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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 06:59 AM
  #31  
HDMustF250's Avatar
HDMustF250
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From: Middle Geogia
To each their own...

One parting note: I used Harley oil in my Bike. Rode hard for the morning during a Georgia Summer, I took a heat gun and measured the temp of the engine, the hotest it got was 225 degrees. At 11:30 AM I changed the oil to Amsoil synthetic same weight as Harley. Rode for a couple of more hours, checking temps with the heat gun (Obviously it was afternoon by now and the ambient temperature was hotter), the bike never got hotter that 195 degrees. So if a synthetic is not any better why does my bike run 30 degrees cooler with it in when the ambient temperature was 20 degrees hotter?

I also work in aerospace and use synthetics exclusively.

http://www.amsoil.com/warranty.htm

Bottom line it is your vehicle and your money, I hate to see folks so against synthetics when they may not have the whole story, and again mislead people away from something that could benefit them.

JR
 
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 07:31 AM
  #32  
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jschira
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Bottom line it is your vehicle and your money, I hate to see folks so against synthetics when they may not have the whole story, and again mislead people away from something that could benefit them.
There. That's exactly what I'm talking about. You're so much smarter than me because you use syn.

As far as "misleading" people away and being "against" syn., did you actually read my post?

Apparently not. So let me repeat part of it for you.

Now, I've looked at all the evidence that I can find on dino versus syn. In my mind, the evidence that syn. will provide me with sufficient real world, practical advantages over dino is just not compelling enough to me to justify the extra cost. If syn. where the same price as dino, of course I would use it. But it's not and I do not see that I am gaining anything by spending the extra money.

* * * *

So, if you want to use syn., that's up to you. You need to look at the evidence and decide for yourself. There is no "wrong" decision. There is only the decision that's "right" for you.

I have decided on dino, the cheapest API CH-4 that I can find. That's what the evidence tells me to do. That's the right decision for me.
 

Last edited by jschira; Jan 30, 2004 at 07:37 AM.
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 07:51 AM
  #33  
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HeatStroked
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F.Y.I.:
Good oil filter information here;
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
 
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 08:06 AM
  #34  
jschira's Avatar
jschira
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From: Mansfield, TX USA
Originally posted by HeatStroked
F.Y.I.:
Good oil filter information here
This study has been passed around a lot. How old is this study? Does anyone know?

Still good info.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 03:10 PM
  #35  
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clux
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From: Carhenge
I also work in aerospace and use synthetics exclusively.

http://www.amsoil.com/warranty.html

Bottom line it is your vehicle and your money, I hate to see folks so against synthetics when they may not have the whole story, and again mislead people away from something that could benefit them.
From the Amsoil warranty:

3. The liability of AMSOIL INC. shall be limited to:
a. Replacement of the defective lubricant.
b. The cost, including labor and materials, to repair damaged equipment, or at the option of AMSOIL INC., the cost to replace damaged equipment, resulting directly from the use of AMSOIL INC. lubricants when used in the proper applications.

So they don't warranty wear at all, only damage caused directly by their products. Sounds a lot like the implied warranty of merchantability that any oil you put in your engine would be bound to.
On another Amsoil page I read a claim that they have never replaced an engine under this warranty. Sounds like a whopper of a deal to me.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 03:59 PM
  #36  
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HDMustF250
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From: Middle Geogia
I know of one that they replaced. They didn't have to since the guy mixed Amsoil and dyno and tried to run it for an extended drain interval. They replaced his engine to keep good customer service.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 05:48 PM
  #37  
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afinepoint
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From: Richmond, VA
FYI,

I have used Penzoil 10W-30 in the Explorer below. With the heads off for a recent replacement I had the opportunity to inspect rocker arms, pushrods, lifters, cylinders, valves and guides.

After 210,000 miles the parts all looked good. Nothing required replacing due to wear. I did change out a lifter but that was because a part of it was missing. Clearances were all within tolerances. The cylinders did show wear but compression was satisfactory.

My oil changes are every 2500 to 3000 miles however I have gone over from time to time by as much as 1000 miles. - Life's not perfect.

I have replaced everything on this engine except what has been lubricated by its oil.

I do use synthetic in a car but that is only because I put it on the track.

If you drive in extreme conditions synthetic is fine otherwise regular oil will do. We tend to be too easily swayed by advertising, doubt, and fear. Salesmen, manufacturers and marketers count on this and prey on individual ignorance. Just look at the size and number of 4X4 vehicles on the road. How many housewives really need 4WD to get to the grocery store one mile away and the soccer game? They think they need to and want to belong. And there is someone they to hold their hand and tell them they are right. Sad.

Thank goodness for this site and other medium to spread the light of knowledge.

If you live in Minnesota and don't or can't plug in the heater and/or don't want to change out the oil to something thinner then synthetic may be the way to go. Likewise if you do high hauling, towing in demanding conditions perhaps synthetic may be right as well.

In otherwords the less maintenance you can or are willing to do the more synthetic may be for you.

Very, (very) few of us drive under the conditions that put such extreme wear and tear on an engine. Stop and go? Sure it is harsh but oil will handle it if you perform the necessary maintenance and choose the correct vehicle and options.

In the end our ego, if unchecked by common sense and logic, will win out. We will see and hear what we want to ignoring the truth. Pleasure before responsibility. Want before need.

Before running out and pouring $5/quart oil into a normal engine for normal driving why not get up early and tune in the infommercials. I sure there's something even more expensive and unnecessary they can sell you.

Reg
 

Last edited by afinepoint; Jan 30, 2004 at 06:02 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 06:55 PM
  #38  
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Mountain
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From: North Georgia
I run both synthetic and diesel oils. I just sold a Isuzu Diesel that had 267,xxx miles on it and was driven hard. The first mile of very day was a steep climb to the top of Conner Mountain, the next 3.0 where first gear engine braked miles, the next 15 where normal driving on winding roads, the last 20 were 70-85 mph on expressways. The return trip was a reversal of the morning commute. I often hauled loads grossly over the rated limits of this truck, excluding 6.9 and 7.3 Navistor IDI engines (just not at the 70-85 mph speeds). I changed the oil every 3000 more or less until the last 10,000 miles using Castro oil (non synthetic). I never touched the engine other than a dealership tuneup at 75,000. Castro is Great oil. However, I use Shell Rotello in both my 6.9 and 7.3 IDI diesels. I change those every 3000, and by then the oil is BLACK. I have a good friend who is a semi-retired Ford mechanic and has rebuilt many 6.9 and 7.3 as well as many Mercedes diesels and he swears by 3000 mile oil changes on diesels. In fairness to synthetics, I run them in my T-88 Harley Ultra, but still change it every 3000-4000 miles. It's still your choice, but I prefer to know that my oil is clean and broken down little.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 07:03 PM
  #39  
Mykro's Avatar
Mykro
Mountain Pass
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Re: oil

Originally posted by CLK
I hate to bring up an old subject, and I have gone through all of the old posts, but I am very stubborn. I have been considering going to a synthetic oil in my truck and do an extended drain. I had a conversation with an International tech the other day and he said that they did not recomend going to synthetic. He said to stick with regular oil and change it every 3k miles. I asked him about a bypass filter and he told me that he wouldn't recomend it and restated that international designs them a certain way and went back to his previous statement about changing oil at 3k (don't agree with that one). Now I have read all of the posts that everyone has contributed and some say do and some say don't, I guess it is personal preference. I have purchaced a bypass filter from oilguard, in my opinion you can never have too much filtration, I guess thats the engineer side talking, the oil is as clear as it goes in at 5k. But now i am in a dilema I want to go to a synthetic to extend my change intervals to 10k and preserve the engine from wear as much as possible. I live in arizona and with the summer heat I am worried about the viscosity of the synthetics 5w40 compared to the conventional 15w40 being to low for heavy towing applications. I guess what I am looking for is what everyone else is doing so I can make a some what educated decision based on what works and not on one tech opinion. I know this is an old topic and I got prety lengthly but I would appreciate any and all of your inputs.

THANK YOU
It will not matter if you use synthetic oil, if you let it get dirty it's worthless anyway.. I have 3 Frantz bypass filters on my PSD... Engine, Fuel, Transmission.. My engine oil and transmission fluid stay polished clean 100% of the time.. I don't need to change my oil! The diesel fuel is also free of any contaminates and moisture.. I run pure diesel fuel 100% of the time and the engine runs much better too.

Check out these sites for more information on Toilet Paper bypass filtration:

http://www.garynorth.com/y2k/detail_.cfm/5359 good article to read

http://www.lubetrak.com/newsletter/July09HTML.html Good info here..

http://www.gulfcoastfilter.com/why.htm More great info here

http://www.bypassfilter.com/ Read the FAQ's here.. Raplh Wood is a Bypass filtration Guru

http://www.wefilterit.com/ Frantz website

Check out my Webshots page of my Frantz setup:

http://community.webshots.com/album/114815318vlzHVh
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 10:55 AM
  #40  
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Bullseye1
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By -Pass filter set up...

Where can I get a by pass filter and how do you install it, been wanting one for a long time!!!
Jerry
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 01:52 PM
  #41  
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HeatStroked
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From: Phoenix, AZ
I just finished installing my Oil Guard oil bypass system a few hours ago.
High quality product, great service and true one micron filtration.
I don't plan on extending my oil changes by much, just wanted the best filtration.
http://www.oilguard.com/
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 03:30 PM
  #42  
Mykro's Avatar
Mykro
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2003
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Re: By -Pass filter set up...

Originally posted by Bullseye1
Where can I get a by pass filter and how do you install it, been wanting one for a long time!!!
Jerry
go here...

www.bypassfilter.com

www.wefilterit.com
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 06:02 PM
  #43  
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grizz_chaser
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From: Colorado


I always enjoy these dino - synthetic comparison threads, they are almost as good as oil filter discussions. To answer your question of what everyone is using, I am using a FleetGaurd Stratapore oil filter and Rottela 5w-40 syn. for the winter. The 5w-40 lets me start easier when cold. I normally run Rottela 15w-40 in the summer. Will I change back next summer? I haven't decided yet. Good luck with what ever you decide is best for you.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 06:13 PM
  #44  
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flynavydiesel
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From: Best Nation in the World
You know these are very interesting threads. I am running extended intervals on synthetic but man I am not getting a lot of use out of my fumoto valve. Maybe I should switch back just to play under the truck again.

After, I install my new rancho shocks!!!
 
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Old Jan 31, 2004 | 06:14 PM
  #45  
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HeatStroked
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From: Phoenix, AZ
I went to the Frantz filter site and I couldn't find to what micron level they filter the oil, no claims.? ????

From the Frantz Site:

"Just how efficient is the Frantz Oil Cleaner/Filter?"

"On the basis of laboratory reports which have been received from independent oil testing facilities, the Frantz Oil Cleaner/Filter is the most efficient oil filter that is commercially available for automotive engines today. Even after many thousands of miles of use, oil filtered through a Frantz Oil Cleaner/Filter will be free of contamination to such a degree that it is considered analytically clean and suitable for further use."

C'mon Frantz, give me micron filtration, not jibberish.
 
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