Ball Joints
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,404
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From: Wheatland, Mo
Ball Joints
OK I need help on this one since I have taken apart my hubs, rotors etc. I have removed the spindle nuts but I cant get the spindle to budge. I am only doing one side at a time so right now I am on the passenger side. Am i missing something?
HALP!!!
HALP!!!
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: NJ
nope they are a pain to get off. have you sprayed them with penetrating oil?they rust in there pretty good. do not hit them with a metal hammer because you can shock the temper out of them. a heavy plastic hammer can be used. dont expect it to be an easy task but they will come out. just keep working it and they will break loose. when you reinstall them make sure the seating surfaces are clean or else the spindle could not sit flat and that will cause brake and alignment problems.
maybe you can use a puller but dont push the puller against the axle. and while you have it that far apart how about new axel u joints.
maybe you can use a puller but dont push the puller against the axle. and while you have it that far apart how about new axel u joints.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Wheatland, Mo
I was thinking about a puller but if not against the axle, then against what? Or do you mean not directly? LIke a block of wood between puller and axel? I have soaked it and have been using a block with a metal hammer...but it hasn't moved at all. OGH!! I need to get his done by end of day Sunday...or I'm in big trouble...its my daily driver.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Wheatland, Mo
New axel U-joints are in the box next to the ball joints. This will be all that is left and the beast will be 100% mechanically sound. I have already replaced everything else...engine, tranny, t-case, gears....or at least had em replaced. Im begining to think I may have this done for me as well.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Wheatland, Mo
OK Progress....the spindle is now off...a block of wood and a hammer. Just enough to loosen it then pryed it off the rest pretty easily. But now my axel wont come out! I had vaugley remember reading something about that there is an extra step to get the axles out...but I cant remember which side. UGH!! What next.
I had vaugley remember reading something about that there is an extra step to get the axles out...but I cant remember which side. UGH!! What next.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: NJ
i remember on my ranger i could not get the axel out of the passenger side so i just went under and cut he band that covered the slip joint on the axel and then i took out the axel and left the one piece in the pumpkin. dont remember if this can be done on the bronco but it might be worth a look see.
good luck and let us know how you make out. oh i do remember that the driver side was easy to get the axel out.
good luck and let us know how you make out. oh i do remember that the driver side was easy to get the axel out.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Wheatland, Mo
OK more progress...I now have the axle out.....I have the nuts loose on the knuckle...but I cant get the damn thing to break loose. I have beat on that damn thing like crazy...any hints? I haven't done anything yet with the alignment adjuster thing-a-ma-bob. I saw intructuins that said you can leave it as it is.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: NJ
did you get a ball joint seperator? if not you are gonna have to hit the kuckle real hard to break the ball joint stud loose from the knuckle
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: GANS
You need to goto sears and buy their forged ball joint seperator. Place it between the axle house and spindle and smack a few times with a 3# hammer. Do it on the top and bottom balljoints. it'll come all at once (ie make sure you foot isn't in the way of the ground and knuckle!)
btw, once you get the knuckle off, tap out the adjuster on the top and coat it with never-seize. It'll save time for your alignment people, and they will like you. heck sometimes they won't align your car until those are freed loose.
also, don't coat your ball joints in never-seize, unless you have an impact wrench. TRUST ME!
btw, once you get the knuckle off, tap out the adjuster on the top and coat it with never-seize. It'll save time for your alignment people, and they will like you. heck sometimes they won't align your car until those are freed loose.
also, don't coat your ball joints in never-seize, unless you have an impact wrench. TRUST ME!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Wheatland, Mo
NOTE TO SELF: (and anyone else changing ball joints.)
Do not attempt to use a regular hammer on the pickle fork to remove the knuckle from the axle frame. TAKES TOO DAMN LONG!
Remove passenger side assembly including knuckle = 4 hrs
Remove Drivers side assembly with right sledge hammer = 20 min.
I said the hell with using the manual ball joint press after fighting it for an hour. Waiting for machine shop to call me and tell me my new ball joints are installed. Thansk for the tips BOJOFASO.
Do not attempt to use a regular hammer on the pickle fork to remove the knuckle from the axle frame. TAKES TOO DAMN LONG!
Remove passenger side assembly including knuckle = 4 hrs
Remove Drivers side assembly with right sledge hammer = 20 min.
I said the hell with using the manual ball joint press after fighting it for an hour. Waiting for machine shop to call me and tell me my new ball joints are installed. Thansk for the tips BOJOFASO.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: GANS
actually, for me (i've done my f150 and f250) it takes about 5 minutes to pound them out with a bar (including the extra rust and sludge from 18 years of PA winter and salt corrosion) and a vice, and about another 10 minutes to hammer them back in with a bar. (the 2nd part takes 2 people).
I agree that the machine shop would be the way to go. However, with the machine shops around here, it'd probably cost about as much as a press and a few pieces of pipe to get the job done!.
btw, was your ball-joint fork forged? I got one from an autoparts store, and I bent the living @#$%@# out of the forks after about 20 minutes of pounding (plus I have a big hammer). I got a forged one and it only took about 10 hits apiece to drop the spindles.
I agree that the machine shop would be the way to go. However, with the machine shops around here, it'd probably cost about as much as a press and a few pieces of pipe to get the job done!.
btw, was your ball-joint fork forged? I got one from an autoparts store, and I bent the living @#$%@# out of the forks after about 20 minutes of pounding (plus I have a big hammer). I got a forged one and it only took about 10 hits apiece to drop the spindles.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Wheatland, Mo
I think it was forged. It was one of those rentals from autozone along with the press. It didnt fade at all. And I BEAT the hell out of it.
All I know is....IM AM DONE!
It took the entire fricken day...but hey...I DID IT!
Now I know why they charge so damn much to do em at the shops.
But wow what a difference in handling now.
All I know is....IM AM DONE!
It took the entire fricken day...but hey...I DID IT!
Now I know why they charge so damn much to do em at the shops.
But wow what a difference in handling now.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,563
Likes: 33
From: Swansea SC
Front end
Geeze Billy Bob ,sound like u had a job, i think ill pass on that work ill just work a day or two over time to let some once else do it .When i get a hammer and have to hit thangs---watch out something breaking-------usually a finger 
TR Glad ya got it
TR Glad ya got it
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: GANS
I guess thats not too bad for $45. I had an axle bearing on my 9" pressed on and off, and it cost me $100!! (that was with the bearing though). 1 year before, I had another guy do it, and he charged me $100 for _both_ axles and bearing!.
I could have a real nice press from harbor feight for that!
I could have a real nice press from harbor feight for that!