hard warm start
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 165
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From: St. Louis, MO
hard warm start
Lately it's been getting more difficult for me to start my truck after I've been driving it for awhile. If I don't let it set for at least 20 minutes or so between start ups, it won't turn over. All I get is a flooded engine.
I've have an electric choke on the carburetor. Could it be faulty?
The carburetor was bought in the fall of 2002.
Thanks.
I've have an electric choke on the carburetor. Could it be faulty?
The carburetor was bought in the fall of 2002.
Thanks.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
Choke shouldn't be a problem if it has the plate opened when it is hot. How is the start up when cold? Knowing what carb you have might help, many Ford models had a power valve in them when bad will cause a flood condition. When you shut down the hot engine , remove the air filter and look into the carb. Is there a light smoke vapor coming up? Sure sign it is draining fuel when stopped.Let us know. Good luck.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,323
Likes: 2
From: Montana Territory
I would think that there is something stuck under the needle valve, and it is remaining open causing it to flood. Cleaning this out should be a top priority, and then replacing the fuel filter to keep this from happening again.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 908
Likes: 4
Saying "it won't turn over" would mean that the starter is having trouble cranking the engine.
Yet, I've seen many people say "it won't turn over" when they mean "I crank it and crank it and it won't start." Not the same thing at all.
It's important to know which problem you have before anybody can offer any real help.
Yet, I've seen many people say "it won't turn over" when they mean "I crank it and crank it and it won't start." Not the same thing at all.
It's important to know which problem you have before anybody can offer any real help.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,371
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From: Green Springs, OH
Is it like the timing is too far advanced or starter is "bucking" like turning over really slow it sounds like its the starter wire make sure they are routed away from exhaust manifolds or get a bigger wire or could be a worn out starter. Mine does the same thing just havent had the time to re route wire yet cause mine runs right by the manifold on the inside of the frame.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: St. Louis, MO
Thanks for all the replies.
So far it seems to be a little better. I have noticed the more I drive the vehicle, the easier it is for it to crank over. Before I would crank it, crank it, crank it, and nothing (starter turns). No fire. Just a very strong gas smell.
To clarify a few things before any more suggestions are made, everything is all original. Yes, twenty-five year old parts are very prevelant on this vehicle - including the air pump. The only thing that was touched on the engine were the usual stuff after I bought it and had the local garage perform a tune-up. It included new wires, plugs, rotor, cap, PVC, belts, air filter, etc.
For whatever reasons it doesn't seem to be flooding anymore. I know this sounds strange but it seems to be true. I have used octane boosters and injection cleaners the last two tank fulls and the engine seems to be running very well. When it gets warmer, I plan on replacing the fuel filters and taking a look at the carburetor. I know it's only a year or so old but that doesn't mean much considering it sat for almost 7 months before I bought it.
Like I said, when it gets warmer I plan on replacing the battery cables and filters. Drive it awhile and see how that effect the situation. Maybe I'll replace the starter solenoid as well.
Thanks.
So far it seems to be a little better. I have noticed the more I drive the vehicle, the easier it is for it to crank over. Before I would crank it, crank it, crank it, and nothing (starter turns). No fire. Just a very strong gas smell.
To clarify a few things before any more suggestions are made, everything is all original. Yes, twenty-five year old parts are very prevelant on this vehicle - including the air pump. The only thing that was touched on the engine were the usual stuff after I bought it and had the local garage perform a tune-up. It included new wires, plugs, rotor, cap, PVC, belts, air filter, etc.
For whatever reasons it doesn't seem to be flooding anymore. I know this sounds strange but it seems to be true. I have used octane boosters and injection cleaners the last two tank fulls and the engine seems to be running very well. When it gets warmer, I plan on replacing the fuel filters and taking a look at the carburetor. I know it's only a year or so old but that doesn't mean much considering it sat for almost 7 months before I bought it.
Like I said, when it gets warmer I plan on replacing the battery cables and filters. Drive it awhile and see how that effect the situation. Maybe I'll replace the starter solenoid as well.
Thanks.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,371
Likes: 10
From: Green Springs, OH
Oh it will crank over fine but wont fire. My truck did this until it go so bad it would not do anything ended up being the ignition module you might want to check that before you get stranded.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 908
Likes: 4
If the starter is cranking the engine, then there is nothing wrong with it, the cables, or the solenoid.
The engine is flooding. The cause is either the carb or your starting habits.
It is possible that it's a weak spark which would indicate a problem with the ignition.
The engine is flooding. The cause is either the carb or your starting habits.
It is possible that it's a weak spark which would indicate a problem with the ignition.
New User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 9
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From: Portland,OR
I had the same problem with my 400 and got tired of messing with it so changed the stock 2 barrel manifold and carb to a 4 barrel and still had the same problem. Then I figured it was boiling gas so then I bought a Phenolic spacer and now she starts immediately every time, hot or cold.
I don't know if they make a spacer like that for the 2 barrel but longer bolts and more dissipators might do the trick.
I don't know if they make a spacer like that for the 2 barrel but longer bolts and more dissipators might do the trick.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 908
Likes: 4
Yep. The phenolic spacer is a big help. I had the same problem on a '62 Ford. Boiling gas. The phenolic spacer cured it.
Another thing that causes it - the phenolic floats get porous with age, become logged, and don't float normally, causing the bowl to flood and run down the carb throat.
Another thing that causes it - the phenolic floats get porous with age, become logged, and don't float normally, causing the bowl to flood and run down the carb throat.
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