Still OverHeating!
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Arizona
Still OverHeating!
I had an overheating problem. Replaced upper and lower hoses, heater hose, thermostat, radiator cap and flushed the radiator. Ran Great for two days. Now, it's Pouring coolant out of the bottom front of engine, along the lower hose. Water pump? Freeze Plug? Where are the freeze plugs and how do you replace them?
Thanx in advance!
Thanx in advance!
5th Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
The freeze plugs are on the sides of the block, so most likely it’s the water pump. Try this, make sure you still have coolant in the radiator then start your truck up and let it run until it gets up to normal operating temperature or until it starts to leak, shut it off then take a small mirror and look up under the water pump. There is a small hole in the underside of the water pump housing about three to four inches behind the fan pulley. If you see coolant coming out of this hole or can tell that it has been then the water pump is bad, it no coolant has been coming out then use the mirror and check around the lower radiator hose and where the water pump bolts to the block. Good luck.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Arizona
BINGO! Thanks to all of you guys (and gals). I didn't even have to start the engine...just poured a quart of water in the radiator and slid under to check the drain hole on the water pump...leakin' like a sieve. That's the easy part. Now on to replace the water pump. Haynes doesn't realize you must remove the fan and clutch assembly before you can remove the fan shroud...bummer
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 573
Likes: 0
From: Medina, Tn.
This response may be too late but here goes. While you are at it, you may want to look at replacing your timing chain and sprockets since you are only about 6 bolts away from having it out when you have the pump out. i did mine last Summer and it wasn't too bad. I was skeered though but everything went great.
Good luck,
Good luck,
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 53
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From: Arizona
Thanx for the tip regarding the timing chain. It makes sense not to have to remove everything again. However, I dont have the money for the parts right now.(unfortunately)
I am having a problem with one of the bolts though. The common bolt for the water pump and hinge/bracket will not break loose. I dont want to break the bolt. I sprayed it with wd40 and will wait a bit and try again. It does turn off counterclockwise like the others, right? Any other suggestions? The one on the left side broke off 5 yrs ago and I never dug it out. How? Drill it out? I dont want to have to retap or thread the hole.
thanx
I am having a problem with one of the bolts though. The common bolt for the water pump and hinge/bracket will not break loose. I dont want to break the bolt. I sprayed it with wd40 and will wait a bit and try again. It does turn off counterclockwise like the others, right? Any other suggestions? The one on the left side broke off 5 yrs ago and I never dug it out. How? Drill it out? I dont want to have to retap or thread the hole.
thanx
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,809
Likes: 3
From: Loveland, CO.
I had one break off in there when doing the water pump. I tried heating it with a torch and all that but it would not budge. At that point I gave up and had it towed to the shop. They were able to extract it by removing the timing chain cover to get a better grip on what was left of the bolt, so we put in a new timing chain at the time as well.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 404
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From: Groton, CT
Have somebody drive you to a parts store and pick up a can of PB Blaster. Spray it on, tap (tap not clobber) the bolt with a small hammer. Wait about 15 minutes, then do it again.
Tapping with hammer breaks the solid rust or metal to metal bond, making microscopic cracks. PB gets in there and breaks it up, this stuff is the greatest.
If that does not work, then it is time to break out the explosives.
Tapping with hammer breaks the solid rust or metal to metal bond, making microscopic cracks. PB gets in there and breaks it up, this stuff is the greatest.
If that does not work, then it is time to break out the explosives.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
From: Round Rock, TX
If you can't afford the timing set right now, I'd at least replace the timing cover seals. Water flows through the timing cover as well, and it would be a shame to spring a new leak right behind your new water pump. It should only take you about 20-30 extra minutes; you'll need to borrow a balancer puller though.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Arizona
I used half a can of PB Blaster on that last water pump bolt to no avail. It wont budge...! Any other suggestions would be appreciated... ( what type of explosive, perhaps?)
Thanx...!
Thanx...!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
From: Round Rock, TX
I got them off with a 3/8" impact, or maybe it was the 1/2". At any rate, it took a little force since they'd been there for a while. If you don't have air available, a breaker bar will do the trick. If the bolt is going to break, it's going to break; there's no sense sitting on it for a few days trying to out-think a bolt. The only thing you haven't tried besides excessive force is heat.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 53
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From: Arizona
O.K., I used my breaker bar and broke the bolt. Removed the water pump and a 1" stub is left. Tried vice grips, no go. The broken bolt on the left side (from 5 yrs ago) is inset 1/8". Can I drill into it and remove it? I really dont want to remove the timing chain cover...
thanx
thanx
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 813
Likes: 0
From: NJ
grind the broken bolt flatt and center punch it. start small like an eighth inch bit and drill slow and steady make sure you are in the center of the stud. now go to the next size drill bit and work you way up until you are to the size that the bolt is. now buy a good tap and retapp the hole , well realy you should just be cleanoing the threads out and if you take your time and dont get dscusted you should have no problems. sometimes the heat from drilling may be enough to loosen the stud so you can use an easyout and remove the broken bolt.
just use good quality drill bits and TAKE YOUR TIME.
when reassembling use never sieze so it does not happen again.
oh yeah dont drill to deep and cause more problems for yourself
just use good quality drill bits and TAKE YOUR TIME.
when reassembling use never sieze so it does not happen again.
oh yeah dont drill to deep and cause more problems for yourself
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
From: Round Rock, TX
Get somebody to weld onto that 1" stub, then you'll have plenty to work with for getting it out. I know, it sucks. I had to pull a head back in the spring and take it to the machine shop because an intake bolt broke off while I was just trying to do the intake gaskets. It cost me about an extra $100 for the gaskets and the machine work when I had to pull that head.