Hey Torque1st - Drill Bit Sharpening Question
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Hey Torque1st - Drill Bit Sharpening Question
As the resident drill sharpening expert, can you address this issue regarding drill bit sharpening?
Santa left a Drill Doctor under our tree. While it sharpens the bits well, it seems to remove the self-entering function on standard twist bits. While the bits are sharp, the smaller ones tend to want to wander around when pressure is first applied. Is this the trade off to using a Drill Doctor or is there a way to restore the self centering function?
Santa left a Drill Doctor under our tree. While it sharpens the bits well, it seems to remove the self-entering function on standard twist bits. While the bits are sharp, the smaller ones tend to want to wander around when pressure is first applied. Is this the trade off to using a Drill Doctor or is there a way to restore the self centering function?
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I am no expert on Drill Doctor operation.
If the bit is cut evenly on each side even a std point will not wander, if the drill bit is perpendicular to the surface. A split point helps the drill bit start easier with less pressure. A bit that wanders is a symptom of an uneven point or it is not perpendicular. That tiny web at the center of the point actually wipes or wears its way thru the material which increases the pressure required to drill considerably.
If the bit is cut evenly on each side even a std point will not wander, if the drill bit is perpendicular to the surface. A split point helps the drill bit start easier with less pressure. A bit that wanders is a symptom of an uneven point or it is not perpendicular. That tiny web at the center of the point actually wipes or wears its way thru the material which increases the pressure required to drill considerably.
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From: Central Kali
I just sharpened a 1" drill on my old General Tool $12 high tech device. I made a new top end for it to handle larger drills. Now I have it for 1/2" and larger and the Drill Doctor for 1/2" down to whatever I can fit in a pin vise. 
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From: Wichita KS.
I've read all the stuff lately about the drill doctor and seen all sorts of stuff about them on tv, but I never really wanted one. I guess I just feel better sharpening them by hand.
Or maybe I'm just weird.
Or maybe I'm just weird.
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Bits smaller than 1/4" seem to have the most problems. When used in a drill press to drill, say, 20g sheet metal, the smaller bits squirm away when pressure is first applied. They squirm to the point where you can see the drill shaft bowing. Once they bite, they cut as easily as a new bit would. Keeping them on the spot you want to drill is the difficult part. Sounds like these small bits are not being held in the Drill Dr correctly during the sharpening process. I'll keep on experimenting with it. Thanks for the reply.
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From: Central Kali
Use a center punch and they won't do that. I do a lot of drilling in round parts which is probably the hardest to start straight.
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Mike- You are right about that!!! 
My biggest problem with hand sharpening is my eyes, I just can't see well enuf anymore. My hands shake also. A momentary tremor can wipe out a drill bit. I am still looking at getting a Drill Doctor.
My biggest problem with hand sharpening is my eyes, I just can't see well enuf anymore. My hands shake also. A momentary tremor can wipe out a drill bit. I am still looking at getting a Drill Doctor.
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From: USA
I've seen a lot of info about the Drill Doctor but couldn't justify the 80+ bucks to buy one for no more bits than I wear out.
My father-in-law just bought a cheapo drill bit sharpener from Cummins Tools (the tool sale trucks that come to town every once in a while) for $19. I haven't heard how it works yet, but for that price it might be worth trying. I think they also have a web site where you can order online.
My father-in-law just bought a cheapo drill bit sharpener from Cummins Tools (the tool sale trucks that come to town every once in a while) for $19. I haven't heard how it works yet, but for that price it might be worth trying. I think they also have a web site where you can order online.
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From: Northeast Wisconsin
I have a Model 750SP Drill Doctor. Although I can sharpen a drill so it's "OK" by following the instructions in the manual, I've found that there appears to be insufficient relief angle on the cutting edge of drills if I use "by the book" settings for "standard" point drills. However, by rotating the "alignment tube handle" about 1/4" counterclockwise from the detent position for a "standard" point, it significantly increases the rake angle on the cutting edge. This REALLY improves how the sharpened drill cuts (as well as its sharpness), including a reduction in "wandering" when first starting to drill.
I ALWAYS do a heavy centerpunch before I start to drill, regardless of the drill size. If the finished hole diameter is to be greater that about 1/4", then I'll drill a pilot hole after centerpunching. The bit never "wanders".
Just my method, for what it's worth.
I ALWAYS do a heavy centerpunch before I start to drill, regardless of the drill size. If the finished hole diameter is to be greater that about 1/4", then I'll drill a pilot hole after centerpunching. The bit never "wanders".
Just my method, for what it's worth.
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From: in a house
Traderjoe, I have a cure for that relief angle problem. when you put the bit in the alignment hole and tighten the chuck only do it slightly then remove the chuck and tighen it in you hand. I found that the plastic gives way when you tighten it in the machine and the alignment tabs turn the bit further than needed in the chuck.
areocolorado, you will have more walking with smaller bits if you use jobber length. I like using short bits when there under 1/4".
areocolorado, you will have more walking with smaller bits if you use jobber length. I like using short bits when there under 1/4".
Post Fiend
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From: Central Kali
Here is a link to my modified General Tool with a 1" drill I just sharpened. http://www.weldingweb.com/showthread...5&pagenumber=2
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