Automatic window conversion
#1
Automatic window conversion
Has anybody attempted to add the "Auto" feature to automatically roll down the driver side window when the button is pressed? I'm guessing that it's something in the switch. I was thinking that maybe a 2-door Explorer switch could be massaged to fit, but most of the 2-door Explorers that I see are XL or Sport packages with no frills.
#2
Automatic window conversion
I've been thinking about it for a while, but I haven't found the right donor vehicle. Some of the early cars with that feature used a timer to detect how long you held the button down. If you held it for more than a second, it went into auto mode. I think with a little "adjustment" , I can make it work on ALL the windows in BOTH directions.
#3
#4
Automatic window conversion
"There's no reason any American should have to work to make his automatic windows operate. "
Very funny Bigric. I think I remember that in the Bill of Rights. Is this a great country, or what?
Manufacturers would never make an auto up, especially for passenger windows, for fear of trapping unsuspecting kids arms...We also have the right to keep and bear arms.
...Groan...
Very funny Bigric. I think I remember that in the Bill of Rights. Is this a great country, or what?
Manufacturers would never make an auto up, especially for passenger windows, for fear of trapping unsuspecting kids arms...We also have the right to keep and bear arms.
...Groan...
#7
Automatic window conversion
Thanks JBronco. I started the same thread in the Explorer forum and here's what I got from them:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=116968
I'm guessing that the Taurus uses a similar setup that could be adapted. I will have to look into this module now.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=116968
I'm guessing that the Taurus uses a similar setup that could be adapted. I will have to look into this module now.
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#8
Automatic window conversion
Audi actually makes an auto up and down system. The thing detects objects, arms, heads, etc. that get in the way and will stop the window from severing s the limb/object.
On my Honda, the switch has two stages. The first stage operates the window normally, the second stage will put it in auto. When I get back home I'll take a look at the service manual and see if I can figure out how the thing works.
On my Honda, the switch has two stages. The first stage operates the window normally, the second stage will put it in auto. When I get back home I'll take a look at the service manual and see if I can figure out how the thing works.
#9
#10
Automatic window conversion
Thanks to yalls leads, here's what I've come up with:
http://www.shotimes.com/SHO4expressdown.html
Looks easy enough; I just need to find a junkyard with some of these now.
http://www.shotimes.com/SHO4expressdown.html
Looks easy enough; I just need to find a junkyard with some of these now.
#11
Automatic window conversion
I picked up one of the Taurus modules on Ebay today for $15 shipped. I'll let everybody know how it turns out. And I'll photodocument everything, a la Steve, in case anybody else wants to do this.
I've also found a reference to a module that you can hook multiple windows up to for automatic up/down control, but I haven't been able to find pricing. If anybody is interested, I'll re-research it and post model numbers and the sort.
And by the way, the Ford name for the auto-down feature is called "Express Down."
I've also found a reference to a module that you can hook multiple windows up to for automatic up/down control, but I haven't been able to find pricing. If anybody is interested, I'll re-research it and post model numbers and the sort.
And by the way, the Ford name for the auto-down feature is called "Express Down."
#12
Automatic window conversion
I'm going to see if Ken will add this as a tech article, but here it is for now. I got all three windows to work
This article describes how to adapt a power window to utilize the “express down” feature. At the end of the article is information specific to ’92-96 full-size trucks and Broncos.
A little information about the module:
To the best of my knowledge and experience in the junkyard, these modules were only used in generation 2 Taurus/Sable vehicles. They can be found inside the driver doorskin, mounted underneath the armrest support. The Ford part number for the module is: F2DB-14B118-AB. I have heard that the dealer price for these modules is around $50, but if you grab a handful of them and tell the junkyard guy that they’re just window relays, you’ll get better treatment. If you’re cutting it out of a junkyard car, of course you want to get as much of the harness wiring as possible.
And now for the installation information:
There are five wires coming off of the express down module. They are as follows:
1 – Motor side of down wire (red)
2 – Switch side of down wire (white/black)
3 - +12V (blue/black)
4 – Up wire (yellow)
5 – Ground (black)
If you remove the module from the harness, you will be able to see the numbers stamped into the plastic.
For the switch to which you want to connect the module, use a meter or test light to identify:
- keyed +12V wire
- ground wire
- the wire that goes to +12V when you press “up”
- the wire that goes to +12V when you press “down”
Here are the connections that must now be made:
Use an inline spice to connect module #3 to the keyed +12V source.
Use an inline splice to connect module #4 to the “up” wire
Use an inline splice to connect module #5 to the ground
Cut the “down” wire, leaving yourself enough room to butt splice each end. Connect module #1 to the electric motor side of this wire. Connect module #2 to the switch side of this wire.
At this point, all of the electrical connections have been made. All that is left to you is to reassemble everything and fasten the module so that it doesn’t rattle.
’92-96 specific information:
Since I performed this modification to a ’92 Bronco, I can provide the wire colors for ’92-96 trucks.
Driver door panel, driver window switch:
Down: gray/black
Up: yellow
Keyed +12V: blue/black
Passenger door panel, passenger window switch:
Down: pink/yellow
Up: yellow/red
Keyed +12V: blue/black
Ground: pink/green
Dash rear window switch:
Down: purple/blue
Up: purple/green
Keyed +12V: blue/black
Ground: black
A few more things to note about trucks of these years:
The door “pockets” underneath each front switch will perfectly accommodate the control module without any extra attachment; just stuff the module underneath the switch and it won’t rattle. Likewise with the dash switch; it will go right behind the wires coming off of the headlight switch and stay put.
If you put a module on the passenger door passenger window switch, then either the driver or passenger door passenger switch will operate the passenger window with the express down feature.
On the Bronco, I hooked the rear window module #3 to an always-on +12V source, but this did not allow the switch in the tailgate to activate the express-down feature. At this time, all of my wiring diagrams are packed away somewhere, so I’m not sure if these two switches are indeed on different circuits. I’m open to suggestions on this one.
This article was adapted from SHOtimes. The original article may be viewed at http://www.shotimes.com/SHO4expressdown.html.
This article describes how to adapt a power window to utilize the “express down” feature. At the end of the article is information specific to ’92-96 full-size trucks and Broncos.
A little information about the module:
To the best of my knowledge and experience in the junkyard, these modules were only used in generation 2 Taurus/Sable vehicles. They can be found inside the driver doorskin, mounted underneath the armrest support. The Ford part number for the module is: F2DB-14B118-AB. I have heard that the dealer price for these modules is around $50, but if you grab a handful of them and tell the junkyard guy that they’re just window relays, you’ll get better treatment. If you’re cutting it out of a junkyard car, of course you want to get as much of the harness wiring as possible.
And now for the installation information:
There are five wires coming off of the express down module. They are as follows:
1 – Motor side of down wire (red)
2 – Switch side of down wire (white/black)
3 - +12V (blue/black)
4 – Up wire (yellow)
5 – Ground (black)
If you remove the module from the harness, you will be able to see the numbers stamped into the plastic.
For the switch to which you want to connect the module, use a meter or test light to identify:
- keyed +12V wire
- ground wire
- the wire that goes to +12V when you press “up”
- the wire that goes to +12V when you press “down”
Here are the connections that must now be made:
Use an inline spice to connect module #3 to the keyed +12V source.
Use an inline splice to connect module #4 to the “up” wire
Use an inline splice to connect module #5 to the ground
Cut the “down” wire, leaving yourself enough room to butt splice each end. Connect module #1 to the electric motor side of this wire. Connect module #2 to the switch side of this wire.
At this point, all of the electrical connections have been made. All that is left to you is to reassemble everything and fasten the module so that it doesn’t rattle.
’92-96 specific information:
Since I performed this modification to a ’92 Bronco, I can provide the wire colors for ’92-96 trucks.
Driver door panel, driver window switch:
Down: gray/black
Up: yellow
Keyed +12V: blue/black
Passenger door panel, passenger window switch:
Down: pink/yellow
Up: yellow/red
Keyed +12V: blue/black
Ground: pink/green
Dash rear window switch:
Down: purple/blue
Up: purple/green
Keyed +12V: blue/black
Ground: black
A few more things to note about trucks of these years:
The door “pockets” underneath each front switch will perfectly accommodate the control module without any extra attachment; just stuff the module underneath the switch and it won’t rattle. Likewise with the dash switch; it will go right behind the wires coming off of the headlight switch and stay put.
If you put a module on the passenger door passenger window switch, then either the driver or passenger door passenger switch will operate the passenger window with the express down feature.
On the Bronco, I hooked the rear window module #3 to an always-on +12V source, but this did not allow the switch in the tailgate to activate the express-down feature. At this time, all of my wiring diagrams are packed away somewhere, so I’m not sure if these two switches are indeed on different circuits. I’m open to suggestions on this one.
This article was adapted from SHOtimes. The original article may be viewed at http://www.shotimes.com/SHO4expressdown.html.
Last edited by bigric; 07-03-2003 at 10:32 AM.
#13
Automatic window conversion
For the rear window to access the express down from the t/g key switch, you'd have to power the module from circuit breaker 12 (power locks) in the dash fuse block, or hook it up inside the tailgate to the Bk/Wh wire off that CB. I'm not sure if the dash switch would still be able to activate the express that way, though. I think it would, but I haven't checked out the circuit enough to know.
Last edited by steve83; 07-03-2003 at 11:22 AM.
#14
Automatic window conversion
Thanks for the tech tip. It looks very useful. If I ever get VERY motivated I might do this! Two questions. 1) Are you saying that it works on the rear window or not? and 2) Do you or anybody know if the wire colors or anything might be different on my 1990? Thanks
#15