat top pistons.

26. ENGINE CLAIMING RULES:
(A) $325 (U.S.) cash claim on engine, flywheel and balancing plates - $25 of this goes or wrecker pulling engine.
(B) Claim does not include - 1. Flywheel, 2. Clutch, 3. Pressure plate, 4. Bellhousing, 5. Valve cover breathers, 6. Carburetor, 7. Starter, 8. Motor mounts, 9. Sending units and switches for oil pressure and water temperature, 10. Fan and pulleys, 11. Clutch ball, 12. Clutch arm, 13. Throw-out bearing, 14. Dip stick, 15. Water pump, 16. Fuel pump, rod and plate, 17. Distributor, 18. Plug wires, 19. Water outlet and restrictor. EXHAUST MANIFOLD GOES WITH ENGINE.

NOTE: During engine claim, exhaust manifold must be pulled to inspect heads and one spark plug must be removed to check for flat top pistons prior to transfer of engine to claiming driver. If, at this time, heads or pistons are found illegal, claimed driver is disqualified and suspended from all I.M.C.A. sanctioned events until such time as a $250 fine is paid, for first offense. Claimer has option to accept or decline engine. If claimer declines, claim is not charged against him/her. Second offense penalties will be same as engine refusal, loss of all I.M.C.A. points, 30-day suspension and $1,000 fine.

 
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