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Just want to double check with you guys. Far as I can tell, as you are facing the back of the ammeter (original) the post on the right is the negative and the post on the left is the positive. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I am a few connections away from getting to begin testing my connections!!!!!!
I hope you are talking about a volt meter, the amp meter goes in series with the charging system or between the alt. and the battery. If it is an ampmeter and you hook one side to ground some exciting things will happen just before the amp meter burns up. A volt meter will probable read from 8 to 18 volts. An ampmeter will probable read -30 to +30 and the needle will be in the middle when there is no current drain. Hope this helps
Well, I smoked the original gauge. It seemed to be working fine until I got a little carried away. I was testing the new harness using a 10amp setting from a battery charger, just like the Painless directions said to. I pulled on the lights a few times. Then tried the turn signals, no problems. Brake lights were next, good to go. Then I hit them all at once. The overwhelming smell of smoke disturbed me. I looked in the cab and saw it coming from the ammeter. The needle was pegged to the "C" (right) on the gauge. So, did I have the wires the wrong way like billemc said? It didn't do that when I only had one switch on at a time.
Please let me know. I want to go buy a voltmeter shortly if that would be better and since my original gauge is done.
Yeah an ammeter has a plus and a minus side for polarity or in other words the direction of the current.
I'm not familiar with the painless harness but do they want an ammeter or a voltmeter there?
Also how thick are the painless wires that run to the ammeter (or voltmeter)? My guess is if they are thick (and they want a ammeter) then they wanted an ammeter with a built-in shunt. The original ammeter has a remote shunt in the harness under the hood, that's why the factory wiring is thin to the gauge, it carries a very small fraction of the actual charging current. If so, you pumped a hell of a lot of current through the stock gauge and let all the smoke out.
Yeah, it's dead. I got a voltmeter at Checkers and already installed it. Painless does indeed have the 12 gauge wires to the ammeter. It does not require an ammeter though. The voltmeter was a heck of a lot easier to wire in. Everything seems to be working. Thanks for the explanation to why I cooked it though. Lesson learned.