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Hey, ive been trying to figure out what type of suspension i want in the front of my 76' f100. I hear you can get some mad articulation outa a link suspension but its hard to align and its all custom. Recently i came across the wristed arm concept and am somewhat intriged about it. Do you use wristed arms on both sides or jus one?...ive seen jus one side and ive seen both...
Anyways i figure the wristed arms might be the better choice since this vehicle will be a daily driver
So what can i expect from each setup...i dont plan on doing extreme rock crawling, mostly trail riding and playin in the mud but I'd like to have a reall nice articulation and flex factor
thanx for any input guys
you can run two wristed arms...unless you kept a pin in one at all times...cuz then there would be no way to keep the axle from twisting. i woould stick with the wristed arm since its much cheaper and easier.
you can run two wristed arms...unless you kept a pin in one at all times...cuz then there would be no way to keep the axle from twisting. i woould stick with the wristed arm since its much cheaper and easier.
dont take this wrong. i know a whole bunch of people who use wristed arms and yes it is impressive BUT i also know a lot of people who keep bending the solid radius arm due to too much stress on it. i chose to go with extended radius arms with heim joints rather than to use a wristed arm just for that reason
a wishbone 3link is similar to a triangulated 4link. the top two links are attached so they meet at a single point by the diff, and they are mounted together at one point on the diff. then they mount outward to the frame, on either side. The upper mount is one piece, and the bottom just has 2 links like radius arms.. The point of it is to have the axle pivet where the upper link meets...
My "wishbone" is running a tube from each side of the axle to a single center pivot- The axle and tubes are welded together so there is only one pivot point -I use a radius arm bushing for that, mounted on a crossmember around the area of transfer case. There are drawbacks to it- used on front there can be driveshaft clearance issues, and the crossmember/pivot causes some ground clearance loss under center of rig. works really well and is simple to do. Wristed arm thoughts- I know a dude that made his own wristed arms as shown but he too bent the rigid arm and then his pivot pin sheared off- he ditched the whole works and went to a wristed HOUSING. I like the extended arms myself and I also grind out the bushing clamps and pads to relieve some tension in C bushings for more flex
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