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i have a problem of losing power i got a 1987 bronco i have a pair of 12" subs in it my problem is that everytime i have my subs on my power voltage meter for my battery go's down but i unplug them and it go's right back up i had my alternator checked and it was perfect i replaced my battery with a brand new one and it still does it i am thinking i need a new alternator that puts out more watts to recharge my battery am i right please i need this problem solved quick i'm open to all idea's
I know your not going to want to here this, but it is a quick fix. Chances are the amp has a direct wire to the battery? If it does find a hot wire that is still hot with the key off and splice in to it. Recommend the Hot wire under the dash for the stereo. You probably wont even notice a difference in performance but it will take some of the draw off the alternator. Or Buy a higher output alt.
yea there is a direct wire straight to the battery i was thinking of buying a higher output alt im just asking first incase it would be something else is anyone positive that getting a higher alt will fix the problem i am thinking that is the problem but i don't want to spend money if its a quick fix
How many total amps does your amplifier and truck pull on the charging system? If you don’t know, just divide the amplifiers maximum wattage by 12. Have your truck’s amperage draw checked, just about anyplace that tests batteries can check amperage or current draw. Add your amplifiers amperage to the vehicles amperage draw and if the total is more than 80% of the alternators rated amperage then you need a higher rated alternator. An alternators rating is stamped on the casing around its outside edge. To find 80%, multiply its rating by .8, it works like this, if your amp is 500w divided by 12 would be a 41.66 amps and if your truck is drawing 5 amps then that’s a total 46.66 being drawn off the battery. Most standard ford alternators are rated at 60 amps, 80% of 60 is 48, so 46.66 amps would be ok. The reason you use 80% as a bench mark is to allow for your A/C, headlights , rear window defroster and other components that will draw additional amperage. If you do the math and find that your current draw is within specs, then you might try replacing the voltage regulator. Hope this helps, good luck.
that is alittle bit to confusing for me i think i need a bigger alt because when i have the car running and my subs on the power go's down then if i turn on my heater it basically go's down the whole way in the red
you must remember that if you amp is 500 watts this would be a peak reading. the strongest bass tones will draw more power from your amp. what size wire do you have feeding your amp?
i dont know what bronco up is talking about but the hot wire for the radio under the dash willNOT handle the draw for the kind of amplifier power you have. the battery is the best place to take power from.all amplifier install kits take power directly from the battery.
if you have a battery capable of putting out 500 amps ther should be no problem powering the amp and the vehicle.
let me explain how your charging system works. all vehicle power is taken from the battery because the battery filters the voltage. your alternator recharges the battery through a voltage regulator, which doers exactly that it senses how much current draw is on the battery and lets only that much current back or you would over charge the battery and this would destroy it.
say you were drawing 65 amps the regulator would recharge aty 65 amps if your alternater was capable of 65 amps. if not it would charge at its max output and all other power would be removed from the battery thus slowly dischargeing your battery.
Definitely, run the power wire for the amp right off of the battery, hooking it up to a smaller wire would fry that wire instantly! Have you had the alternator checked more than once? Where did you have it checked? Try some other places to see if their machine was just wrong. I have subs in mine and with the heater, subs, and headlights on it still has plenty of power!
i took it to auto zone (bad choice) i only had it checked once they said it was good i cant even have my heater on with my subs it will completely drain it just my subs will drain it almost to the red line in my voltage gauge
Make sure you run a high quality, large power wire from the amp. A farad capacitor could help keep the bass notes from dimming everything as much. The 3g 130A Alternator swap would be a good thing.