My first thoughts as well I installed a new thermostat and new fluid after I flushed the heater core which u can blow very easily through with ur mouth u can pore water in one hose through a funnel and ur runs right out other side my gauge never clears the temp picture on the gauge

 

I also today there might be a cabin filter under the black plastic under the windshield wipers so I took it off and no cabin filter at all however when u turn heat or air on it blows out air from under there Idk what that is maybe just a vent Idk if it might be related to the problem

 

Just sat in truck with key on position switch on off and turned from hot to cold u can hear a little moter and it fee spins the sounds like the blend door seals and moter stops does so in both directions

 

U can hear the slightest bit of resistance at the end as if it is pushing pressure to seal the blend door still can wrap my head on why it blows harder when on cold than hot

 

Could we reopen the blend door discussion? I am just now needing to fix it. But I'd like to see if I can get one of you to confirm. The AC was blowing hot air. But then we noticed that we could hear a flap closing. So the game has been, to keep it cold, to stop somewhat abruptly, then turn on the AC, then DO NOT accelerate quickly or you will hear the "shut" which makes the air turn hot. Now, I have gone to auto zone and bought two things: Air Door Actutator, and Blend Door Repair Kit, both supposed to be for 1999 Expedition. I don't yet know which I need. I am looking to do the fix through the glove compartment which I understand is possible, although no one mentioned it here back in 2004. Can I get some guidance?? Many thanks!

 

I'm at a loss on one of these, a 2001 with manual HVAC. Replaced a leaking and clogged heater core. No heat. Blend door stuck full cold. Unbolted the blend door motor just enough to rotate it and the blend door to get heat. (Not without breaking a couple things)
That worked to get us through the winter until I had a chance to replace the actuator. Replaced it with a Dorman unit-for manual AC- and it doesn't move. Happily I checked before reassembling everything. Experimentation reveals the old one failed trying to close the blend door to infinity. The little motor just ran against the stop until it gave out. The new Dorman looks a bit different inside. I can flip the gears out of it and plug it back in and it "centers" the pivot. IE, half warm, half cold. And refuses to budge. Had vacuum switch issues before so I had a spare temp switch, probably good. No change. Borrowed a known good switch from a friend. Nope. Exchanged the actuator as defective. Nope.
Now all I can think of is to follow the Ford/Alldata recommendations of tracing the connection of each wire and all the resistances. Tedious multimeter work. Or cashing in the Dorman actuator and paying double the price for a Motorcraft replacement. Not thrilled with either choice, but spring approaches and "just heat" won't get it anymore.
Anybody ever see an actuator center itself but refuse to do anything else? Hard resets via battery cables no help. No scanner info available like with auto climate.

 

Nope. New Motorcraft motor behaves like the original. It runs the arm all the way to one side and doesn't stop. The only difference between it and the original is the motor hasn't burned itself out yet in the new one. Time to start ohming wires and stop wasting cash on non-returnable parts I guess.

 

Wasn't positive I had a good connection with my meter but I seemed to have no connection in one of the three wires from the motor to switch. So I cut it and installed a jumper wire. Ford motor acted the same way. Other testing turned up nothing. I had borrowed the Dorman motor to swap into the original actuator. For the heck of it I soldered the wires back to the motor so to put the Dorman back together and try it. And it worked. To double check, swapped the new Ford back in, still no. So I reassembled it with the Dorman and it's all good. Non-refundable doubly expensive brand new genuine Ford part now sitting on a workbench. Being useless.

 

 

First assuming you dont have EATC, check the **** on the temp control. They have a propensity to crack and you think you are adjusting the temp and it is just slipping on the control. If the **** is good, fuse is good, actuator good then you likely have a bad temp control potentiometer. If it is EATC possible bad control head.

NOTE it is not good practice today to power up an actuator that is not installed as the pintle can advance to the point that the internal contacts can be damaged and render the actuator useless

 

Could someone send me a video or pics of blend door actuator 2001 Expedition XLT installation directions? Got the part out, ordered the motorcraft replacement from Amazon, but cannot pry it in. Should I trim off the exterior part that turns?

 

I knew I posted somewhere. (#66 above). Damm heater core leaking AGAIN. I have what I hope is a higher quality replacement for it this time.What I really dug this up for is to remind myself which blend door motor I used because THAT surn thing works OK up to maximum heat and then it goes: TAT TAT TAT TAT until you back the temperature **** off a bit. So I take it the motor is trying to overstroke the blend door.
Super annoying stuff to work on. I had to replace the heater core in our old '94 Explorer twice too. The second time I did it in 20 minutes flat. That includes draining and filling the coolant. Last time I did the Expedition it took the better part of a weekend. Two full afternoons of work at least.

 

Finally got around to doing this job and wondered if this thread was still here. I swear it sucks even worse this time. Pulled the nasty leaker out and it's THE SAME darn "Spectra Premium" as I have in the box. I've probably had it too long to return it, Not sure where I bought it from. Rock Auto maybe. Going back together with it. Managed to break one of the "tee" hoses that go to the heater core in TWO places. I think the parts store has repair fittings for the quick connects. I hope, I know they do for GM's. The broken tee I'll scrounge up something for. Back to it. Back in with the box cover on so it should be downhill from here.

 

Stopped cutting down trees long enough to finish this. Oreilly's had a quick connect fitting AND a plastic 5/8" tee. I was surprised and happy. Got it all buttoned back up. No leaks. No freaking warm up front. Also the stupid blend door motor wasn't making that annoying tat-tat-tat-tat noise on full hot. Damn. Poking around under there it appears to have gotten soaked by coolant and is dead. Still had the stupid Ford one that's stuck trying to go full hot all the time and verified that power was being applied to the motor. So I get to get another freaking Dorman motor and replace that again. I am sick of doing things twice on this truck.

 

I managed to put off that actuator replacement until, ahem, November. But I did it. I wonder what the recommended factory way of changing these darn things is? I mean without slightly breaking stuff like I did? And not replacing that awful to reach third screw on the actuator. But the new one works like a charm and doesn't make any overtravel noises like the last one.