Replacing U-joints?
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
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Do I have to remove the entire front axle assembly to replace the wheel joints?
Ok, I went to a mechanic shop to have my two front wheel joints [U-Joints] and my front and rear U Joints replaced. The mechanic told me that he had to remove the axle and the entire hub assembly to replace the Wheel Joints. Is this correct?
He also said that the total amount of labor thats going to be invloved in replacing the front wheel joints is One Hour each side.
Am i getting flamboosled here?
I wont bring the truck in untill i hear it from you guys first.
Oh, the truck is a 89EB 351W.
He also said that the total amount of labor thats going to be invloved in replacing the front wheel joints is One Hour each side.
Am i getting flamboosled here?
I wont bring the truck in untill i hear it from you guys first.
Oh, the truck is a 89EB 351W.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: GANS
One hour for replace the ujoint on one side seems about right to me. It is fairly involved.
You have to take off the hubs, rotors, and then the spindle, then you have to pull out the axle shaft from the diff or the slipyoke, depending on the side.
You have to take off the hubs, rotors, and then the spindle, then you have to pull out the axle shaft from the diff or the slipyoke, depending on the side.
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I am going to be needing similar work done in the future. How much do you think the whole job would cost, ball-joints and u-joints? How feasible is it to do yourself, for a average guy with basic tools? Also, considering an add-leaf in the rear, which I am planning to do myself, any particular insight on that? Never done it before.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: GANS
btw, they _don't_ have to remove the tierods or balljoints to do the ujoints.
I'd say it'd add another 1 to 1.5hr each side to do tierods and balljoints.
you can do it, it takes a good while to do it, and you'll have to buy a few tools (ie 1-5/16" open end wrench and a 1-1/8" 6 point socket, and a balljoint seperator). If you unsure about doing an add-a-leaf, you probably shouldn't do the ball joints unless you have another car / truck to drive.
I'd say it'd add another 1 to 1.5hr each side to do tierods and balljoints.
you can do it, it takes a good while to do it, and you'll have to buy a few tools (ie 1-5/16" open end wrench and a 1-1/8" 6 point socket, and a balljoint seperator). If you unsure about doing an add-a-leaf, you probably shouldn't do the ball joints unless you have another car / truck to drive.
Last edited by bremen242; Jan 24, 2004 at 06:35 PM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,406
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From: Wheatland, Mo
Well true..they dont need to remove em...but once they get the axel out all that is left is 3 bolts...and some pounding.
It is feasible to do them your self. I just finished mine about an hour ago..took me the day. Had I taken it somewhere...I would of been charged about 550 bucks with parts. Without parts, about 325. Now you see why I decided to do it myself. It is a pain but it can be done. Now all I need is to get an alignment.
It is feasible to do them your self. I just finished mine about an hour ago..took me the day. Had I taken it somewhere...I would of been charged about 550 bucks with parts. Without parts, about 325. Now you see why I decided to do it myself. It is a pain but it can be done. Now all I need is to get an alignment.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: CT
I did my ball joints and u joints on the axles in an afternoon if you have a good vise and a bug hammer no problem just be patiant it will come apart I also changed the spindle bearing and wheel bearings,drag link, and tue rod ends. As long as it is all apart I just did it all. cost me in parts around 350.00 If I did it at a shop it was over a thousand. There is a great savings to do it yourself. plan on a whole day or a little more. This site is a great help if you run into any problems. DO your self a favor an get good parts TRW or MOOG you will only want to do it once good luck Peter
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