Need help Building the ultimate shop.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
From: Brighton, Colorado
Need help Building the ultimate shop.
Figured out the house and the land. Now looking for what to do about the shop.
Here is my idea;
2500 sq feet concrete floor. 14ft ceiling. One 12 ft overhead door with an 8ft next to it.
1 side entrance door. No windows.
I know there are many things to add like lifts, heaters compressors and such but I am close to the building phase and would like input on the construction or things to add during the construction. ie I-Beam rail for a hoist. Floor drains etc.
Thanks
Here is my idea;
2500 sq feet concrete floor. 14ft ceiling. One 12 ft overhead door with an 8ft next to it.
1 side entrance door. No windows.
I know there are many things to add like lifts, heaters compressors and such but I am close to the building phase and would like input on the construction or things to add during the construction. ie I-Beam rail for a hoist. Floor drains etc.
Thanks
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 0
From: West Chester PA
Things that I would plan for are some of what you have already mentioned. Floor drain, heater, etc...Some of the things that you haven't mentioned is plenty of outlets throughout the shop. I'm in the process of adding outlets in my garage. Another thing is windows. Go to the site of your new shop several times at different times during the day to see where the sun is compared to your doors. I get almost no sunlight in through my doors. Makes me wish that I had some windows on the side...
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,258
Likes: 0
From: clementsport canada
like said above, windows, and put in a second man door on the opposite side of the shop. when it's that big, you won't want to walk all the way around for "something out back"
depending on what your planning to do in it, trench drains might be a good thing, but what ever you use, put in sumps that you can clean out, saves digging pipes up later on.
lots of outlets, and an extra big pannel for those add-on's you'll want later
if your going to put in a hoist, make sure your concreat pad is think enough. ours is just thick enough to put a hoist on, and it would be nice to know it was thicker lol
depending on what your planning to do in it, trench drains might be a good thing, but what ever you use, put in sumps that you can clean out, saves digging pipes up later on.
lots of outlets, and an extra big pannel for those add-on's you'll want later
if your going to put in a hoist, make sure your concreat pad is think enough. ours is just thick enough to put a hoist on, and it would be nice to know it was thicker lol
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,263
Likes: 0
From: N. Florida - The "No 4x4
Holy cow - don't forget the pit rack.
you remember, it is an area where you drive the vehicle at floor level over a pit (usually on heavy steel "ramps") that is deep enough to stand in and has plenty of room to work.
. . poor man's lift?
you remember, it is an area where you drive the vehicle at floor level over a pit (usually on heavy steel "ramps") that is deep enough to stand in and has plenty of room to work.
. . poor man's lift?
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Don't forget to plumb for water.
Put one of those big fibreglass laundry sinks in one corner, and a hose bibb on each wall, with another outside near the main door.
Just like electrical outlets you can never have to many water faucets.
And a phone line so you don't have to run inside the house to answer a call or call the parts house.
Also in one corner...
'an old 'fridge for beer and sodas, a couple of old eazy chairs and a stereo for tunes and weather reports.
Put one of those big fibreglass laundry sinks in one corner, and a hose bibb on each wall, with another outside near the main door.
Just like electrical outlets you can never have to many water faucets.
And a phone line so you don't have to run inside the house to answer a call or call the parts house.
Also in one corner...
'an old 'fridge for beer and sodas, a couple of old eazy chairs and a stereo for tunes and weather reports.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,493
Likes: 346
From: SE Iowa
Use 2x6 or 2x8 studs for the walls for better insulating power! I used 2x6s instead of 2x4s on my 30x30 and the difference was minimal.
Stryder
Stryder
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
From: Penn Valley
I am partial to steel frame buildings myself, not sure how to insulate them well enough for your situation though. But I am sure it can be done and they are cheap. I never worry too much about insulation anyway because I am always opening the doors to let out noxious fumes, equipment to big to close the door, or other reasons...
I am going to say that I don't think too much of floor drains. Rather, I prefer the floor to slope out the front door. That way you can just hose it out the door with a squeegee and there is nothing to plug up. I use a hot water hose on the floor.
Never had a heated floor, instead I have an overhead Reznor that keeps it tolerable and when I am working in there I fire up a "salamander" one of those Reddy Heater kerosene burning jobs to help the Reznor (but I burn old diesel in it instead, to get rid of it).
Birken
I am going to say that I don't think too much of floor drains. Rather, I prefer the floor to slope out the front door. That way you can just hose it out the door with a squeegee and there is nothing to plug up. I use a hot water hose on the floor.
Never had a heated floor, instead I have an overhead Reznor that keeps it tolerable and when I am working in there I fire up a "salamander" one of those Reddy Heater kerosene burning jobs to help the Reznor (but I burn old diesel in it instead, to get rid of it).
Birken
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 673
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From: Virginia
exhaust hood for welding. Some sort of exhaust fan at the very least. Plenty of celing lights.
Phone, CAT-5 and cable tv. Dont have to use them, but may as well wire them up while building, its much easier.
Phone, CAT-5 and cable tv. Dont have to use them, but may as well wire them up while building, its much easier.
New User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
I just built a garage last year, one of the best things I did was to include a bathroom. If you are running water to the garage anyway, it is pretty cheap to do. I can stay in the garage all day and night and never make a trip into the house. Keeps the wife happier.
New User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 15
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From: Canada
I just built my new shop. Nothing in it yet. Used a steel building by future steel. WWW.futuresteel .com
I found it to be the cheepest way to go and also there is lots of head room because you have no rafters. My building is 30'x40' with 17'9" peek. I will see if I can post a picture.
I found it to be the cheepest way to go and also there is lots of head room because you have no rafters. My building is 30'x40' with 17'9" peek. I will see if I can post a picture.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 151
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From: rural SE Michigan
40' x 60' or 32' x 80' pole barn. Clear span trusses. Fabral steel roof and sides. R-36 insulation. 5" insulated slab. 3-phase electric. Goes up quick. Finishing always takes forever. Consider another rollup door at opposite gable. Bring lotta cash.
Oldbones
Oldbones