V-10 Trouble
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 85
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well at the point i am at with the dealership and warrentee i'll admit i used a tuner 8 months ago with no ill effect. if all the sand/rust they showed me really came from my truck ,it must be in injectors. I stared to remove the fuel rail assuming they tech checked pump wich i am will to believe since i paid him 400 dollars
i am have diffictuly removing injectors, am i being to gentle? on the back left fuel rail the is like a bicycle tire inflation stem. Is this to hook up a gauge? I "borrowed" this tuner from a speed shop and tested it out and reset it and gave it back. now that the check engine light is on the tuner would be handy for diag.
i am have diffictuly removing injectors, am i being to gentle? on the back left fuel rail the is like a bicycle tire inflation stem. Is this to hook up a gauge? I "borrowed" this tuner from a speed shop and tested it out and reset it and gave it back. now that the check engine light is on the tuner would be handy for diag.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 494
Likes: 14
From: Somewhere west of Arizona
After removing, cleaning, and blowing out my pump and screens (I think there were 2 of them), I used a bucket of water to test my pump. Made jumpers and connected it to the lawnmower battery. Yeah, real shadetree but it worked. Pumped for 15 seconds and measured the volume. Calculated to 80 gallons per hour. More than enough! Check the pressure at the fuel rail.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 494
Likes: 14
From: Somewhere west of Arizona
I was writing my last post as you were sending yours. Yeah, that bicycle valve doohicky is for checking pressure at the fuel rail. That's how the dealer was able to tell I had good pressure but low volume. What amazes me is that the dealer never checked or changed my fuel filter. After I changed my filter it ran good for a couple of minutes and then slowly the power tapered off. I cut open my orginal filter and it was blinded with Alumaseal. Have you opened your original filter to see what was in it?
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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i have now removed all injectors the problem is definatly rust. The whole fuel rail is packed. I removed lots of vacum lines so i can reach way back. i just can't seem to grasp how to remove the feul lines to the rail. it looks like you just pull. This is where i am at now i origanlly planned not to remove rail. I kinda of have to now. I can't believe this isn't a warentee issue. the pump looks so clean tank looks so clean. the factory filter ford service remove was shown to me but so what the filter was dirty. shouldn't let this much past it. i am talking heavy deposits large flaky rust chips. like i ran a fly-cutter non stop for 24 hours then packed it in there. I wonder if i should clean or replace.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 494
Likes: 14
From: Somewhere west of Arizona
If this rust is past the filter then either the filter failed and it got past the filter or the rust developed in the steel fuel lines. Ever have a water-in-fuel problem?
Running Ethanol (alcohol) in your gas? Did the truck set for a long time not running? Alcohol is hygroscopic, it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere. Seems like the rust developed in your fuel lines if the tank is clean.
Running Ethanol (alcohol) in your gas? Did the truck set for a long time not running? Alcohol is hygroscopic, it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere. Seems like the rust developed in your fuel lines if the tank is clean.
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Junior User
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I am cleaning injectors now, i notice 1 is damaged it has a crack in the plastic seet that meets the rail...... everyone here tells me to use it and if i have to buy 1 dam thing i am buying 10. Anyone ever use aftermarket injectors i found a few places online. I want to replace the filters in the pump, i doubt if they have a rebuild kit for them, its a pretty crappy pump, i guess an aluminium houseing is asking to much. I never had any water problem the methanol burning quad i got will develop rus quick if i didn't start it every day or at least run some gas.I still haven't gotten rails out of truck yet still held-up with how to remove fuel lines. i wonder if this rust is developing in the system. the return fuel line just dumps into the pump body forcing rust to collect. it should dump it back into the gastank itself. the filters really can't be cleaned, but i don't see how the rust got from tank to pump body, it was only collecting in the pump and cloged the interor filter cause what the tek told me was high pressure. I think the pump will be ok, but still may be replaced.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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I am cleaning injectors now, i notice 1 is damaged it has a crack in the plastic seet that meets the rail...... everyone here tells me to use it and if i have to buy 1 dam thing i am buying 10. Anyone ever use aftermarket injectors i found a few places online. I want to replace the filters in the pump, i doubt if they have a rebuild kit for them, its a pretty crappy pump, i guess an aluminium houseing is asking to much. I never had any water problem the methanol burning quad i got will develop rus quick if i didn't start it every day or at least run some gas.I still haven't gotten rails out of truck yet still held-up with how to remove fuel lines. i wonder if this rust is developing in the system. the return fuel line just dumps into the pump body forcing rust to collect. it should dump it back into the gastank itself. the filters really can't be cleaned, but i don't see how the rust got from tank to pump body, it was only collecting in the pump and cloged the interor filter cause what the tek told me was high pressure. I think the pump will be ok, but still may be replaced.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 494
Likes: 14
From: Somewhere west of Arizona
I disassembled the pump & screens from the housing assembly and washed the screens in soapy water and blew them off with compressed air. Same with the tank. Dealer wanted $365 for the pump, pickup and housing assembly. No parts were available separately. Aftermarket pump and assembly was about $275 I think. Again, no parts available separately, not even the screens. Thats when I decided to clean it all up and roll the dice. Since my pump tested well at 80+GPM I figured it would last a little longer. I've run almost 10,000 miles since. I think if I were you I'd clean the tank, pump, and screens; flush/blow out the lines; replace the injectors and see what happens.
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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i am ready to re assemble everything and try it, but i am trying to get a credit limit increase on a couple cards. I want to buy new fuel delivery system. I Find it hard to believe if i re assemble everything i the way it is i won't have to do it again in 500miles.
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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ya i know i just don't want to accep the reality of it all. i am going down to ford tommarrow to inform them that i am gunna stop payment to them if they don't credit me back $300. i charged it and spoke with the card company.. it is possible to still not pay. but i what to speak with ford and make things right. I looked at one spark plug and throught it at the wall they got to go 2.so i was looking a a weldon fuel system. i'd say it's gunna cost me $3000 to get 10 injectors, 10 sparkplugs, pump, regulator, stainless lines, and fuel rail. Am i missing anything?? is there anything else i should inspect that could be damaged? will coil packs need replacing? they don't appear physically damaged, can they be electically damaged from the misfireing, lean conditions, or rust. all assosiated with my fuel contamination?
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
For one thing I thought all the ford lines were stainless to start with...No Coils won't get damaged by the things you mentioned.
Why replace the injectors??? clean and have them tested...Isn't there a screen in the top of them? Don't replace what you don't have to..
Why replace the injectors??? clean and have them tested...Isn't there a screen in the top of them? Don't replace what you don't have to..
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 85
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Alright i got my act together. everything reinstalled except fuel tank skid plate. runs great except for eleveated idle. maybe that i cleared lines with desil. was smokey one start, idle for 15 min. very smokey. one smoke clear i was able to roast my 35s with ease. it wasn't able to even do this when i installed the tires. my 10 is screeming again. gunna go to dealership and speak withthem. thx for all your help. may still install new fuel system just for laughs......be a good mod to do before votech supercharger.