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I am now running RotellaT 10w-30 with a 1/5 marvel mystery oil in my 95 f-150 and I notice a ticking when I first start it when it's cold out side. What is causing this and is this a potential problem. Is this easily fixable?
what do you mean by 1/5 marvels mystery oil? 1/5 of a quart? one quart of marvels was added to 4 quarts of oil? I think 10W-30 is a little thick, especially in the cold weather. What do you use for an oil filter? If you use fram, pennzoil, or quakerstate, find something else. My chebbie used to knock on startup, because i used a fram filter. The anti-drainback valves do not work in frams, and fram makes pennzoil and quakerstate oil filters, same thing different paint. I switch to wix filters, and 95 percent of my initial start ticking went away. Then i changed the oil for winter time, 5W-30 Mobil syn blend, and a quart of marvels mystery oil, and after a week, no ticking what so ever. The motor has higher hot running oil pressure by 5 psi, i think because the Marvels mystery oil is cleaning it out. Rotella T is a great oil, i use it in my diesel, but 10w-30 is a little thick for the winter in a newer vehical.
How cold does it get down there in tennessee? I use 10w30 year round, and dont have a problem. If it only does it for a second or two then goes away it's probably ok. OBTW, I'd be using no more than 1/10th of the total crankcase oil capacity in MMO. Any more than that and you're diluting the oil too much IMO.
Just as long as the ticking goes away in a second or two it's not a problem. What filter are you using? You may want to consider a change of brand.
It's probably lifter noise from the top end, and pretty common with dyno oil and even syn on cold days, especially if it's not a daily driven vehicle. My 4.6 '00 did it, but got lots quieter sooner with 0W-30 syn.
Motorcraft always!. Learned my lesson with off brands. The marvel is only about a little over a pint and it is 34 degrees here today It only does it first thing in the moring and didn't do it with castrol 10w-40
I personally only like to run MMO for a thousand miles or so...then I change the oil. I only use it if I think i have build up or sludge. I am currenlty running 5w-30 in mine. I switched to 10w30 for 2 oil changes and I thought the engine ran louder..and developed a knock. I am in temps around 4-20 degrees right now. My manual says 5w30 also so I am back to that.
Castrol Syntec Blend 5w-30, and motorcraft oil filters...
I'm running 10w40 Valvoline Maxlife with a Wix filter on my 300 I6 '95 F150. I have had a few fairly cold starts recently in the range of 10 to 20 F and no ticking noise. Oil has 1000 miles on it. Motorcraft and Purolators have served me well also with no ticking.
Originally posted by BlueRanger94 mountravlr is right. It’s probably just lifter noise.
i too have a ticking sound and was told it was probably lifter noise. what exactly is that. i know what lifters are, but what is causing the ticking and is there any danger in that. i only have 100k miles and want this engine to last a long time. thanks. -jesse
its my understanding that an engine can run an extremely long time with a lifter knocking...I have also heard that sometimes replaceing the lifter does nothing because once the damage is done it cannot be reversed, and it will always knock. Most people I have ever talked to dont panic over lifter noises.
I beleive you can id a lifter because when you turn off the engine the last couple strokes you dont here the noise...which you do with a rod.....anyone feel free to attack me if any of my info is wrong.
Before hydraulic lifters, there was a few thousanths of an inch clearance in the valve train to prevent valves from burning by not closing all the way. That is why some old engines, especially imports, are noisy. Valve clearance or "tappet" adjustments were a common part of a "tuneup" on my old VW's, '84 Toyota pickup and even '66 Dodge van. The rocker is actually hitting the top of the valve stem. Hydaulic lifters are "zero lash", meaning that the valve train runs without clearance. The lifter is filled with oil and has a piston and check valve inside that allows the cam to open the valve but lets spring pressure close the valve completely. If a lifter is not completely filled with oil, the result is a tick, no more harmful than a mechanical lifter setup.
MMO is very good. I used it in my dad's car which he rarely changes the oil in. Put about 3000 miles on the MMO with Mobil 1 oil & filter and changed it again and filled with Mobil 1. (Expensive, but needed it). I have used it in my explorer also and i believe it is not a snake oil or any garbage like that.
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