spark plugs
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,532
Likes: 5
From: Trussville, Alabama
Hello Ed,
I'd say stick with the OEM Motorcraft plugs and wires. I am sure there are others that might work, but it seems that some folks experience problems with various other mfgrs. Kind of a hit-or-miss thing.
I replaced my plugs and wires at about 90,000 with Motorcraft parts and it really smoothed things out, just like new!
I bought at a local commercial parts supply house (not the chain store type), not the dealer. Price was about $80 for plugs and wires.
I'd say stick with the OEM Motorcraft plugs and wires. I am sure there are others that might work, but it seems that some folks experience problems with various other mfgrs. Kind of a hit-or-miss thing.
I replaced my plugs and wires at about 90,000 with Motorcraft parts and it really smoothed things out, just like new!
I bought at a local commercial parts supply house (not the chain store type), not the dealer. Price was about $80 for plugs and wires.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,013
Likes: 6
From: Cajun Country
Bunavage,go back with part # AGSF-42FM Motorcraft plugs gapped @ .054". Also,never change the plugs on a hot motor! 
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,013
Likes: 6
From: Cajun Country
I tried Autolites in my 4.2 once and thought I was riding on a mechanical bull..
It was bucking,jumping,missing and backfired once or twice....I learned the hard way! Been using Motorcraft since then! 
It was bucking,jumping,missing and backfired once or twice....I learned the hard way! Been using Motorcraft since then!
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
From: San Rafael, NM
BlueOvalFitter-
Not changing the plugs while the engine is hot. Something new for me. Besides not liking to be hot, splain it to me why I should not do this, please.
BTW-I like to apply soapy water to the the recessed area around each plug, then spray the area out with the garden hose on full jet before I remove plugs. I started doing this because it is very sandy where we live and I noticed dirt falling into the plug hole on the wifes Grand Am once. Don't tell her please.
Not changing the plugs while the engine is hot. Something new for me. Besides not liking to be hot, splain it to me why I should not do this, please.
BTW-I like to apply soapy water to the the recessed area around each plug, then spray the area out with the garden hose on full jet before I remove plugs. I started doing this because it is very sandy where we live and I noticed dirt falling into the plug hole on the wifes Grand Am once. Don't tell her please.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,013
Likes: 6
From: Cajun Country
Damon,the heads on the 4.2 are aluminum.The plugs are steel. Add heat to the picture and you are taking a chance of stripping the plug hole or the plug stopping halfway while trying to remove it. Its good practice to do this job while the engine is cold. And,I use a compressor to blow out each plug cavity prior to removal. If you dont have a compressor use air in a can. You can by it at any department store in the electronics sesction.
About the wifes car, i'm sure shes gotten you back while you were asleep!
About the wifes car, i'm sure shes gotten you back while you were asleep!
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,532
Likes: 5
From: Trussville, Alabama
Originally posted by bunavage
Thanks to everbody... It is so nice to have a place to go to get the information before you do the job......Thanks again.....Ed
Thanks to everbody... It is so nice to have a place to go to get the information before you do the job......Thanks again.....Ed
I used NoAlox (No Aluminum Oxidation.)on my plug threads. It only takes a small amount to ease install and removal. It prevents oxidation and thread galling - good stuff. Also, I used the dielectric grease in the plug caps.
Nary a problem!
