So after going through several ideas on my buildup maintaining the stock bottom end I have come back to the drawing board. I had the parts all picked out on how to crank out over 400 ponies from this 88 351w block stock bottom end. The only thing that didnt add up was the cost. It was way too much for me. I want you guys to tell me what the cheapest way to get 400 horses or more from my block. I was told it was doable, but I know there has to be a way to do it cheap. My main problem was the fascination with the roller everything. The roller cam, lifters, and roller rockers were over a grand all together with the rods. So I think I will go with a reg hyd cam. What about heads? I could get some used gt-40s off a stang or something couldnt I? For the intake and carb I was thinking a 650 and a edelbrock performer rpm. Shortcuts like this would help and used parts help too. I also still have the speed density system, but what Ive seen from that its going to be even more expensive to go that route. Im 99 percent sure Im going carb. So show me the way guys, I know you can. Youve all been doing this longer than I have most likely. Thanks.

Ryan

 

What are you wanting to spend? f-150 or 250? 4X4 or 4X2? later

 

This is an f150 4x4. 4.10 gear ratio. I guess 2000 would be nice for a limit. I was talking to you in some other threads about my upgrade but those routes quickly became to costly and produced the power I wanted to high in the rpm range for the stock bottom end. I think I want a mild cam - reg hydraulic. Unless there is a cheap way to go roller. Maybe I can get a roller setup from a different roller block and drill and tap to put it in. Are there any cheap stroker options like a 400 crank in this or from some other engine? Thanks.

Ryan

 

Actually getting a scat crank ( http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/ ) reusing the 351 stock rods, and getting your hands on some 302 stocktype pistons (for your overbore), with arp rod bolts would be a cheap stroker setup. Don't forget you would have to have the entire rotating assembly balanced, price depends on individual crank and machinist, lot of people have had good results with the scat crank.

YOu have two options on a roller, short of buying a roller block. Using a non roller block requires two things.

(1) reduced base circle cam, change distributor gear to be compatible (sometimes the cam company will make the cam gear compatible with your non roller gear (steel) so you need to be sure of which is which), stock 5.0 roller setup, and drill/tap two holes.

(2) use a standard off the shelf or custom roller cam, retrofit roller lifters for non roller blocks (crower has a cheap set $300 or so, can't remember the price but expect $300-400 depending on brand), and change the distributor gear if needed, some of comps roller cams come with the correct cam gear so changing your steel gear on your distributor isn't required. This method cost more, but is easier, and the retrofit roller lifters have a bar connecting them instead of a spider retainer, which makes it very strong.

If you built up a stroker 351, with the best aftermarket head you could afford, or port or have your stock heads ported correctly, with a recommended cam, you should make 400 hp if not get real close, and the torque would be right were you want it, to motivate that truck. Good luck

 

ok so if im going to go roller i will have to pay 300 bucks or more over a regular setup. This will only gain me and extra 10-15 horses over non roller so i dont think its worth it now. Cant I go with a hydraulic cam non roller that has more lift and still get decent numbers. Do I have to go roller to get good power? I saw that you can get gt-40p heads but you have to change the headers because the spark plugs will be in the way. Just looking for ideas. I dont think I want to change the bottom end right now. Thanks for the help.

 

Yes you can make decent hp and tq with a flat tappet, I wouldn't even worry about a roller, unless you have the extra money to blow, IMO.

YOur right on the gt-40p heads. central coast mustang has the headers for an 86-96 ford truck should you find a set you can't live without. 661-823-2407

Get yourself a 600-650 carb, dual plane intake, and the best stock or aftermarket head you can afford new or used, and a comp cam XE (recommended for you setup), and you should have plenty of motivation for your truck. Go to google or some other search engine and punch in "How to build a 400hp 351w" or similar key words and someone will have listed a motor like you want, and the parts that got them there, or at least should, good luck


Here are two example listed in the book "how to build max performance ford v-8's on a budget"

351 with a .030 overbore------> 4.030 bore
compression ratio----------------> 10.5:1
arp rod bolts
stock crank
comp cams------------------------->didn't list specs, was flat tappet
roller rockers stock ratio
power heads (351w)-------------> www.powerheads.com cnc machine ported stock heads
intake-------------------------------->edelbrock performer rpm
carb---------------------------------->750 holley
1 5/8" long tube headers
they claim it cost $3000 for parts and $400 for labor, which if you do some searching you can beat that by far.

This is what the dyno sheet looked like

rpm....................horsepower............torqu e
3000..................173........................3 04
4000..................285........................3 74
5000..................365........................383 peak
6000..................395 peak...........345




Another one

351 bored .030-------------------------->4.030 bore
compression ratio----------------------->10.5:1
stock crank
stock rods
arp bolts
comp cam XE262H flat tappet
gt-40p cylinder heads with 1.94/1.62 valves otherwise stock
performer rpm intake
750 holley carb
1 5/8" long tubes
claimed $3000 for parts and $400 for labor, again you should be able to look around and get this a lot cheaper.

dyno

rpm......................hp....................... ...torque
3000....................206....................... .352
4000....................295....................... .387
5000....................373....................... .393 peaked at 4500
6000....................398 peak..........349


You would need a high stall converter for either of these setups. YOu could always use a smaller cam, gain some additional torque on the bottom and give up some high rpm hp, wouldn't matter becasue you may never see 6000 muck less 5500 rpm in your truck. They could be done realitively cheaply, none of the parts are expensive or hard to find. Something to think about. later