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Low heat Problem

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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 02:40 PM
  #1  
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loudwayne
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From: S. Ontario
Low heat Problem

Gooday F250 Peoples
Since I got my truck the cab heater has been a furnace.
Could not stand it on high fan & just with open flow it was a blast of B.T.U.'s
Now, & last week in the cold snappz
it dropped to a luke warm trickle & my guage is riding on Cold
I tried a front on the rad& temp rose slightly yet still poor heat
i am guesing that it has a low thermostat
Is that a big job R&R?
looks like my alternator has to be R&R as well to get at that housing?
How about some exp. tips on this with a 7.3 i.d.i?
I kno about dropping & replacing the cooling before starting,
don't need any surprises, otherwise
Napa has a part for $12.00cdn
I can live with that
cant take the frozen steering wheel!!
 
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 03:54 PM
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You might want to go to International dealer for the t-stat. I went to a local auto parts store and got one that fits, but it didnt operate properly. There is some type of seal of something that the engine is designed for. Besides, the stat at Intl wont be any more money, but the right part for the engine. There is no shortcut to installing the stat in the engine. sorry
 
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 08:29 PM
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loudwayne
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bilder12
Yes, I will buy an I.H. stat cause i kno what U mean about aftermarket parts!
It has happened with 3 other items i ahve tried from2nd market
& it means double time & travel to take it back 7 they don't have the right one instock!!
 
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 10:22 PM
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The original thermostat is usually the problem. It has a rubber seal that goes around it to help it seal I guess. The rubber comes off the seal and gets stuck in the stat, holding it partway open. I've put lots of Napa t-stats in these motors with no problems.

You have to keep going past the Alt. Take the vac pump and the fuel filter mount off too, then you can pull the water outlet. There is also an air bleed check ball that is usually stuck in the outlet that should be freed up before you put it back together.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 11:34 PM
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loudwayne
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Spectramac
where is this air bleed chrck ball, located?
Gotcha on the R&R of the vac & fuel mnt.!
Napa stats are OK?
guess i'll need gaskets for vac pmp,as well?
 
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 09:55 AM
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Air bleed chk ball is in the tstat housing.I also recomend a oem tstat,have heard of problems with others.Vac pump is bolted on with a bracket,so there is no gasket involved.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 01:19 PM
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Thanx pnose
Just got back with my I.H. tstat & gsaket,list$22.00 as oppsed to 12.95 @ NAPA
makes me wonder what there made like,tinfoil??
Anyhow I thoght better of using an aftermarket part in such a critical control operation!
Gotcha on the vac pump being external.
Is it ,check & free the chk ball ,if needed or R&R with new part?Hows this Jan. weather treating U & Truck??
 
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 08:00 PM
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Should be just make sure ball is free.Be carefull there is a cork i believe, gasket/ring that holds the ball in place,you dont want to damage it. Jan weather is treating my truck fine,no probs on starting and it loves to push snow,you can really hear the growl from the straigth pipe(no muffler) when youve got a pile of snow on the blade chugging along.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2004 | 10:23 PM
  #9  
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loudwayne
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Pnose
I see what you mean about the check ball & gasket or rubber retainer. This job is compltete & confirmed tstat rubber was about 1/2 missing. New one from I.H. installed.
had to start another thread re; plugged heater core
Engine temp came up after change tstat yet cab heater worsened & fluctuates from cool to warm.
I figue a heatercore flush will fix it??
What thinks you?
 
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Old Jan 17, 2004 | 11:09 PM
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You may be right on the heater core flush,however i would also ckeck the heater intake for debris(leaves etc).Remove the grille between the bonnet and the windshield,look inside for debris blocking the core intake.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2004 | 03:45 PM
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loudwayne
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I was thinking that my control is malfing yet sometimes the haeter hoses r good & hot (both) next time the return seems cool. Feed is always hot.found out my waterpump is due/ bearings shot not leaking)O hBoy More bucks i ain't got .Lord pity
on a poor boy!
Later, FTE peoples
wayne
 
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Old Jan 18, 2004 | 10:29 PM
  #12  
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Originally posted by pnose
You may be right on the heater core flush,however i would also ckeck the heater intake for debris(leaves etc).Remove the grille between the bonnet and the windshield,look inside for debris blocking the core intake.
-in that case probably be best to remove the passenger fender because the inlet is clear on the vertical portion of the cab not the horizontal- what year truck is it- some years it is as simple as popping out (literally) the glove box to gain access to the heater core- be a lot faster then removing the wiper cowl if that is your body style
 
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 08:28 AM
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MRZ
I'm not doing the body work ,yet although I do need new fenders.
It is a '92XLT & both hoses visibally enter the core form the firewall.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 05:20 PM
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Hmmm- I know on the 88 I had, if you pop out the glove box (the whole unit) you can access the heater core, without having to spend an hour lying on your back fishing stuff out of the way.

I don't know for sure on your 92'- but someone has bound to have had to change one on a 92' here- I think they are the same cab but don't hold me on how the interior pieces are 'snapped' together
 
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 06:05 AM
  #15  
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Never suggested removing it,just said to look for leaves and such blocking the air from going through it under the intake for it,which is under the windshield.Pop off the wiper arms and remove the 8(i think)screws,and take a look.
 
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