spark plugs

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Old 01-31-2004, 08:48 AM
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spark plugs

Looking at putting new plugs in my truck, 86000 on the clock. What plugs are the best stick with motorcraft or what ???? THANKS ED
 
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Old 01-31-2004, 09:45 AM
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Hello Ed,
I'd say stick with the OEM Motorcraft plugs and wires. I am sure there are others that might work, but it seems that some folks experience problems with various other mfgrs. Kind of a hit-or-miss thing.
I replaced my plugs and wires at about 90,000 with Motorcraft parts and it really smoothed things out, just like new!
I bought at a local commercial parts supply house (not the chain store type), not the dealer. Price was about $80 for plugs and wires.
 
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Old 01-31-2004, 10:48 AM
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I personally was dissapointed with Bosch Platinum 2...I lost gas mileage...and will be going back to motorcraft plugs and wires. good luck
 
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Old 01-31-2004, 10:53 AM
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Stick with the motorcraft.
 
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Old 01-31-2004, 11:14 AM
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Thanks for the info I will be changing them soon.... What about putting a lube on the threads......
 
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Old 01-31-2004, 11:24 AM
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definantly put anti-sieze lube on them...and dialectric grease on the wires...
 
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Old 01-31-2004, 04:45 PM
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Bunavage,go back with part # AGSF-42FM Motorcraft plugs gapped @ .054". Also,never change the plugs on a hot motor!
 
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Old 01-31-2004, 06:29 PM
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what was wrong with autolite plugs again??
 
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Old 01-31-2004, 07:39 PM
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I tried Autolites in my 4.2 once and thought I was riding on a mechanical bull.. It was bucking,jumping,missing and backfired once or twice....I learned the hard way! Been using Motorcraft since then!
 
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Old 02-01-2004, 04:42 AM
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BlueOvalFitter-
Not changing the plugs while the engine is hot. Something new for me. Besides not liking to be hot, splain it to me why I should not do this, please.
BTW-I like to apply soapy water to the the recessed area around each plug, then spray the area out with the garden hose on full jet before I remove plugs. I started doing this because it is very sandy where we live and I noticed dirt falling into the plug hole on the wifes Grand Am once. Don't tell her please.
 
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Old 02-01-2004, 05:17 AM
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Damon,the heads on the 4.2 are aluminum.The plugs are steel. Add heat to the picture and you are taking a chance of stripping the plug hole or the plug stopping halfway while trying to remove it. Its good practice to do this job while the engine is cold. And,I use a compressor to blow out each plug cavity prior to removal. If you dont have a compressor use air in a can. You can by it at any department store in the electronics sesction.

About the wifes car, i'm sure shes gotten you back while you were asleep!
 
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Old 02-01-2004, 02:21 PM
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Thanks to everbody... It is so nice to have a place to go to get the information before you do the job......Thanks again.....Ed
 
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Old 02-01-2004, 02:44 PM
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Originally posted by bunavage
Thanks to everbody... It is so nice to have a place to go to get the information before you do the job......Thanks again.....Ed
Glad we can all help each other. It is nice.
I used NoAlox (No Aluminum Oxidation.)on my plug threads. It only takes a small amount to ease install and removal. It prevents oxidation and thread galling - good stuff. Also, I used the dielectric grease in the plug caps.
Nary a problem!
 
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Old 02-01-2004, 03:56 PM
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I learned my lesson from straying from motorcaraft plugs....does the same advice apply on wires...or is there a cheaper aftermarket product that will get the job done or do better.?
 
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Old 02-01-2004, 04:04 PM
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I have had good luck with wires from NAPA. They are made by Beldon, a very good wire manufacturer....and they have a lifetime warranty also....
 


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