Headers and starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
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Headers and starter
I've come to the realization that even if I manage to get my headers unbolted from the exhaust manifold, I still can't get my starter out.
Anyone know if it's possible to unhook headers from tell pipe, push them out enough to get starter out?
Anyone know if it's possible to unhook headers from tell pipe, push them out enough to get starter out?
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: in the springs
it is possible to get it out once the headers are off just get em loose and then tie em toward the fender with a hager around the frame. and my advise for the boltsis extensions and extensions and the get a few more extensions i tightened my starter bolts while standing in front of my truck. (learned that one pulling starters on ARMY pc's)
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
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From: Texas
Headers are bolted to the heads. Do not remove the heads to get the starter out. Worst comes to worse, unbolt the headers from the heads, undo the engine mount from that side of the engine and lift that side of the engine if you have the equipment to do so (watch for clearance issues elsewhere around the engine). Engine hoist is best, others have done it with floor jacks and lumber. This is one way to get some space to work with.
Checking for understanding, you do have headers , not stock exhaust log style manifolds, correct?
How are the headers connected to the rest of your exhaust. You should be unable to disconnect them there and get more space to help remove the starter, possibly without liftin one side of the engine.
Good luck..
Checking for understanding, you do have headers , not stock exhaust log style manifolds, correct?
How are the headers connected to the rest of your exhaust. You should be unable to disconnect them there and get more space to help remove the starter, possibly without liftin one side of the engine.
Good luck..
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Senior User
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Understand you on the extensions now - good idea.
Yes, I have actual headers. I'm soaking the exhaust manifold bolts now with Liquid wrench.. I tried turning them, and was just twisting the head. As far as getting the starter from where the headers connect to the exhaust pipe, the headers end after the starter, making that impossible. I'm really looking at a big job for a $30 starter.
I don't have a hoist or lift. Just a driveway and a daughter that is turning out to be a good mechanic.
Yes, I have actual headers. I'm soaking the exhaust manifold bolts now with Liquid wrench.. I tried turning them, and was just twisting the head. As far as getting the starter from where the headers connect to the exhaust pipe, the headers end after the starter, making that impossible. I'm really looking at a big job for a $30 starter.
I don't have a hoist or lift. Just a driveway and a daughter that is turning out to be a good mechanic.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,175
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From: Texas
I'm not sure if you understood what I was trying to say. If you can unattach the header at the collector (where the header connects to the rest of the exhaust plumbing), and at the heads, you should be able to position the header out of the way to help get to the starter.
take your time on the exhaust header bolts. It sounds like they are in bad shape. Use the lube and tap the bolts a little. Use a low-torque 3/8" air ratchet if you have one available.
take your time on the exhaust header bolts. It sounds like they are in bad shape. Use the lube and tap the bolts a little. Use a low-torque 3/8" air ratchet if you have one available.
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I just did this job yesterday on my '68 f100. I pulled the headers from the block. After listening to your troubles on another post I thought they would be difficult. My header bolts came out with a regular ratchet and a minimum of effort. I guess I was lucky. My headers ended at a flange. I had to disconnect that end as well to get the starter out. I don't know what to do if the headers are welded into the rest of the exhaust system. I would suggest lossening the entire exhaust mess to see if you can get a little more space. Good Luck.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: KS
If the guy before you did the right thing he used anti-sieze compound on the bolts. This is to prevent them from becoming a rusted up mess. Make sure you do the same when you re-install, it's cheap insurance for next time.
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