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That magazine article was very dissappointing. I read it a few weeks ago. All they did was put new ball joints, bearings, gears, and carrier in it. They just "rebuilt" it and called it an upgrade, made me mad I was hoping for good info out of that article.
Hey all
One of the main weakest links on the TTB front ends is the u-joints.And by far one of the best upgrades for these front ends is CTM U-joints. CTM makes by far the strongest U-joint on the market for the Dana 44 TTB front end. Their Web site is http://ctmracing.com/ They are a little pricey though. And there are three of them. But well worth it. CTM will also make the axles. But they apperantly do not mass produce them, so you would have to call them up and find out what you need to do, if you feel the need to upgrade the axles. I know several people who just upgrade and replace the U-joints using the stock axles. And they still haven't brocken the axles or they CTM u-joints. Before they had replace the u-joints, they were constantly breaking the u-joints.
As far as the Warn axles are concerened, you might need to call them up for your application. I am not sure what the exact measurements are for 5 axles. I have a spare unit in my back yard, and when I get the chance I'll try to measure the axles. I'm pretty sure that they are 30 spline.
Another company that is very usefull is High Impact. http://www.high-impact.net/ Click on the Transmission & Gear section. They have a wealth of info on this site. I have ordered parts from them. They have a lot of knowledge and resources regarding upgrades and beefing up your rig, and any other rig for that matter. So check them out.
Hope this helps.
P.S. If I find some more info on this subject, I'lltry to remember to post it
I can't imagine anyone putting CTM joints in a stock alxe.. thats just absurd..
I highly doubt you will break a 5-760X joint before the stock axles. Not to mention with CTM's you can't drive around with the hubs locked in like a normal truck. I can think of a million better places to invest $600 in the front end of a ttb 44 than the U-joints.
when you start breaking u-joints, and keep breaking them, then you would end up paying $600 bucks in the long run. why not spend that now and end the frustration of the contenued breaking of the u-joints, and the time of having to replace them each time.
Last edited by Toadthegreat; Feb 8, 2004 at 10:07 PM.
Originally posted by Toadthegreat when you start breaking u-joints, and keep breaking them, then you would end up paying $600 bucks.
No, I would get real axles first, to avoid the problem.. With the old 297X joints yes, I can see breaking a few. But once you put in 5-760X's, your going to be braking shafts or ears.. Hell, most of the times when I break an axle, or see them break, it either tears the ears off the yoke, or breaks elsewhere.. something a better U joint isn't going to help.
Originally posted by Toadthegreat when you start breaking u-joints, and keep breaking them, then you would end up paying $600 bucks in the long run. why not spend that now and end the frustration of the contenued breaking of the u-joints, and the time of having to replace them each time.
or you could upgrade to D60 solid axle and not have to ever worry about upgrades again and prolly not ever break anything again! TTB just sucks!!!!
Originally posted by MustangGT221 That magazine article was very dissappointing. I read it a few weeks ago. All they did was put new ball joints, bearings, gears, and carrier in it. They just "rebuilt" it and called it an upgrade, made me mad I was hoping for good info out of that article.
They put in 5-760X and a Detroit True Trac.
Besides, there is only one right way to lift a ttb and you can't do it from any kit.
Originally posted by rlh They put in 5-760X and a Detroit True Trac.
Besides, there is only one right way to lift a ttb and you can't do it from any kit.
Eh, I was hoping for more then that. Putting in stronger u-joints and a different carrier is everyday stuff...I was looking for axles or some kind of trick I havn't heard about. I have an ARB and was going to get CTMs but didn't. I broke a stub shaft u-joint which in turn bent the ears on the inner shaft and broke the stub shaft. I decided not to get CTMs because hopefully if the u-joint breaks again it won't destroy the axles. I also got some more axle shafts as backup. I can change the shaft in about 1/2 hour with common hand tools on the trail. That's easier then trying to replace the joint on the trail...and theres also the possiblity that it breaks the shaft in the process.
I know Justin, but its Four Wheeler. I was surprised by the article because my expectations from those guys are so low. Thats one of the few "old" trucks on the cover in a while too. The winching article was fair. I here you on the axles.
Originally posted by Toadthegreat when you start breaking u-joints, and keep breaking them, then you would end up paying $600 bucks in the long run. why not spend that now and end the frustration of the contenued breaking of the u-joints, and the time of having to replace them each time.
cause your throwing money at a worthless pile of junk....if oyur gonna spend that kind of money...you could easily go with a dana44 monobeam....or save up a few hundred more and slap a 60 in there and throw the ttb in a lake
the 760's are a stout u joint, and usually the shaft breaks before the joint.....ctms are a complete waste in a stock shaft....and you will probably end up ruining them after you toast the stock shafts one too many times
and what else do yall expect from the 4wheel mags...they cater to mall wheelers more than anything...and that sells
I've seen straight D44 stock stuff break before. The up side is there are several replacement axles out there, Moser, Yukon, Superior . . . mainly because of heeps, and EB.
Many people overlook the fact that the CTM joints are high maintenance. I'm not familiar with the Ox joints.
On Edit: I'm not convinced that a straight D44 is actually stronger than a ttb Dana44 assuming both are stock. In fact the carriers are essentially the same. Dana actually improved the strength of the newer carriers. the diff in the diff is the reverse cut gears to accomodate the high pinion setup. If you replace the carrier with a Detroit True Trac, Detroit Electrac, or ARB the carrier is the same. So if you go to the trouble on a F150 or Bronco, why switch to straight D44? The D44 isn't adequate for serious rock crawling with larger rigs, even 78/79 Broncos. Its a good all around axle though.
Peppy & Justin: You may consider putting a the inner slippy from a D50. It requires the elimination of the c-clip using a spring. Do that with the 5-760x and you should be good to go.
Another optioin would be to take Tite4x4's suggestion and have CTM to make a set of custom axles . . . even on a group buy if they would even do it, it would still be pricey. I'd still use the 5-760X joints though.
Then would there be a risk of doing something evil to the knucles etc.?